right you dirty buggers LOL, will a fret saw require any super blades?

more pics
 

hi richard, any chance of getting a few pics of how you mounted the rear shock tower and what part syou were able to purchase and what you had to make? i'm really interested in trying this out myself. thanks a lot! really cool project, have you driven it yet? how far off is the setup from the standard chassis? thanks again!

adam

Hey Rich,
how does it drive?

got any more pics Rich?

I only got chance to put a couple of packs though it before I had a bod moment and broke a wishbone, I didn't bring a spare (doh!) so ended up running the CR for the rest of the night.

From what I could gather the turn-in felt very positive, but I had quite a bit of understeer. It's looking like I'm going to have to cut a hole in the t-plate for the gearbox to drop down into so I can lower the inner camberlink ballstud. The back end was colapsing under acceleration almost to the point of lifting the inside front wheel, so obviously there isn't enough roll stiffness at the back as it is.

One disadvantage I've found of running the gearbox the wrong way is it loosens your slipper off through each run :p

oh, How did you sort out your layshaft matey? Did you reverse it?

I think I may just make a carbon fibre chasis, shock towers and and play with the layout, but leave the tranny

Rich, would be be possible to stick another nut on the layshaft to stop it loosening off ?

or if you can get a trust washer on before the nut, that would sort it!

genius

Losi 'short neck' ball studs allow you to lower the stud a mm or so. I guess you'd need more than that.

2 nuts! 1 nut is not enough! :D (on the slipper shaft)

You did reverse the diff, right? The screw has to remain on the .. .ermmm... *think think* right hand side!

No it wouldn't. Think about it for a second....

the nut loosens because of it's own weight, not because of a rotational force from the slipper plate or spring or something.

I think I'm going to try 2 nuts :o to start with, it's impressive though how the tiny nyloc nut backs itself off purely through it's inertia. I'm going to have to do a Mk2 version with lower and reversed gearbox.

Ben, are you going to Batley this Sunday? If you are could you sort me out with one of those little moulded pieces you made to reverse the gearbox on you car please?

Elvo, the lowered ballstuds won't be enough I don't think, I'm talking about 3-4mm to bring it back to the same height relative to the wishbone as the B4 :o

I will do mate, I only live a few minutes walk LOL. What time is it from and till? Iw ill pop down with me camera, and take some snappies, and I'll bring my modifed B4 for you to look at LOL.

And ofcourse I will sort you owt with one of those spacers, its not technical, but its practical LOL.

PM rich;)

Richard, you can use the old U-brace it'll give you another 2mm



Elvo (lol)

It is the old brace ;)

Grind it! :o :D

G

Go to bed, guys!

yeah but that's only 1mm

hahahah PMSL;)

Blimey! the spring does not move because only the spur moves/slips and that slips on the pads... (scrap the TW idea - I was thinking of the hydra drive!)

surely it does not back off due to inertia? SURELY not??

if it does.. wow....

Alu Loc-Nut then! :D