Yep pretty poor. I don't see what's the benefit of the new caps other then the mounting to the tower is a little neater. The top ball joint is very difficult to push on too. I'm tempted to fit the old style standoffs and aluminium bleeder caps.

I'm very pleased with the kit other then the caps.

I really don't see the problem here at all ?

With the older style if you wanted emulsion type shocks you had no choice but to buy £20 worth of Alloy Bleeder Caps

Now you have the option in the kit, all you have to do is to drill this small hole !:p

The kit should have included the small screw and seal though.

So buy some screws and seals, or the old style alloy bleeder caps and top shock fixings :thumbsup:

I had some spares luckily. :)

ran my kd yesterday at yorcc,first time out and my first ever schumacher 2wd that i've ever raced in 33 years in the hobby.i haven't smiled as much in a long time.so much rear grip and very easy to drive fast.loving it.

My KD also saw its first wet outing at TORCH. I was very impressed, very easy to drive and felt quick for me.

Jumping seem to been more tricky though, front end was always too high.

mine seemed ok on jumps,mounted speedo and receiver as far forward as possible.

RE shock caps, you only need to drill a 1.6mm hole and fit a 2.5mm screw

Ok maybe I will give this a try. It was however a windy day blowing head on towards the jump, I reduced the Gurney strip on the wing which helped a bit.

I think the new shock caps are excellent, an improvement over the alloy ones. The alloy ones would wear and get a bit of play in them, the plastic ones are a tighter fit, and shouldn't wear as much. If they do, they're a cheaper replacement. They seem just as strong, and judging by the effort to put them on, and the number of crashes I had at the weekend, they won't be popping off. Once fitted to the ball stud, the hole in the shock cap can be used to take shocks off for rebuilding, to limit the number of times you pop them on and off. Also, with them having the optional bleeder holes, they are multi functional, sealed or vented depending on if you drill them or not, so more options covered in the kit :)

Hi Dave
This is because the wing is further back than the kf/ kf2 as well as most 2wd's, you just need to cut it down a bit more than you usually would. Also I found racing mine yesterday that it needs some weight up front, 10g under the se go will help

Alex

The KD has the weight much further back than we could ever get with the KF2 which is great when the grip is very low. It's going to mean the front end will pop up more though. If your adding much weight the front, might be time to get the KC out.

So, you reckon the KD is a viable option in the UK on astro?

KD - SV2
 

Does anyone know if the KD gear diff will fit the SV2?

I don't think it will as standard; I believe the KD gear diff is the same as the KVR and SVR before that, and both are too wide for the gearbox housing...

That said, if you are handy with a dremel it is just about possible, although still very tricky to get a KVR/SVR gear diff to fit a SV2 gearbox having done it:thumbsup:

Not for the faint hearted either, and easy to make the components scrap as it is very marginal.

Yes. Im very impressed with my KD on very slippery astro. Plenty of front and rear traction and easy to drive too. First signs of damp running with the KC I then swap to the KD.

Ran mine at Worksop, which many run the kf/kc, moved the battery full forward, brass weight in front of chassis, stiffer rear oil, from wet astro set up, (400) rear was licked in and bit of understeer but extremely safe, and had my best 2wd result for ages there.

To me many club drivers will find this a far easier safer car to drive. May not be the quickest in fast hands, more time will get it even better, but now my damp car for astro

Plenty of steering running silver darts up front :thumbsup: