Does anybody know when the #54028 shock set is due to be released to the hungry public?

I just made a new top part for the 3Racing rear shock, raised it by 5mm and works a treat for ride height and the driveshaft

I agree it's the tower.

I still got plenty of droop, I can now use the spring collars to adjust ride height and my driveshafts aren't going to pop out lol

Well I finally got to give mine a couple of runs on the weekend at my local track and I have to say I was super impressed :thumbsup:

As I ran a 501x in 4wd last year I was able to directly compare them on the same track. I used my 501x shocks too so the cars set-up was as close as possible to my 501.

The car was far easier to drive than my 501x and seemed to have a little more on-power steering, but a little less turn-in (this was with the diff up front). It also jumped a lot better than the 501, both landing flatter and being more consistant.

For its first runs it was awesome :)

Next step is to try it with the over-drive front diff like the 501x and see how that goes.

I used mine this weekend in anger. 3Racing front and rear tower, with a home made top part to raise the top of the shocks to reduce droop and also allow ride height adjustment. The track was a carpet track, big table top and two jumps which could be doubled.

After stopping worrying about snapping the chassis, the car did the double every time faultlessly (except for the occaisional interference of the numpty at the sticks) and cleared the table top every time. And this car took some serious tumbles and abuse. But it just came back for more each time!

Handling wise, I found no need at all to go for a one-way or even think it might need it, the car was turning in sharp and hard and keeping tight on the exit. What an awesome car!

hang on hang on what was your 4wd steve? not the durga?

yeap, durga dude.... the dirk diggle, 70's porn star rc car.... you could buy that car if you stopped redbull for one week Chris!! heehee

holy crap magga respect to the car, i thought it was the all blue blinged up Huppo Euro car that Beslten had.

Well cool car, if any one is thinking about getting one i would pc DCM about the shocks and twoers he has on there and go get one. no need for a one way honest it had lots of on power roatation with out it.

Wow steve i still cant belive it

thought you would be impressed dude!

you know i just spend my luch break looking on ebay for one lol

but i realy dont want to get bk into racing

only doing the mirco x things coz the stuff is sat at Hs

you seen the air time mine was getting dude, cheap enough to sit round and not be used for weeks on end..... heehee

According to this link the forthcoming #54028 dampers are also compatible with the DF-03 chassis. Does this mean that they are just the same dampers with a different part number? Why can't Tamiya just release stuff instead of tempting us with just enough info to be useless!:mad:

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=54028

TRF Dampers
 

Maybe you should wait for them to release the shocks rather than spectulate . I think they will be similar to the 501X shocks, not the DF03 option shocks you are thinking about. If you have a look at the setup sheet that comes with the DB-01 Durga there is a illustration of aftermarket shocks with caps similar to the 501X.

Patience is a virtue.

I gave up on patience and built the 501X shocks from spares instead lol

But, I don't wanna wait, I need them nowwwww. And they say it's just the kids of today who want everything straightaway, don't you believe it mate,LOL.

just been watching a vid of one of my races from the weekend, and all the cars were slapping chassis's after the jumps and mine was no different, looked as good as the B44's out there.

That's cos it IS as good as anything out there - at least in terms of sheer performance with a couple of upgrades.

I think I've done 6 meetings with the durga now - at batley on sunday I didn't change anything from the previous outing at Worksop where I'd done a few things to get the car to turn on the weird surface - mainly limiting the rear shocks.
The car was pants at batley - the rear was really really loose and I was struggling. it got better as the day went on, mainly from adjusting my driving style but also laying down the rear shocks to their inner most on the tower. I think a bit more droop would have helped at Batley as Mike West pointed out - but I was too lazy to redo the rear shocks and remove some limiters ;)

By the end the car was awesome of course - I got the fastest laps in my last qualifier and got some of the fastest laps in my final, but made a few too many mistakes on the challenging track.

I had a problem with the rear diff at this meeting. I couldn't clear the double jump even though I had the power and the slipper was fairly tight. The rear diff felt GOOD but I gave the car some power with the car in my lap and the rear diff spun like it was totally loose (which it wasn't).
I took it apart - which is a bugger of a job if I'm honest since I still had the kit screws in the car (now replaced) and noticed one of the diff plates had come unglued from the plastic holder. No ammount of tightening would stop the diff spinning - so if you have any problems at all with the differentials it's worth checking the plates are securely attached otherwise they'll just spin.

I replaced the diff with a 501X diff and it was loads better (will rebuild the kit diff later).

The rear belt looked to have very slightly rounded teeth - whilst the front looked perfect still. I also noticed a little collection of rubber around the centre bulkhead - so I assume the rear belt might be rubbing slightly tho I've not had time to check it out yet.

Another thing I noticed was an increase in 'slop' particularly around the inner hinge pins front and rear. I'm assuming the plastic balls have worn slightly and I could probably do with adding some shims in there.
Peter Moss brought his brand spanker Durga to Batley and was using some touring car flourine coated balls for the hinge pins - which sound ideal for the plastic mounts, better than putting harsher steel ones in from the 501X maybe?

Anyway I've rattled on a bit - the bottom line is the car was ace. It might be getting retired soon when my 501X gets rebuilt, but I've really enjoyed racing it and won't be selling it.

i notice that the diameter of the 501xWE front rim is 1mm bigger than the durga front rim.

why is that so? any difference in performance?

