thanks for the answer

I learned to be patient.

KM conversation
 

Hello,

has anybody a good basic setup for the ZX-5 with the KM conversation kit?

thanks

Roman

losi red springs rear
losi blue front
35 rear oil
40 front
basic kit geometry

Thanks!

Okay, so heres the science! Dogbones and universal joint axels spine the wheel at a varying rate if the axles aren't parallel to the ground because the pivot point and engagement point( where the dogbones touch the diff. i.e. the little nubs that stick out.) This makes it so that the rotational force is now trying to make the axles parallel to the ground instead of spinning the wheels. CVD's, or constant velocity drives have the pivot point in the center of rotation. This means that as long as the axle doesn't make a 90 degree bend, it will still spin at the same rate. This causes the suspension to move freely without the axle trying to hold it still. Somebody just needs to come out with cvd's that are easily removed from the diff side so you can have a true cvd.(have two joints on one axle, not one and a dogbone.) JIMMY you should understand this. it's like a four bar link or horst link on a bike. When you pedal the susp. is still free to move. (and braking too)

Schumacher did this with uj's not cvd's, they where telescopic i do believe, their only downfall was they where plastic and broke easily. This is why they switched to blades. HTH

that's what traxxas does. if they were metal they would be insanely heavy. They have to be telescopic. I want to see some cvd joins connected by a carbon telescopic axle. On the cheap.

Hi guys!

I just wondered what setup I should have as a basic. The track I'm going to run at is quite smooth and hard-packed gravel/sand with some bits of carpet in some corners. It is in general a quite small track, with many hairpins and sharp corners.

I just ordered the middle-rear conversion, so I will be trying that.

I thought of Mark Pavidis' setup for the Cactus Classic -06 as a basic, and adjust after. Good idea?

If somebody got any kinds of tips for a good setup, please post it;-)

Andreas=)

ZX5-SP blank set-up sheet
 

Does anybody know where I can get a blank set-up sheet for the ZX5-SP?

If I can get an editable one I'll post up my set-ups here!

Matty, thanks for the link but that is for the ZX5 .... not the ZX5-SP with the revised front end (which is worth every last penny by the way!!!!)

Where can I buy the SP conversion kit from in the UK and what price should I expect to pay? Can't find it in stock.

Look at this one Roger,

http://werkzrc.com/kbuggy/wp-content...setupsheet.pdf



I can download it (open it) but it won't work, no click save, mabey you will have more luck

Thanks mate, I've found that one ... there is also a JPG of it too on the Kbuggy site ... should have posted it up, my bad.

Got the SP to the point I am really happy with it .... now I just have to drive it!!!

Just worked my way back to the KBuggy bit,

http://werkzrc.com/kbuggy/

Looks usefull.

Can you get the "editable" sheet to work ?

Microtech stock it at £65 but currently show out of stock. Give Keith a ring there and find out when it's due back in, shouldn't be long.

DC Racing will get it for you ...... be ordering for me regularly so won't be a problem at all.

I race a KMC converted ZX-5 on a polished wooden floor, still using NiMh at the moment but running a Novak GTB with a 13.5 motor as we race stock.

As of late the handling on my car has gone to pot. Whatever I do I cannot stop the arse end from breaking away constantly. I've tried changing camber links in and out, moved the shocks, rebuilt the shocks, introduced a little kick-up, etc etc, but whatever I do seems to have little or no effect.

Is anyone racing a KMC chassis on a similar surface? If so - do you have a setup to give me a starting point to return to?

It's getting so frustrating I'm considering selling the damn thing!

Current setup:
Shocks 35wt front, 30wt rear.

Pale yellow springs all round.

Front camber link middle hole, washer under knuckle arm. Washer under inner ballstud.

Shocks outer hole on wishbone, middle hole on tower.

Rear camber link middle hole, inner on the hub (alloy). Washers under both ends and hub on middle wishbone pin. Long wheelbase.

2 deg camber on rear, 1.5 deg on front.

10deg castor blocks on front.

I have loads of steering, but the back end is just floating.

Any ideas chaps?

if you have just switched to brushless and it would appear to you that it's all gone bad since you put it in then maybe you should try adjusting the drag brake value i had a similar problem with my RB5. HTH

I do have the drag brake set - but how is this going to affect the car breaking away under acceleration?

I may try it with drag brake switched off and see what that does though. Seems to be more of a suspension / transmission problem.