i have a feeling that there will be 2 rb5 mids running there ;)

Maybe 3 ;) (although one might not be one of FABs)

That said to be fair on high grip carpet I'm not sure the mid motored car will have any advantage over the rear motored one, in fact might be easier to get the rear motored standard car to pivot

I really want to attend the race.. but visiting the BRCA series and the GP in Vienna got a higher priority this time round.

In sweden we use Schumacher's mini-pin yellow and mini-spike yellow, worn or cut down to slicks with addative and reasonably high-grip carpets. Thought I'd share my default indoor setup with you guys:

Front:
AE 35WT 3B, positioned middle on tower and outer in a-arm
Light yellow spring
Turnbuckle in the inner position (c-hub and bulkhead), 1mm spacer on bulkhead
25 degrees kickup with the thin spacer
GHEA brass bulkhead (35 grams)
Axle spacer outer
No bumpsteer-spacer
Short wheelbase
Proline M3 4-rib

Rear:
AE 30WT 3B, positioned middle on tower and inner in a-arm
Light yellow spring
Turnbuckle positioned middle in the inner mount and the outer hole on the hub, 2mm spacer in both ends.
SP standard spacers under a-arm mounts
Hub in middle position
Narrow blast wing, 7 degrees angle
Schumacher Mini-spike

30 grams positioned in the middle of the chassis (20 by the receiver and 10 by the ESC)
Total car weight 1498 grams

The car is really smooth, just ease up on the oil if you want more response. Set camber dependant on grip levels, I used 2 degrees all round at the last meeting.

Hi Per Erik

Additive isn't allowed in the UK, we usually run new tyres, or only part worn ones.

Roger, I totally disagree, I ran the Mid indoors in september and it was really really quick.

Lowie, sorry there definately will not be any kits for the Petit. Let's say that the i'm a little stuck due to something else at the moment, but there WILL be a kit for sure before the outdoors season.

Cool Fabs, must mean you have your conversion more or less spot on the money :D
From what Niggs has told me it is a bit special ;)

When ever I've seen mid motor cars running on carpet they haven't had an advantage over the rear motor cars.

woop woop all booked in guys Team Custom Blitz is coming to petit see ya there guys :thumbsup:

Wicked looking forward to meeting everyone.. Will I be allowed in the Kyosho area ;)

Cat SX and RC10 B4 :p

Kind of have yeah.

Well I beg to differ but i've hardly ever raced on carpet. However I feel much more at home with my mid than I've ever felt with the standard RB5, or the B4.

As long as you sort your nuts out for this event!! :woot: Lol!

:cry:

Looking forward to seeing it go Fabs, only heard good things but still yet to see it run!

Until the wheel nuts fall off...

you must check ya nuts more and keep tweeking them fabs :lol::woot::thumbsup:

I've had lots of wheel nut failures on the K' cars for some reason!! Now I replace them every few meetings and even then I have put some thread lock on the stub axles and let it cure.

I think this is true of every car running M4 wheel nuts and explains why the american cars use such a course pitch on the wheel nut threads. Certainly nothing wrong with Kyoshos tolerencing, checked the axles thread detail after my 2nd failure and they are if anything a little large on core diameter.

Have a look on Ebay for M4 flanged nuts, can be had fairly cheaply.

Loose wheel nuts :(

until Petite i have not run an buggy but i have been running the touring cars with same M4 nuts.
I never had a Kyosho nut come loose ever until we started using new Nylon Sweep wheels. Every body at my club had wheels flying off during racing. My wheels did undo but never flew off. We just changed to locking nuts and the problem was cured, or you could do as roger mentioned use some threadlock.

Ive never had a wheel nut come off, yes ive snapped the uj but never had a nut come loose. The nylon nuts are what i use as the others arent as good. If your still loosing them then there is a vibration coming from somewhere, possibly a bent uj, worn diff outdrives or worn out bearings.

The other alternative that i did do on my trf501x as per taking note of issues people were having was to drill a pinion gear allen screw hole into the m4 nut side and file a flat spot on the uj and lock the grub screw through the nut into the uj groove and it will not come off. Worked perfectly.

Fabs was using the Core RC wheel nuts.. the lightweight ones, not nylocs..

They have a surrated flat so when tightened against the wheel they shouldnt come loose.. i ran them on the pred with no issues..

Im just using kit M4 nylocs on my K cars and had no problems as yet.

Nick
:thumbsup:

Well,

Started building my FS last night. I always find the building party the most enjoyable, its the racing part that lets me down.
SO far everything seems very nice and easy, I filed the tabs on the chassis flat to accept the Lipos i got. 6000 mah Team Orion, they are real big I was worried they might be too tall for the body but i eyed it up and they seem ok.
Any tips any one can offer?

I think these are the same lipos that fab has used.. ???

If so he has used different posts and carbon or alloy straps to hold the lipos in..

On mine i have the corally 4200 35c saddles.. i have like you filed the tabs from the chassis.. I still use the standard battery posts and straps..

If you have a look in the kit you get im sure 2 different heights of posts, ive used the taller ones ( i may have had some spares as well though from te RB5 kit..) Then to lift the posts up ive cut the square piece of the bottom of the shorter posts so they still fit in the cut out on the chassis, then use a longer machine hex headed screw to pass through the spacer into the longer post.

Im happy with the way it works and it still looks factory :thumbsup:

I may have a pic somewhere if you want me to find it?

Nick

I use the little black 1mm washers they fit in the post hole nice and snug.