saw your durga video jimmy and i go WOW WOW WOW all the time! awesome!

Nice vid, jumps quite well frmm what i can see, ill get to doing my first off road meet soon i hope, would like to go indoor so im guessing Dudley as im in Bham?
There are some new Vids on there from Japan too, nice racing and lots of abuse going on lol.

lee

yeah it jumps well, it's a very stable and predictable car - better if you have the diff in. on the big table top it was hard to get the nose down with the one-way in the front, but that was the same for any car.

Stable and predictable sound good to me, not raced for around 6 years or so and all that was on flat with gas and 1/10 touring, couple that with the fact ive switched to a steerwheel, im starting out way fresh lol...must get the other diff built and in the pit box i reckon lol!

lee

Has anyone succeeded in building up some 501X shocks from spare parts yet? Are the parts easily available or are they something that will be "ordered in" and never appear?

Or has anyone heard a solid date for the 54028 hop up shocks?

The CVA's work but I think they are starting to hold me back now in terms of setup, also they are swiftly headed for the knackers yard, the wobble and wear on them already is pretty impressive!

I softened the oil in the rear to #600 with the kit pistons, the damping is now more similar to the front which helps, although the car is still VERY underdamped on jumps due to the total absence of pack.

Did some experimenting setup-wise today on the slippy floor at Jarrow and the one-way lapped faster than the diff even though I was less confident with it.

I also did some running with the anti-roll bars on the back and liked it, it actually increased rear grip with the yellow bar which suggests the rear end was over-rolling in the corners without, so a much nicer balance. The blue bar had more steering but was maybe a little bit edgier over the jumps.

In case anyone wondered the 501 bars are the following diameters - Red/0.8mm, Yellow/1.0mm, Blue/1.2mm. Red seems far too soft to have any effect although I did not actually test it on the car.

Still a lot more tweaking to do, still haven't got the car the way I want it, but learning more about it every meeting!

I got my shocks built up from the list far earlier in the thread, but you would need to also buy a TRF shock rebuild kit.

I built some 501X shocks from parts - I got the shock pack from RC CHAMP but it doesn't come with the plastic parts, springs (as far as I can remember) or seals (again, from memory) or pistons.
I had the plastic parts tree and the pistons, which also contains the spacers - and I had the seals. The only thing that none of this stuff comes with is the tiny 0.2mm shim that nestles next to the piston. There might be some left over from the durga kit (im not sure) but I built mine for my 501X before the durga, so I had to nick the spacers from Isherwood.
I think you can maybe get away without using them, but theres a hint of piston movement then I guess.

If you want to improve the car then the shocks are a good help if you're bouncing off the performance ceiling that is the CVA dampers. Any sort of hard landing or rough terrain will be just smoother and of course the car won't bottom out.
I'd like to have tried the antiroll bars last weekend but I didn't really spend any time on the car at all - it was great and I just spent time driving it quicker and quicker each round.

sorry did you buy the seperate damper bodies and all the bits seperate? my 'shock kit' came with all the large orings etc. I've not seen this 'TRF shock rebuild kit' that's all.

the bits that the guy from the Tamiya shop was selling had everything except the piston guides.

it is the shock rebuild kit, the same for the touring cars Jim.

ahh, the piston guides come with the pistons?

no, they come with the shock seals in the rebuild kit.

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53574

anyone know will the Tamiya TRF501X Aluminum Front and Rear Upright fits on the durga?

The rear should fit without problem, the front should also but I'm not 100% on that since the dogbone style shafts might catch, just a guess but I'd have to test fit it before saying yes.

Also what is the size of the suspension ball (A2) that comes with the durga? i broke ine the other day and still lookinf for parts

Fitted the alloy front and rear uprights from the 501x - no problem. Helped to dial in the car using the needed roll center. I am however using the 501x CVDs so I'm not 100% on the standard dog bones. They should fit. I did however need to shim the axle/bearing areas to reduce the play in the rear alloy upright. With that said - so far so good!

Side note - Great review Jimmy. Stripped the same screws!!

Can anyone show me the page with the part list for building the 501x shocks plz? also anyone used the hard case 5000MAH lipo that you could get from demon power? are they any good?

501x shock parts

x1 V Parts: 51280 (includes 2)
x1 W Parts: 51281 (includes 2)
x1 X Parts: 51282 (includes 2)
x1 Damper Parts Bag: 9404701

May take at bit of hunting around as they are as rare as the proverbial rocking horse .... Speshally the damper parts bag. Got mine from Champ and stella.
Seen some similar hard case lipos on the bay for around 45 quid. Not got one (yet) though, mines fast enough with the mamba on plain old NiMh (3700's).Although that didn't stop me from strapping a 3s from my Trex into it to see how she went!!!!!

Can anyone tell me how tight my rear Diff should be on the Durga? I thought i had the whole "differential" thing down to a science, but i noticed while spinning my rear wheels by hand, that one of the wheels would stutter and then eventually start spinning again. Is my problem the Diff being too tight or too loose? I was wondering if anyone could recomend how many turns i should go from the tightest point that the diff can be tightened. Such as 3 turns from the tightest point. Thanks Guys.



