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-   Team Losi Racing (http://www.oople.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=17)
-   -   TLR 22 Build and Set-ups (http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65680)

Gnarly Old Dog 03-05-2011 11:06 AM
We're using the XXX4 Anti Roll Bar kit and re-bending the roll bar slightly and using the rear top gearbox screws as the clamp locations. Not necessarily ideal but you can feel the effect of the roll bar so it is certainly doing something.
Personally, I'm not convinced on it yet. I used to run one almost always in the summer on the CR2 or my X6 but so far, I've not yet completed a full race day with the roll bar on.
I does make the car corner flatter and some may find that it enables you to go into a corner harder without it wanting to GTI the rear inside wheel but I'm (currently) faster without one.
Its not tricky to do and it is easy to whip a link on or off during a practice run so as with any adjustment, its worth trying yourself to feel the effect and take it from there.

stegger 03-05-2011 11:13 AM
What gauge bar are you using fella ?

Gnarly Old Dog 03-05-2011 11:15 AM
The thinnest one in the XXX4 pack.

Sorry but I can't be more specific as I don't have the car with me.

Reckon around 18-20SWG though. I used to run a 0.9mm or a 1.2mm on the CR2 - I'd say it's closer to 1.2mm (18SWG) but I couldn't be sure (sorry:blush:)

highlander 03-05-2011 01:19 PM
I used sum schumacher bits to make my 22 rear rol bar - cougar sv rear bar cut down fits a treet.... ive found the car stays a bit flatter entering the corner with it on....... hears a pic ...cheers lee

http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/CIMG2408.jpg

The Pookster 03-05-2011 01:52 PM
Interesting that roll bars are being tested.

So far the biggest improvement I've made to the rear end feel for bumps, stability and cornering is to take the 50g weight off. The roll bar would almost be counteracting the weight...

Traction can be found elsewhere if you get the set-up right.

PaulUpton 05-05-2011 11:35 AM
1 Attachment(s)
my setup from moto arena on tuesday night, should anyone want one, still going to try things on car, this is only the first time i have run it properly will update with changed as and when

DJ's Dad 05-05-2011 08:22 PM
Paul - cannot quite make out some of your writing here, is that a 8.5t motor?

PaulUpton 05-05-2011 09:25 PM
Haha I do have scribbly writing, motor is a 5.5t........power :woot:

nevens 06-05-2011 06:11 AM
Hi all,
I'm looking for a base setup for an outdoor slippy rough earth track, but for mid motor. I don't feel like rebuilding rear motor to use Dustin's setup. Anyone has that?
Cheers

G-46 06-05-2011 07:48 PM
Hi

Has anyone changed there car to the rear motor set up,

And what effects has it given you,

Fred79 06-05-2011 08:19 PM
Yep :) just testet mine on astroturf, pretty sweet handling with the stock setup though. only thing i changed was the front spring to green and 25 WT oil in the rear pluss the four hole 57 pistons. -1 camber in the front.... the car felt solid :) ran shumacher minispike yellow front and rear,cut outer row on front. arms level. car felt solid and locked in.

T Højfeldt 07-05-2011 06:35 AM
Hello boys;-)

Are there any of you who have tested Inline spindle?

IainC 07-05-2011 07:08 AM
quick one - on the drive shafts do the black or silver pins hold the wheel hex's....? i think it's the silver one's.

Also any tips for getting the ball-cups onto the turnbuckles - they are really tight???

Thanks!!! :)

Delves 07-05-2011 07:58 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by IainC (Post 498946)
quick one - on the drive shafts do the black or silver pins hold the wheel hex's....? i think it's the silver one's.

Also any tips for getting the ball-cups onto the turnbuckles - they are really tight???

Thanks!!! :)
Hi, I think it's the black roll pin that is used to hold the wheel hex's on. They are a bit tricky to get in at first and they are tight.

As for the Turnbuckles, best thing I did was to use a reamer to start off the hole (in the ball cup end) then I'm afraid it's just blood, sweat and tears all the way. Sorry I can't offer any better tips, maybe someone else will though.

reg 07-05-2011 08:30 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by IainC (Post 498946)

Also any tips for getting the ball-cups onto the turnbuckles - they are really tight???

Thanks!!! :)
it you get a screw the same size as the turnbuckle thread,you can pre thread it with that,but only on one side,this makes the job much easyer,to do the otherside i just held the turnbuckle with a pair of long nose pliers that i ground smooth:thumbsup:

IainC 07-05-2011 10:01 AM
Thanks folks...!

Other than those (very) small niggles the build is awesome. Some of the best shocks I have ever built and a good instruction manual.

Nice one TLR. :)

wrightcs77 08-05-2011 03:00 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by nevens (Post 498548)
Hi all,
I'm looking for a base setup for an outdoor slippy rough earth track, but for mid motor. I don't feel like rebuilding rear motor to use Dustin's setup. Anyone has that?
Cheers
I run on an outdoor hardpacked clay track that is dry and dusty in the US. I run mid motor because I like the way it drives. I run Evans front end set up and Frank Root's rear set up (for his mid motor). Only differences are I run the short wheelbase and I run 1/A on the rear camber link. I run a full size lipo (not the shorty lipo) but I really like it.

nevens 09-05-2011 03:18 PM
Thanks wrightcs77. I'll give it a try :)

ianhaye 09-05-2011 06:23 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by steveproracing (Post 492174)
its very rare i post setups on here but it appears some people are tiring of their mid motor losi as the cant find a setup that has good rear grip/balance in lower grip uk conditions. hopefully this setup will help restore the love for this awesome car
i was off work for the first six weeks of owning my 22 and was able to put many hours in testing the car mainly at batley buggy clubs outdoor track, a grass/astro track which at the min is bumpy/cut up and slippy as hell in places!!
i have experimented with every tuning option on the car including many piston oil combos inc 4,5,6 hole pistons tapers vs standard etc
the setup below is an absolute joy to drive, so forgiving, locked in and stacks of grip with no signs of any untoward behavior.
i am sure some will instantly dis the piston/oil choice but this wast derived from 60/70 hours at the track testing

the 4 deg squat is acheived by using the HRC 3deg shim with the HRC 0deg shim and the 3deg HRC insert. then just put a 1mm spacer under each side of the speedo/motor mount between mount and the chassis.


hope this helps someone
any questions feel free to ask
sorry if im being stupid but dont quite understand how u mean to gain 4deg squat ?

steveproracing 10-05-2011 07:47 AM
Build the car exactly as you would for three degrees antisquat. Then in the hrc shim kit there is a really thin shim (a little under a mm thick). Add this shim under the shim for 3deg squat. So instead of having 1 shim under the front block you now have 2 shims. Thus raising the front block to beyond 3degrees
To approx 4 degrees

The insert inside the block is still the hrc 3 deg block
But this insert has no effect on the antisquat it just keeps the gearbox level. Therefore it can cope with being a tiny bit off level from the extra shim.

4degrees of antisquat give much more forward drive.
I was really impressed how much extra it gave me.
That combined with short wheelbase and the hrc 4.5 block helped give me a really locked in rear end. Much more than putting the rear weight kit on. All that did was make the rear of the car into a pendulum.

Hope this helps


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