My dex210 kit was missing the thrust bearings for the diff when building the kit and I had reliability issues with the diff after running it a few times. The clutch pads didn't last long either. I have replaced the standard diff with a geared diff and use associated slipper pads and all seems fine now. It's not an expensive car to buy and parts are reasonably priced so i am happy. I haven't broke it once either. I can certainly see the points made regarding the specification compared to the 4wd and I would of paid extra for a higher spec kit.

Well just spent £14 on 2 parts trees with new oring nuts and one is showing signs of leaking. What a waste of money, this wouldn't happen with the alloy ones. Not happy in the very slightest. It's a complete joke, if this is the way Durango is going they can stick any future cars I've had enough! :thumbdown:

Where are they leaking? The orings should stop leaking or am I missing something?

Why did you spend £14 on plastic oring nuts when the RRP of the alloy ones is £12?

I couldn't find stock anywhere of the alloy ones so my hands were tide. They are leaking from what appears to be between the nut and the washer that sits inside. The orings are fine so I've had enough, it'll get ran for a season and sold.

If the orings are pressed against the body, and pressed against the shaft ------ where is the oil possibly coming from?

Have you checked there's no deep scratches inside the body or on the shaft ? or even a cut on the outside of one of the orings?

I don't think I've ever used the plastic caps myself but I have some on my new shocks I'm building. If the orings aren't getting compressed enough then I guess that could cause some leaking - why not try a thin washer between the centre plastic spacer and the last oring (or either way round) to press on the orings a little more and ensure they're engaging the body and shaft properly.

The alloy caps are in stock at Team Durango.

http://www.team-durango.com/part-inf...artNo=TD330023

FYI, I've never had any problems with either the plastic or the metal caps.

At £6 delivery I'll wait until MB have them. I suspect with the plastic caps you can't compress them enough. The plastic caps are without doubt the most moronic cost cutting rhing TD could ever do. The 410R had cost cutting that didn't affect the performance and in some cases made it better. This is just stupidity if its not broke leave it alone!

I just had a quick look with some digital calipers and a bit of macro photography - and the plastic caps I think press the seals better. The plastic cap on the body is approximately 0.1mm shorter overall than with the metal cap.

http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/misc/...dshockcaps.jpg

Like I said though - if you're finding the shocks leaking there's got to be a cause and the most obvious other than damage (which I'm sure you've checked for) would be the seals not getting enough pressure - adding a 0.5mm plastic washer or similar should help matters. I don't think the plastic caps are a problem - but like I say, I've not used them myself yet.

Now I'm going the have to spend another £14 to get the alloy ones when a retailer does have them. I guess I'll be lining TD pockets yet again. :thumbdown:

That doesn't take into the account that the plastic could be forced out by the pressure of the orings behind it which would allow them to leak alloy caps wouldn't.

I've got lots of bits here so I don't mind jabbing a screw driver into my shock to test your theory - with the last spacer (that sits inside the cap) in place. I have to say it's an interesting idea but having just forced a driver against it I don't see that being a realistic possibility. Just my personal observation and opinion.

I am worried that you're wanting alloy caps believing they will fix your issue when they might not.

The plastic caps aren't a moronic idea. They replace an over engineered part with something that performs the same job at a fraction of the price.
If one of your shocks are leaking there's probably an issue elsewhere. The red alloy caps won't fix the issue as jimmy mentions they are actually a little shorter but the internals are the same. Might be worth having someone else look over your shocks.

Plastic hexes. I've just replaced mine after a year of running. They had worn but I guess a year of running is ok?

Shock stand-offs. The all metal ones aren't cheap and if you are getting the screw version to flex then they can't be done up properly.

The 2wd market is the most cost conscious around, it's what most people getting into buggy racing start with due to low start up costs and running costs. We trimmed off cost to the end customer without affecting performance. Giving the customer cash in his pocket to upgrade as he chooses.

Adding CF, Ti and custom alloy parts adds a surprising amount to kits. Usually too much for us to justify. The 410 was an exception, one which worked at the time due to its originality. But the model isn't the same for all classes.

The manual was a little rushed but we try and catch with online versions.

If you are still having issues with your shocks try getting hold of one of the team and get them to check them over. It's unrest to have a 2nd pair of eyes look them over.

Just a heads up though guys, if you think that compressing an o-ring will make them seal better, they won't, they will spread and start to become unseated, they work best just touching the surface, unless you have square profile o-rings, but in all my years of engineering, I have never found squishing an o-ring to make it seal better, it only makes it leak worse.

DCM just what I was thinking probably overtightened I run with the plastic caps and if I find a leak its always from the top because I have over tightened the caps!

I don't think you'd say a floating o-ring that barely touches the sides does a good job of sealing would you Steve? If they aren't held firmly in place they won't seal too well don't you think. :lol:

Thinking somethings inferior and is going to leak even before building it - then stripping them out whilst building, would suggest there's been some serious cranking down on these plastic parts. Finger tight!

I dont think you can over tighten them, the cap tops touch the shock body so they will strip. That means you can't over compress the orings unless either the plastic spacers are too big or the bottom of the shock body isn't deep enough where the orings sit.

What's definitely making me think its the caps is the rest are looking a little wet, they're starting to leak not anywhere near as bad.

I build them the same way as my 410 shocks they don't leak.

I've not had any problems with either the the plastic or alu versions. However, I aways grease the 'O' rings with AE green slime, or similar, when I build them. If I forget, then I get leakage.

I can't believe so much talk on o rings and shock caps!

AE use plastic shock caps and these work just fine as do the Durango ones, don't see too many people complaining about these shocks.

Like anything if you over tighten plastic to metal you run the danger of it stripping.

Also any shock on a Rc car if you don't grease the shaft (shock shaft! Lol) it'll damage the O rings.

It's all simple stuff!