A.J.

Need Help for carpet setup!!!
 

Need some help. I have a Tamyia spec racing coming up and am running the DB01 w/the 501 alloy, cvd and DF03 shocks. Note I can only use the Tamiya parts i.e. tires, inserts etc...The first race is being held on an indoor carpet track (www.fastcats.ca)

Anyone one have a base set up??

I ran it last night. Had no rear traction on corner entry (felt more like a flat spin). Added a front sway bar and maxed out the roll center adjustments!!

Help would be great!! Donavan

hmmmmmm, where are you getting all that steering from? The DF03 shocks aren't the best, but perhaps I'd look at tuning those before anything else since it's the only majoy handling thing you've changed from the kit setup - which I raced twice and didn't find the same (oversteer)?
the steering wasn't terrible but I really wanted a one-way to get the car to turn enough.

Maybe try going to a harder oil / piston / spring in the front? The supplied df03 hopup shock pistons aren't ideal - I ended up putting in 501X shafts so I could use 501X pistons, which was a load better (this was on a DF03).

Shame you have to use Tamiya tyres but they aren't too bad. You'd probably easily put in another lap or two just by going to schumacher tyres.

reet, I got some experience with the DF03 shocks and the trick is, staying within the Tamiya parts bin, is to use three hole touring car pistons in the rear with two hole up front. What is happening with your car, as there is very little damping, the car is dropping on it's nose when you brake or throttle off, making the rear very loose.

Try two hole 40wt front and three hole 35 or 40wt oil in the rear. Also if you can, go back to the kit springs.q

Got my Demon power products 5000MAH LIPO today it doesn't look attractive as the orion ones lol gonna charge them up tonight and give a little blast tmr and see what happens:D

Thanks Jimmy (great site by the way!) Funny think is that I'm running 50wt/DF03 2 hole piston w/gold springs in the front followed by 40wt/Df03 2 hole using the std gun metal spring from the DF03 kit. Should I still go higher??? Not using a oneway - yet. I'm also using the 501x alloy uprights to fine tune roll center and arm lenght. Will the losi or associated springs work?? what about trimming the outer edges of the front tires. the TCS Tamiya rolls may allow it.

Overload, I post above a setup for you, keep all the shock positions and camberlink positions as kit for now and run the shocks as stated above. The kit pistons are about as useful as a chocolate saucepan......

Thanks DCM, i'll give it a try.

Can anyone help me please?

I did post how to set the diff up earlier in this thread.

Take spur gear cover off.

Hold both rear wheels and try to turn the spur, if it turns, tighten diff 1/4 turn at a time till you can't turn the spur.... then turn an extra 1/8th a turn.

If your rear diff keeps loosening, did you glue the diff plates to the plastic holders, check to see if they are still glued.... replae the diff srew and nut.

Thank you very much my friend. I greatly appreciate your tome. And yes you are correct about already posing information on the DIFF. thanks again.




A.J.

DCM/Jimmy I took a closer look at the rear end and found what I think is the problem - oversteer/corner entry. I'll post some pics shortly but I found that the rear suspension was hitting the rear of the chassis on compression. There just wasn't enough travel from the rear dampers off throttle into a high speed corner (DCM's post got me thinking - thanks you where spot on!!) Since the Tamiya Spec class disallows any mods of the chassis, I first add the the anti squat shims that are includes in the kit to the rear A12 suspension blocks. It seemed to work but wasn't happy with the arm angle as it took almost 2-2.5mm to provide the needed room. I solved the problem by moving the suspension arms as far back as possible using the shims towards the front v.s. the rear. Simple fix!! I'm running some practice laps tomorrow and will keep everyone posted. Thanks DCM/Jimmy for the input. SO

Eddie,

Where did you get it from?

overload, I run mine kit except shocks and a slipper and have none of your problems, even on the kit shocks. I would return it back to the kit shocks and suspension setup and try again, the DF03 shocks as they come out of the box, just don't cut it.

i got it from www.demonpowerproducts.co.uk ;)

I'd second that, the kit setup with no hop-ups sounds better than what you've been experiencing so far - it should be a very stable car.
I have my car on the longest wheelbase possible - I think that is the kit setup?

Watching yours go round York in the video (unfortunately i didnt see it in the flesh, must have missed it) it seemed incredably stable, looked great i thought, definately gonna be a quick car.

Well don't I feel like an idiot! I took your advise (DCM/Jimmy) and took a second look at the Durga build manual. It looks like I incorrectly installed the rear arms to there shortest wheelbase position rather than then the longest. This explains the lack of dampening in the rear. The arms in the shortest position where hitting the backside of the chassis halfway through there compression. I also added the Tamiya touring car pistons F2/R3 using the 40/35wt oil - :thumbsup: 100 times better. Thanks for all your help. SO

what is the recommended shock length for DF03 shocks?

Does anyone have an item number for these pistons?

Trying to make sure I order the right ones.

EDIT- I ordered #53573 and #53572 They look to be correct.

thats the right ones, and you need to be between 30 and 40wt oils for the shocks, but it does work.

Thanks for that, For the price of the pistons it has to be worth it.