That sounds good. Our Taplow setup was before we got the optional caster blocks and we're still learning so things are developing. I've not tried StevePro's setup but it's all cool that people are finding their own way with the car - it does take time and everyone drive's differently but Oopledom is a great place to pick up some cool tips.

Ran Emulsion shocks all day today at Westmill Farm - all Astro track just outside Stevenage - pretty happy with my car at the moment. Gone back to 4 hole pistons myself at the moment and found 4 hole 54s in the rear and a mix of 2 x 55 + 2 x 56 in the front worked well.

Not conclusive cos I ran out of time to test my final setup with bladder shocks but I would say that the emulsion ones make the shocks slightly better but they are a pig to bleed and get right. I much prefer the building of bladder shocks but the emulsion ones did seem to work well.

Ended up running a shorter front link (outer hole on the camber block) and this made the car safer on corner exit. Personally, I felt they made the car stall in the corner slightly but the stopwatch doesn't lie and I was faster with the short links.

Tried some Losi tyres at the end of the day as well - Awesome stuff. No appreciable wear after a run and really nice feeling. Still got some work to do but happy daze;)

Big up to the Herts RC crew and Westmill :thumbsup: - track is good and facilities amazing. Hope to get back there soon - great day testing today with some of the team.

Right, ran Steveonamission's setup today, except for pink springs on the rear, staggered ribs on the front. Initially had way to much front end, ended up on 35wt oil and outer holes on the wishbone to calm it down.

Now, here's the headache. On low grip sections, the rear continuously wants to step out and the car constantly feels twitchy down the straight. I am not running any weight currently, I need help!!

DCM - a couple of things that might help you.
Firstly - I'm not familair off-hand with steveonamission's set up to apologies to you and him if you're already on any of this but these are things we've picked up during testing a running that might help

The short front link helps stabilize the car on corner exit - allowing you to get on the power a little earlier without the front hanging on in the turn which otherwise can cause the rear to over rotate.

5 degree caster blocks and the 25 deg kick up shim has a similar effect.

Slam some weight in it. Crude but effective - certainly for our types of track. My car is running at just over 1750g and is very settled.

Locking in the rear end - going to a shorter wheelbase definately locks the rear end in more on acceleration but at the expense sometimes of bump handling and overall corner speed. You can shorten the wheelbase at the hub or I have seen some extreme shortness where people have trimmed a bit of the front edge of the rear wishbones. This causes massive dog bone sweep which makes the car 'dig' on throttle - making it feel and look massively locked in.

It's a bit of a juggling act - we've shown in testing thus far that the safer, more confidence inspiring setups are slower than the looser feeling ones. But confidence is a key factor in off-road so I'm not about to say they're wrong - but locking in the rear end does rob the car of it's natural corner speed leading to stalling on the apexes and needing the driver to hustle it more around the track - which in itself can lead to more mistakes as you drive more aggressively and 'attack' more.

HTH

On the shorter front link.
Short wheelbase
Not gone to 5' caster blocks as yet
No weight.

I can drive it off a corener, but a hairpin, it just loses out on the rear.

where are you on antisquat and rear toe in
the 22 loves antisquat i find. its usually lacking in forward drive when it spins out on the exit of a corner. i am running 4 deg squat and 4.5 toe block ((hrc))

my car has a lot of rear grip and feels really locked in!!

Any chance you can post your latest setup and say what surface it's for? :thumbsup:

i am still running the setup i previously posted (there is a link posted to it only a few posts down) except i have found that the rear link when in 1d gives even more drive on corner exit
oh and 5 deg caster blocks!!

sorry still didnt state surface
its for a very loose track that is really cut up and bumpy
it is astro and grass
(batley buggy club)

Steve i also ran today with your setup against dcm at same high grip grass track.
My car is slightly tweaked from you setup with 5 deg castor blocks, 3 deg and 1deg anti squat shims and 102g under lipos it worked great indoors but as dcm said it still suffered on drive out of the corners (spinning out):(

I backed off the speedo setting as running a 6.5 speed passion motor and also the slipper but still couldnt compete with X6's in slow bends but was all over them in mid to high speed bends and sections:thumbsup:

Im a little confused re your anti squat and toe in settings!
Are you running 1 deg squat with a 3deg toe in block?

Sorry my bad :lol:
4.5 hrc rear toe block
3deg and additional 1 deg anti squat shims fitted

4.5HRC, 4 deg anti-squat. It is the slow hairpins that it is suffering, as soon as you give it the beans, back end has a fit!

In that case I'm curious as to why the car is loosing traction on exit at slow speeds. Do you think the rear could have been collapsing causing the car to diff out? If so a yellow spring might help. Either that or try 1d rear link
If that makes it worse try 1c

Is the sudden loss of grip at the point of weight transfer?

For me, it is at the point of car straightening up and me applying power. I should of said, I am running pink springs currently in the rear.

mine was doing the same with this setup,i changed the rear links to the outside on the the tower and the middle rear set of holes on the hub,i only ran 2 deg anti squa,the car was for me was so much easyer to drive and no more looking like i couldnt drive round a slow corner:thumbsup:

Mine is also as DCM said but not quite as bad as his as i have white springs and weight in the car he doesnt :p
We both have that same rear link setup Reg , adding more squat seems to help????

With the pink springs it might not be loading the rear tyres enough. Try yellow or White with 1d camber link as this will give you the roll stiffness that you need but let more weight transfer to rear tyre

Also if you can get a little weight around the motor area.

These are my guesses. Do you think I am on the right lines. It's always hard to try and cure setup issues without being there to see/feel the car!

Food for thought thanks Steve
Will try the setup again with the rear weight kit to see if it helps and also play with the link position - cheers :thumbsup:

I think the key to this is deffo in the link and maybe a little less antisquat. The rear weight kit will cause the rear to be more pendulous and will make the rear flap about as your damping/springing is not hard enough to cope with that massive block of brass behind the axle!!

Try more weight around the motor just infront of and behind the front pivot block. The more I put around this area the better my car feels!
I'm trying to get my car as close to 65/35 weight split as poss but don't want much if anything behind the axle.

I keep thinking about playing around with lr rl wishbones with hub fully rear. Not sure on this though. Bit radical!!

I did try swapping the rear wishbones over, went from 285mm to about 270mm, way to much lol!

I shall try the different rear springs and some lead under the motor and cells.