my 22 has a lot of bump steer haw can i get rid of it ?

What c hubs are you useing? With 10* you need a 2mm spacer, with 5* you need none, with 0* or 3* your on your own, I don't think you can help it

Cool!

One important note, you need to be an adaptive driver. It's very different to drive than a midmotor, but just as fast if not faster when you adapt to it.

I i race both 2 and 4 in the same day, when my 22 was mod I really strugled spun it round to rear now find the car amazing. (Any on unsure of rear should have seen gnarlyold dog go at Faversham on grass in the rain!!!!)

Thanks I am runing 5* . I take it it is the spacer on the hub steering arm yes ?

Bump Steer will also be affected by what kick-angle you are running.
I run 25 deg Kick with 5 deg blocks and no washers on the steering arm and have pretty much zero bump steer.

But if I use the taper 20 deg kick wedge, then I can get massive bump steer.

The other thing that can affect it is the axle height - i.e. what shims you run above and below the c-hub.

Try to visualise what is happening to the height of the outer steering ball joint when you either change the caster angle, kick angle or axle height. It is this height change that is causing the bump steer.

Once you visualise it, it is easier to figure out what needs to change in order to reduce / remove the bump steer.
HTH

I haven't really gotten to grips with this yet:-P

I've read a lot about people asking how to get less bumpsteer, but none with a good reason to why they want less. In theory more bumpsteer will give me less steering midcorner when the car rolls, right? In my head that means I can have an aggressive setup with a lot of reaction, but it will calm down and stabilize mid-corner. Or am I far off :-P ?

I've run 2mm shims as per manual all year with 25/5, this gives me quite a significant amount of bumpsteer, doesn't it? *Don't have the car with me to check... :P* I guess the affects of adding and removing shims will be the next on my list to figure out...

Just got a new indoor track, 150 tons of clay laid down in a warm, big building. Yay!!

No, I don't think you are far off at all Martin.
My own opinion (for what its worth) is that bumpsteer can be a useful tuning aid but to what extent depends on the track surface. If the surface is smooth then adding bump out can as you say calm the car during corner roll but if your track is bumpy and you find your wheels moving up and down independently of each other (like most UK tracks), then any bump steer can make the car feel more vague along the straights.

Old habits die hard - I tend to set my cars up with next to zero bump steer and then leave them - although I can understand the calming nature I've never given it a real go myself.

As for your new track with 150 tons of dirt - you lucky sod. Make sure you make good use of it:thumbsup:

I am running 5* with 25 kick and I have 1 mm spacer there is not a lot of bump steer now I would run it with no spacers but as a am running with no spacers in the front shox I dont won't the thred rubbing a holl in my front arms .

I was alwas under the inpreshion that bump steer was dad As on ruff trax I run on can make the car do all types of made things on the straight

Do any of you no if the 6000mah saddle batteries fit under the standard shell on the losi 22 as I have my shell being painted and have no way of telling at the mo but as they look very hi

Forgive my ignorance- but what you guys have just been discussing sounds like the issue I have:

Mid corner i dont seem to have enough steering- it is almost like the wheels are not managing full steering lock.

Is this because of 'bumpsteer' and if so how do i get rid of it?

The issue occurs with any servo i put in the car. So i know it isn't a problem there.

The car is standard btw

Cheers

Adz

Adz,
IMO bumpsteer is unlikely to be the cause of your issue. You can check however simply by looking down at the front wheel from above and seeing if it alters from toe-in to toe-out at all during suspension compression. if it does, then you have bump steer - although I still reckon that is unlikely to be highly noticeable on-track.

From what you describe, it sounds as if you are not achieving full lock. The 22 can be quite sensitive to overall travel available on your Tx and indeed, I find the low profile servo is more fussy than a normal profile one.
I have to set my travel limits on my radio at 150% travel - at 100% they would not achieve full lock.

What Tx and what servo are you running? I reckon this issue is more likely to be a lack of overall travel setting on your Tx - but as I said, a low profile servo can exaggerate the problem further.

Adam, I think you need to look at your camber link on the front, also, as you seen on Friday night, it can have a massive affect on camber change, which will also affect steering change.

I found the easiest thing to do was run tyres that gave more mid corner.... cut staggers.

Hi Gnarly,

I think you might be on to something. Increased the steering rate to max (120%) and it seems to improve the turning circle. But that was only in the kitchen!

I will give it try at the next club meeting and see how it goes. Cheers for the heads up!

It may also be partly a steering link issue- I will try a few things if this fix doesn't improve it enough.

Cheers

Adz

Anyone there anyone at EOS - Tomelilla (sweden) and have a good set up for
the losi on a slippery hard packed clay track?

OneKiwi.. my jconcept setup is a perfect starter..

from petitrc.

Was running my car on the weekend and it was grate apart from I need more steering and when ever I hit a jump it goes into a massive nose dive is there any way of sorting this out was running on carpet with mini pins on rear and mini spikes on the front

1 thing you could try before changing things is accelerating in the air that should left the nose while in the air...

Yes bin doing that dos nothing none of my 1/8th cars our my 4x4 1/10 bo it

Hi all having a bit of a problem with my diff bilt it from new smooth as silk then one run and ruff as hel reybilt it and still ruff help