Easier to build/rebuilt, easier to matchup and they won't blow out like the older shocks :thumbsup:

+1
The new shocks are brilliant :)

hi,
The B44.1 is longer than B44 (377 for B44.1 and 370 for B44) but whellbase is shorter (B44. 1 276 and B44 280). Wath is different on the car:confused:

There's not a lot on the list that is new moving from V1 to V2. Main differences shocks, Motor Mount, slipper assembly. Comments on the list below.

But do not forgett the Length,and Wheelbase...

4mm shorter WB will propp be amaizing on this car...

I do not think they need to change to much, just little :D

EDIT: 600 retail, often it is half...in the stores :)

TowerHobbies has it listed at $369, and that's their starting point at launch. Cut 10-15% after the first three months of sales and you're at the normal level. My guess is a pretty worldwide retail of $320 by springtime.

And let's not forget that the $$$ will be cheaper by the end of the year!!! :p

I think the price will be around $330 by the end of the year. The B44 will be dumped (just like the B4) and prices will go very low so you could also buy a B44 if you want to save some money. I heard that the motor mount (the "can") is not that good and the rest are just minor updates.

I currently am still driving the B44 with some upgrades (lipo proof) and it still goes like hell!

It remains to be seen how much different the new car will be...let's not forget that a couple of months ago we were saying the same things about the B4.1, that it is not so different to the B4 where in fact is an even better handling car!

Just ordered me some v2 shocks form 'stateside' thats the only upgrade im looking to do

Yuk !!! what an ugly body!
save you money and get a Durango or ZX5 mkII
after seeing the car up close all i can say is whats different!!!
yes u get the excellent new shocks new motor mount which is harder to set than the old one trush me i spent 30 mins trying to get the pinion meshed as the screws push the motor over more when u do them up!!!! all they had to do is make a motor mount disk like the Predator or old xx4 losi type not this crap!!! the car i worked on gave me the shits and i nearly jumped on it...................rubbish motor mount!!!!!!

u get the new rear hubs cool the chassie is the same dont now about the longer wheel base the car i saw was the same
thicker front tower same diffs so not much has changed as for the v2 slipper the first car had the same spring ....
i ran the b44 for two years and i think you can speed your hard earned cash on some thing a bit more developed than this rip off!!!

still want stop them from winning!!!!!!

why dont they narrow the chassie bring every thing closer lighten the drive train not just bring out a clone of the first car!!!

not happy ......i for one have given up on this trash!!!
i think ill what a see what losi or X factory brings out!!!

From Team Associated:

"The transmission ratio is still 2.5, not 2.6. The 2.6 is a typo. The B44.1 still uses the same diff gears, 3914.

As for the wheelbase, it is shorter because the kit setup has the hubs in the forward position. The max wheelbase would be 280mm, the same as the B44.

The length of the B44.1 vs. the B44 is the same. The reason the measurement is 7mm off is the B44.1 was measured from the very tip of the front to the back of the wing.

The newer chassis is the same length as the older one as well as the same width. The servo has been moved more towards the center line as well as there are no more cutouts for motor and batteries.

Hope this clarifies everything.
__________________
Chris Jarosz
Team Associated Customer Support"

The only performance advantage is the Aluminum rear hubs, they have alot more adjustment for the ballstud.

The slipper pads and spring are better.

The CVA's are slightly different for improvement, where the bone goes into the outdrive cup, the bone has been made slightly thinner, this prevents the bone from putting pressure on the diff outdrive when the suspension is compressed. This should help diff gear life. B44 owners can see where the bone gets scratched by the outdrive cup.

The rest of the parts are mostly more conveinence items. Much cheaper to buy the whole the kit then to upgrade everything. And the B44 is discontinued anyway, the B44.1 is the only kit now.

The rest of the parts are basically running updates.

The v2 shocks are easier to build, but the rebuild kit costs more money. You also get the bleeder caps.

The motor mount really isn't much of a difference really. I didn't have any problems with the old mount. Get rid of the aluminum washers, and put some steel Losi ballstud washers in there and locktight the screws and the set screw.

If you run an undertray, the chassis really wont matter to you. You'll like the chassis if you use chassis protectant.

Thicker shock tower is nice, but I've run a cracked standard one for over three months before, so no big deal there.

You get blue aluminum screws for the transmission cases, rear anti-roll bar, lipo tray, the body, well to each his own.

I would have liked to see front shock shafts with 5-40 threads on the end to stop broken shafts.

So the new motor mount ain't that good then?

B44
 

The new motor mount is fine. It just makes it a lot easier access to the screws. I have heard some people complain about it cracking but mine has been fine (so far).

So the b44.1 updated motor mount isnt the same as this then??...
http://www.m-k-racing.com/product_in...oducts_id=7853

It is the same. I bought one so I no longer had to remove the battery posts to tighten the motor screws. Unfortunately I've had two of the central motor cams crack and split in half.

You seem to get one extra hole with the new hubs, however you'd get extra unsprung weight, i'll take the plastic ones any day, at nearly 1/10th the price :)

Main problem with the shock shafts is the machining at the end of the thread, they need to cut a curve between the thread and the rest of the shaft down to the depth of the 4-40 thread. They used to do this but stopped for some reason. I made some 316 SS shafts for my B44 and machined it properly with a 4-40 thread and haven't had any snaps.

There is an "A" top and a "B" top to the aluminum hubs. The "A" top is the standard holes, plus a 4th hole, and the "B" top holes are in between the holes in the "A" top. 8 different ballstud positions.

The motor mount screws are eaiser to get to, but setting the gear mesh is still a chore. I only pull out my motor a couple times a year at best, so its not something that makes a difference to me.