:thumbsup: viola!
Wish I had thought of that....

And if all else fails - strap a silver can 540 motor in and you won't have enough power to cause your car to misbehave :woot:

not sure if i have read anything about Antisquat. What are you running?

1,2 or 3 degrese?. Less AS for more grip on slippery tracks...

Yep - and why I wrote in an earlier post, "Another typical rookie mistake is their motor choice, as they seem to pick the faster mills and the highest powered batteries all under the auspices of going fast - when in reality it's like giving a kid that just got their driver's license a brand new Ferrari. Facts are, in the greater scheme of RCing and racing, you've still got the training wheels on your bike - and likely would benefit from going to a slower motor/batt combo under the auspices of slowing down to learn proper car control. I've seen very few situations where a car, especially a 4wd car, suffers with traction issues with a "stock" motor and battery type of set-up under the bonnet."

well we can endlessly debate the cause of the problem with the obviously needed sarcasme or :

let's assume the pilot is the current world champion and the car is setup perfect apart from the diff's
and you need to straighten out the diffs in a similar case
how would you handle it ?
starting with tight/loose front/rear... ? adjusting the back/front tighter/losser ?

From my limited experience I'd agree with the comments made with respect to throttle

I thought I had the same problem with the asse of my Durango when I kept loosing it out of bends

Then i did a four hr endurance race indoors on a very slippy track - you simply had to be gentle on throttle or u end up facing the other way !

From that race I learnt throttle control - no more loose asse end Durango!

Just my opinion but set up dosnt seem anywhere Nr as important as driving - give a top driver a poorly set up car they will still be fast

Slow is fast - it's the future I've tasted it:thumbsup:

This also makes me wonder just what kind of tyres he's running, if they're the kit tires or how they compare to what everyone else is running (especially the fast guys he's so enamored with), and/or if they're just worn out....or if he's bothered doing any tire testing/tuning at all???

It's always funny that the "world champs," using your example, can be given ANY car - regardless of condition - and manage to get it around the track just fine....... even outrunning the newbie who they've given the controller of the world champs car.

1) tighter, looser has already been addressed
2) I'd rebuild them, so at least you'd know you were going from nice clean rebuilt diffs instead of the no-telling crunchiness you've likely got going!

Woo-Hoo.............at least somebody's gotten the memo :drool:

well then why bother setting up the car properly... any wrong setting will do then right ?

What is your fixation with the diffs? Providing yours are not locked solid, crunchy, or slipping like a b*tch I'd leave them alone and look more towards your tyres and suspension setup first.

Perhaps - just for a moment - consider that you're not an expert driver and that your car is okay as it is and that you may, just a little, have to refine your driving style...........

And now I try to give you honest advice you still accuse me of being sarcastic!!

Now you're being sarcasitic, but, since you asked.....

It'll do for a "good" driver, because they've got skills.
It won't do for a "rookie," as they've really got no skills.

well if the expienced drivers on the track tell me to sort out the diff's
i do it, understanding how it works might help...
and i like my car to be setup good, not "it'l do"
i'm sure it won't hurt...

Because that'd be the answer he doesn't want to hear, and hasn't listened to - as it's been said about a half dozen times now.

This points to your inexperience. You cannot have a car that is setup perfectly "apart from the diffs". The suspension and transmission need to work together - change your diff settings and you'll probably have to adjust your suspension settings.

You need to look at the whole package - including your driving style.



You're not Stampy with a dictionary are you?

So did you "sort them out" - or as I suggested earlier, as in "rebuild them" - or are you intent on solving it by staring at the car???

Now you're suggesting a level of expertise, and actually knowing the difference, that just doesn't ring clear with what you've said so far.




I gave you a whole list of things it "could" be earlier, and you've yet to address a single one....so if you're going to ignore what you don't want to hear, what makes you think people are going to keep trying to help if you're not listening?

:thumbsup: exactly

i plan to rebuild them
knowing where to start tweaking them might help

Then get started, I don't know what you're waiting for, no "tweaking" is neccessary.



As Hog suggested earlier, you're fixated on the diffs - and while your excuse is that people at the track have suggested you sort them out, you haven't. And in the meantime people here, where you're asking your question, have offered up what else it could be. So my advice from here you might take the time and go back and answer some of the other queries people have offered, instead of ignoring them, as there are likely a dozen other items that might well be addressed. :)
As Hog also alluded to earlier, "hoping someone can wave the magic wand to your problem" is like asking for "tweaks" - so until you get the car, and your driving technique, full sorted you're just chasing your tail....

Re build the diffs and set them to what is suggested in the manual and then next time you are at the track get one of the expirenced drivers to check them over.