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Hmm, this was kinda funny.
Today I went to my club's brand spanking new astro track, for a little warmup before I leave for the worlds warmup on Thursday. The track hasn't opened yet, but when everybody celebrates our national day and leaves me with a key, I can't just sit at home or go get drunk now, can I? So, I went with my new Mid 22, mounted with the 3.5 HRC block, TLR weights, TSD under-lipo weight, and so on. Not far off Gnarly's setup sheet. I also brought my rear motor, with a homemade weight made from a plaque from some car race... This weighed in at only 130 g(!!!!) :) The midmotor car felt okay, but couldn't quite get fast enough out of the corners, and it also felt unprecise and a bit dead in it's movements. It shall be said that I didn't change anything on the setup, but that was mostly down to the fact that I had no miracle ideas, the balance was good. The rearmotored car? Brilliant, more reactive, jumped better, felt more precise, but stilled pulled like a midmotor through turns probably due to the weight. So here's my question: Is it just that I'm a rearmotor kind of guy? Is it just that mid or rear doesn't matter, only enough weight and the right balance? Might also be the track though, the grip is good, but theres lots of rubber and sand still coming out, and the cars float a bit on top. What I think is funny is that this happens everytime I try midmotor. I just never feel at home:P |
ive run mine rear motor config std set up at my local track (broxtowe) astro surface weather was dry and car went well.will stick with rear motor config and see how it goes as my lap times improve.not sure how it will go in the wet.im no expert this is my first off road buggy so will be interesting to see how the car handles compared with other 22 cars with mid mount config through out the year at the track
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Hi Razer, where did you put the weight in your rear mounted car?
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I only got a chance to drive the 22 in rear configuration once or twice during our testing but it felt super sweet to me - more stable and less edgy than a B4 but beautifully precise at the same time. It's on my list of things to do to go back and run the rear car a bit more because it felt so good. That said - I am quicker with my mid car overall at the moment and still developing my understanding of that car. The UK is largely dominated by mid cars these days but I do still believe the rear car at the right track and in the right hands is equally as quick. I personally think the choice of mid or rear has more to do with the nature of the corners than it has with the actual surface - if the track has corners where you need to maintain high speed with subtle direction change then the mid car has it, but if the track has many low speed pivot type hairpins, then it plays more into the hands of the rear car. The other issue to consider is that because the 2 configurations drive so differently, it can become difficult when driving and racing wheel to wheel with each type - a mid car can be driven more aggressively than a rear car and will tend to carve a tighter line on exit. It can make for some interesting races :thumbsup: Just my thoughts:eh?: |
Hi all,
Was reading somewhere on here that most people are making up there own anti-roll bars as there is none available from TLR.... But there is.... deep in the Losi XX spares box I found the XX kit - LOSA-4140 It fits the TLR 22 perfectly and gives you a choice of thick and thin bars. It mounts using the two screws that hold the rear of the rear shock tower down. Only downside is that the cups and ballstuds aren't metric - but this doesn't really matter- still works fine. |
Legacy, can you post a pic fella ;)
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We're working on a rear anti roll bar solution at the moment. CAD drawings are done, we're just waiting on a few prices to come back before we can finalise the costs.
CAD image is below. Kit will come with a 3.00mm carbon fibre shock tower, 6061-T6 aluminium mount, ARB holders, 3 anti roll bars (not sure what thicknesses yet, but it will probably be 1.2, 1.4 & 1.6mm) and all screws, washers and fixings. The kit will fit both mid and rear motor configurations using the same parts. We need to gauge interest before getting any of these put together, so any comments or suggestions will be greatly appreciated. http://www.akularacing.co.uk/wp-cont...r-Assembly.jpg |
Maybe 4mm carbon would be a better option, for my crashing anyway
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Legacy, nice one fella :thumbsup::thumbsup:
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has anyone found any for sale?
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LOSA4257 would do the trick as well if you make new bars out of wire, but are you guys finding sway bars of help? no one local runs them or have mensioned anything about running them.
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Just had one of the front inner hinge pin break on me, nothing else, just noticed that the right front hinge pin had slided a bit out behind, and then when i took it out, it noticed it had broke in the middle, about where the set screw holds it.
Anyone else had this? |
Kecky off of here has had 1 go aswell
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Setup below, this is how I ran it indoors, have tried it outdoors was great, just think it needs a bit more weight in it
Front Suspension Toe: 0' Ride Height: wishbones slightly above level Camber: 2' Castor: 10' Kick Angle: 20' Oil: 27.5w Losi (going to try 30w Losi oil) Piston: 6 hole 1.3mm tapered Spring: Green Spindle Type: Kit Shock Limiters: 2mm Shock Location: 2-middle Bump Steer: 0mm Camber Link: 1 - 2mm washers on tower, 0mm washers on hub Rear Suspension Chassis Configuration: Mid Toe: 4' Anti Squat: 1' Roll Center: HRC Ride Height: Driveshafts Level Camber: 3' Wheel Base: Long Oil: 32.5w Losi (going to try 35w Losi and red spring) Piston: 6 hole 1.3mm tapered Spring: Orange Shock Limiters: 0mm Camber Link: 1-B (2mm under hub and tower ball joints) Shock Locations: 2-inside 62g under 96mm lipo (which is about the same as a pack of saddles) so effectivley no extra weight. Front tyres: yellow staggers Rear Tyres: yellow mini pins (medium insert) Speed passion LPF Ocra 5.5t motor Savox slim servo |
@paul what kind of surface is that setup for?
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Have ran it on carpet/wood at RC arena. Carpet/Tarmac at moto arena and Astros turf at torch and stotfold (with spikes instead of pins)
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