I am only charging at 1C at the moment even though the charger is capable of doing more. Some of the newer packs state they can be charged up to 5C by the manufacturer without issues and for a 5000mah pack that would 25A and the only charger to get near that is the Hyperion 0720. I just find that some people are buying chargers based on C ratings but are not actually realising that they cannot charge their super capacity Lipo packs as the max the charger can do means that they can only charge below 1C. I think that there is also a big difference in the balancer circuits of some of the better chargers which can help decrease the charge time no matter what the charge rate.

I was an R/C dad not so long ago, Grelland, and I understand. Paul and I started with NiMh 2000 packs and only had one charger to start with. It ran continuously, and the one-charger thing did not last long...

30-A Rivergate power supply and two Novak Millenniums could barely keep up with it. The Rivergate ran the comm lathe, a fan large enough to cool two charging packs, and a dyno too. It was Paul's power supply until it finally died about six months ago. We bought it used and it worked its wazoo off for us for more than 10 years. Think I paid $75. What a bargain!

If we had had LiPo & brushless, I would have had more time to go get lunch!

you see, and still you designed a car where you can't change the batteries ;)

get a life, i can change my lipo in mu x6 sq in under a minute!!
try using ur brain for a solution, not to create a problem:thumbdown:

are we being grumpy today? :)

btw, I do have a life; a great one even :)

short update from the guy without a life....

I bought a pair of b44 straps, and found a pair of standoffs in my 12th scale parts bin, and came up with this solution:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m68/grelland/x6.jpg
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...lland/x6-2.jpg
I realise it is not optimal, with two straps vs one, but at least it clears the body.

Maybe I will draw up a one-piece cf board and have fibre-lyte make a couple, but then I would place the posts further back, to free up more real estate for the electronics. As long as I am running the low-profile servo, I am fine, though.

Mine looks like this. Front posts in the corners, and the rear in the original place.

http://www.hottuna.at/wp-content/upl...2/dsc_7241.jpg

excactly what I was thinking :)

guess it was not just me then... ;)

Did you dremel that one out, or do you have a drawing?

Roy

I wonder if we can have our original "DMS" X6 Carbon strap modified??? I will look into this.......

NOW we are talking :) Keep us posted

I did say we will see ;)

I love seeing the family stepping up, modding stuff, and working on better ways to do things. I always wanted those forward posts to be more centered in the car, but they ended up on the outside of the car because that was the only way to fit a GTB in the 'side pods' of the buggy chassis. LRP, Tekin, all the other speedos would fit fine, but Novak's popular enough we didn't want to cause issues. That is also the reason the chassis rails along the two-cell area are only 'half-height'. Of course now we're all running LiPo with the ESC in the center, but back in 2008 that wasn't the case.

EDIT: By the way, rock crawlers tend to have a bunch of various-length aluminum stand-offs, they work great for small projects and mods.

About time to design a new chassis then ;)

Maybe two saddle packs?

BTW, I noticed one thing while fiddling with this and some body issues, I have, and that was the fact that the "old" X6 and squared chassises are not the same shape in the rear corners. I used an X6 shell on my squared chassis, and saw that they dont have the same curvature in the rear. Are the shells different also? Was this intentional?

Roy

The body is the same bottom outline from the standard to the squared. Only the window frames, the top rear line, and the side scoops changed, really. The lexan is pulled from the same mold, I know that.

The lines of the chassis where the front of the rear arms mount changed to help prevent rubbing of the new 'straight' arms on the chassis. The original X - 6 rear arms had a small molding bump on the front along the hinge pin to help move them back and clear the chassis, which was straight. Through running the 6 pretty much the whole team liked running arms and hubs forward, so I made it so the Squared arms could move even a touch more along the hinge pin.

The outer rear corner (where the lower rear body rubs ever so slightly) is a touch further back... that change doesn't have any specific reason, just the way I ended up drawing the chassis.

Thanks as always, for taking time to answer these kinds of questions :)

I measured on the chassis, then marked it out on masking tape placed on the CF, then happy dremeling :thumbsup:

Here's a jpg of our strap used on standard X6, photo's on profile page, much the same as hottuna's. ( A as used, B cheap version)

Printed from original drawing onto large sticky label, stuck onto delrin sheet and cutout, liked it so much had carbon one made cos it would look nicer !

Allows stick & saddle lipo, now has thumb screws. (we may have adjusted some of the dimensions/hole sizes, cannot remember)

great, do you mind if I use this and have some made, or is it copyrighted?

If I were you I would make a mockup from cardboard, check all the sizes etc, holes for thumbscrews/pins will be different, then you can do what you like with it, it worked for us - and there was nothing else at the time.

I had one made by http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/

Have fun

i think its rubbish too and i use tape from my touring car just rap it round 3 times :thumbsup: