Thanks for the suggestions. We are definitely running Schui mini pins (yellow) with medium foams and yellow stagger ribs and hard foams. Front rims are cut to remove all ribs and tires are mounted on outside edge but rim is still narrowed. Sort of like a 'muffin top'!! :thumbsup:

Here is my current setup:

56 piston, 30 wt, 3mm limiters, blue springs, bladders, 2-4mm rebound
outside or middle on tower, middle on arm
25 kick, 5 caster, -1.5 camber, 0 toe
2-A camber link (3mm inside, 0mm outside)
20mm ride height, trailing spindles, 1mm spacer top and bottom

55 piston, 27.5 or 30wt, 0mm limiters, red springs, bladders, 2-4mm rebound
outside tower, inside on arm
3.5 HRC block, -1 camber, 2 antisquat
2-B camber link (2mm inside, 1mm outside)
middle wheelbase, 1.5+ on hex

I recently removed all the weight from rear of gearbox and shock tower. I had between 14 and 28 grams there from the beginning and much prefer it with no weight now.

I'm running Xcelorin 3800mah 96mm lipo w/ approximately 30-40 grams under the battery and 7 or 14 grams on or near servo.

I have Tekin RS mounted on modified version of the rear bulkhead for the rear motor car. Cut off rear posts and use next set of posts to mount right next the mid motor chassis brace in front of motor. ESC is bascially over the battery. Savox 1258 servo, Spektrum micro 3500 rx, Novak capacitor to stop brown outs on rx, MRT PT on top of servo, Trinity based Duo2 13.5.

I TQ'd last Friday night club race and finished 3rd after horrendous start. My slipper was far too tight and car popped front end on start.

Had fast lap in the main so I was happy too!!!

Guys heading over to the oople event next weekend, can anyone offer any support with regards setups to give me a starting point for this race meeting??

Hi
My batley setup works well. Just use an lrc block instead of hrc block

If you need anymore help when there just ask

My other alias is Dj kirky so I'll be easy to find!!

Cheer steve which Tire/insert wise what are people using for this track
?

If its dry it will be yellow mini rear stagger ribs front! In the wet BB green rear with Schu Slim green fronts work well. My 22 is good round RHR so if you need any setup xcome and find me mate will be there from early friday morning.

Nick Gurnell

My latest setup, ran on high grip astro last night silverstone, car felt fantastic and my quickest lap was a 22.22 :thumbsup:

Front Suspension
Toe: 0'
Ride Height: wishbones slightly above level
Camber: 2'
Castor: 5'
Kick Angle: 25'
Oil: 32.5w
Piston: 5 hole 1.3 mm tapered
Spring: Black
Spindle Type: Kit
Shock Limiters: 2mm
Shock Location: 2-middle
Bump Steer: 0mm
Camber Link: 1 - 2mm washers on tower, 0mm washers on hub

Rear Suspension
Chassis Configuration: Mid
Toe: 4'
Anti Squat: 1'
Roll Center: LRC
Ride Height: Driveshafts Level
Camber: 3'
Wheel Base: Long
Oil: 32.5w
Piston: 5 hole 1.3mm tapered
Spring: Pink
Shock Limiters: 0mm
Camber Link: 1-B (2mm under hub and tower ball joints)
Shock Locations: 2-inside

rear losi weight @50g

Front tyres: yellow staggers
Rear Tyres: yellow mini pins

Speed passion LPF
Ocra 6.5t motor
Savox slim servo

Think one of the conclusions i've come to is...

It seems to work better with freshly built shocks. Doesn't matter if they feel fine off track, my results go down with a few races old shocks :confused:

Looks like more re-building and always makes sure i have shock oil in stock :D

i rebuild mine after every meeting

thanks Gnarly Old Dog,will the average joe notice a difference between the high and low

_______________
Revitol Reviews
Revitol Scar Cream

Even with rear motor I found it hard to get rear traction in this car. I run Dustins Reedy setup on our dusty claytrack and it's all over the place. I also tried the world setup from finland without success. Well, not really the whole setup since I don't have the wider hexes or the 3.5 deg toe in block. Just the stock ones...

Do you have any ideas how to get it better? I'm really considering going back to my old xxx.

22 rear motor
 

Hello all,

I also run the 22 on a low grip clay track and I ran into the
same problems, little grip in the rear.
I tried everything and it just did not want to grip the track.
As a final resort I bolted 100 grams of lead on the rear of the car.
I used the lead pieces with sticky tape on one side, 40 grams
under the shock tower and 30 grams on each side of the chassis.
Way better! I still haven't got it dialed but for me and my driving
style it seems like the way to go.

Greetings

Hans

http://martinsoerlie.com/wp-content/...artinbukta.pdf

Here's my latest setup.

I run fairly high grip astro, and I tested links, shock positions and springs yesterday. Ran inner links inside, and shocks in 2-middle front and 2-inside rear, with blue and yellow springs. Ended up with shorter links, dampers outside and green and white springs. Feels better in the bumps on my track, and moving the shocks out made it feel more precise.

Ok so i was just feeling retro.. and well i was to cheap to get a new saddle or a losi pack and went with the REAR MOTOR install. Wow is it ever sexy looking now that its all wired up.. and my stick pack has a home


So my question to EURO/overseas friends is... Who is running RM on carpet? And anyone have a baseline setup i should try for a very small indoor carpet track? We run 13.5 and shummi minipin rear with stagger cut fronts.

Hi Bob! :)

I ran the kit Rear engine Setup with Schumacher Stager Rib and Mini pin on an astro Track last Weekend. With that Setup my car was much to tight. The only other guy with a 22 was a local who had his car build up in mid configuration and his car was just about perfekt and took fastest lap times in every single rund out of 24 drivers.
He gave me his setup sheet wich i might upload later.

It's SOOOO much more right/cool/sexy with a rearmotor:P

I've usually ended up with setups close to the midsetups, but with one step harder rear springs, a 70 gram under lipo weight, and a few limiters in the shocks. The rearmotor has a tendency to be more prone to tractionrolling than the midmotor, other than that it's not too bad, but I've had a lot more success with the midmotor... Just feels safer.

I have attached my Silverstone set up using the FastTrax tyres ready for the F2 Finals. Car feels very stable on the high grip astro and can carry speed over the rough sections.

just out off curiosity what is the difference between the HRC block and the LRC block on a high grip astro track, what affect it has on the car ??? :)

does anyone have a good base setup for carpet indoor?

thanks,
Aran

My setup from the F2's at Silverstone, qualified 3rd, car was on for TQ pace most of the day just my thumbs let me down, finished 4th in finals

Front Suspension
Toe: 0'
Ride Height: wishbones slightly above level
Camber: 2'
Castor: 5'
Kick Angle: 25'
Oil: 35w losi oil
Piston: 5 hole 1.3 mm tapered
Spring: Black
Spindle Type: Kit
Shock Limiters: 2mm
Shock Location: 2-middle
Bump Steer: 0mm
Camber Link: 1 - 2mm washers on tower, 0mm washers on hub

Rear Suspension
Chassis Configuration: Mid
Toe: 3'
Anti Squat: 1'
Roll Center: LRC
Ride Height: Driveshafts Level
Camber: 3'
Wheel Base: Long
Oil: 30w losi oil
Piston: 5 hole 1.3mm tapered
Spring: Orange
Shock Limiters: 0mm
Camber Link: 1-B (2mm under hub and tower ball joints)
Shock Locations: 2-inside
.75 rear wheel hexes (thanks gnarly old dog :thumbsup: )

No weight at all

Had lipos rotated through 90' (makes a totally different car to drive)

Front tyres: yellow staggers
Rear Tyres: fastrax turf rippers

Speed passion LPF
Ocra 6.5t motor
Savox slim servo
SMC lipos

Hi All,

I would like to know if someone have a good set-up for the rear motor configuration on the astroturf indoor track.

Please give the impression on your set-up is also a good starting point :thumbsup:

thanks