Were are you measuring this from.??? the outer edge or in the inner portion next to the ribs:eh?:

outer edge.

the diameter or should i say circumference, when you put
the 2 rims together

Hmmm I`ll have to get my calipers out and check this out..;)

I don't know about the 501Xwe but I thought the new rims were all the same (smaller) size. The reason the rims were made slightly smaller (not quite 1 mm!) is because they were oversized and illegal at IFMAR races.
If your 501X WE came with larger front wheels then I'm surprised by that - the new wheels are much better - they have a much tighter hex to prevent stripping out

There are new rims and old rims? What are the part numbers?

just order the rims for the DB-01

I think there are a couple of things going on here.

One is that I think the rear belt will rub a fair bit on the slipper plates if it is a bit slack (I have tightened my rear belt by one notch since the build and it is a lot better now). You can probably see the big black lines all over it.

Two is that I don't totally trust the small bits of screw that stick through the centre bulkhead and into the general area of the belts. I filed my screws down for this very reason.

I also share your general distrust of the kit diff halves. Seem fine on the bench but can then show signs of slipping during the race, will probably have to add some 501X diff halves to my next parts order.

i don't have a 501 but i was comparing it at the shop. both the white and yellow 501 front rims are slightly bigger than the black and white durga front rims. the rear rims are the same. strange to me too.....:eh?:

Has anyone got a gear ratio for a Checkpoint Money Motor, outdoors?

If it is any help I was running a Blue Atlas 19T on a 19 pinion , medium sized indoor tracks. 20 pinion felt overgeared to me.

Thanks, it's a starting point.
I stuffed a 20T in there earlier (after waiting at least 30 seconds for a reply:woot:) so I'll see how it goes on Sunday.

Toonz,
Did you take part in the TAC qualifier Singapore pre-tune up race? How did you guys get around the 17T pinion problem?

yes i took part in the pre tune up and there were 4 durga and 3 darkimpact.

2 durga were running at 17t BUT the other 2 were not (you can PM me if you want to know more regarding this point). the DI were geared accordingly to their preference and were fast on the straight! :D

the durgas that were running at 17t were of cos slower than the DI but it has the acceleration at all corners. 17t isn't that bad on a sport tuned in terms of stock class. easy to handle and less likely to crash. oh this bug jumps well!:thumbsup:

17th Feb my 1st run was a real d'oh-fest!
Fitted Yeah-racing 501 cvd's, 501 shocks,3-racing towers, modified 501 steering brace, Ti screw set, belt 'tensioners', slipper set, one-way, D4 serrated wheel nuts...

heat one; massive oversteer; lost a rear cv shaft....
---replaced with stock dogbones, stiffened front susp/softened rear susp, replaced oneway with stock diff.

heat two; oversteer less of an issue; rear tie rod screw undid itself (same side).

heat three; finished 3 laps down....slipper felt loose but was tightened almost all the way.

A final: travelled 50m and had no drive to the wheels
Went home.

Found out looking at the slipper exploded diagram that I'd installed the slipper plates back-to-front...."D'oh!" the run had melted a small part of the centre of the spur...I had to rub back the face of one of the slipper plates to get rid of some scoring that occured on fine sandpaper ...I think it'll be ok. Gawd !

Oh dear.
 

Today at Worksop my Durga performed very poorly. My 2WD times came down and down and down and down and the Gods were smiling as I won my final. Admittedly it was the bottom one but hey, a win's a win in any language.

My times in 4WD started good and got worse and worse and worse and worse until I gave up on the 2nd lap of the bottom 4WD final. Car was literally undriveable, the rear was constantly trying to swap ends with the front under any power whatsoever which made the corners a bloody nightmare, and the straight bits in between weren't much better. As the track itself was fairly technical I just chucked it in as I couldn't see the point carrying on and dropping further and further behind - I dumped half a lap by the end of lap 1!

Got home and found out the following:

1. Rear diff rings unglued from plastic outdrives.
2. Rear diff overtightened (following earlier failure to diagnose point 1).
3. Rear camber at 0 degrees and 1 degree positive.
4. Front camber at 2 degrees and 3 degrees.
5. Using RPM ball joints as temporary front shock lower mounts is dumb.

I plan over the next week to strip and adjust the diffs now everything is bedding in but right at this very moment, I am loving my RC10 and have shoved the Durga in a corner :(:cry:.

come over with the car next time mate and I'll sort it out for you. I didn't like the feel of the shocks at all on your car but I'm sure it'll go really well once sorted.
Shame about the rear diff, I had the same thing last week at Batley - ended up putting a 501X diff in the rear (as I told you) but I'll sort the kit one out when I get chance. the rings just broke free of the glue and spun freely on the plastic holder so the diff always slips once that happens.

but yeah, bring it over next time mate and I'll sort er' out! :)

I think I have a little problem with the rear diff and may try and get some 501X rear diff outdrives to cure it.

Otherwise, if the car is built to kit, it should go really well, the only real difference on mine is the shocks.

Cheers Jimmy, I'll take you up on the offer at the next round. I'll chip away at it over the next few days anyway to see if I can get it something like at should be - at least then I'll have a decent base setting to work from.

Hi guys

Some of you may have already seen it but I have my Durga up for sale (its in the for sale section) I am selling it for £150 but if anyone from here wants it I will do it for £135, just quote your username.

Not bad, only £5 over the UK price and it is all setup ready for indoor running for the extras that have been put on it see the other thread.

Do any of you guys know if the 3racing aluminum wing mount for the 501x, will be suitable for the Durga?

Yes it fits.. but you have to do a little moding of the rear shock tower:wtf::rolleyes:
Here are the areas you have to mod;) both sides just need a little triming..

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/a...toDB01towe.jpg