Cant mount the rear shocks at all...the upper adj turnb will BIND the shock and arm..i tested a shim app 3 mm, way to short, still binding heavy..i think il need much longer stuff, but that means buying some stuff over this kit..looked att Matts S2 and i ca see some blue stuff that will put the ballend longer away form the tower...

mja, dont know now about this...

Tried to skip my Lunsford mounts, but still no good..i need some serious long ballstuds on the tower to get the rear upp arm more 90 degres toward tower..like it is now, i will destroy my shocks and the car wont run a meter...

Even mowed the ballstuds to the inner hole, it turned out to be better, IF i using the 4 mm shim on ball stud..the problem is on the Slipper side, the ballend cant "come on the stud", to narrow to the motor mount plate.. (if i use the puter hole, will "bind" the arm when it touches the damper..

Maybe im doing everything wrong, but im kind of handy :)..right now, i wont finsih this car, thats for sure :S

put a pic up of the shocks fitted, might give an insight to us

Here is a thread with some pics from elvos car from the euro indoor race in Lahon.

http://www.oople.com/forums/showthre...ht=euro+indoor

Looks like he turned the shock bushings around and used thin nuts on the end towards the tower. On top of that he's got spacers on the ball end in the tower and some at the bottom of the shocks.

Maybe you won't be able to use the Lunsford parts...

Car looks great :thumbsup:

Edit: A quick and ugly fix would be to space the shock tower further back... Ugly but works...

Yes, I've put a 3mm blue washer behind the inner ball stud and the tower, and the hubs,... ... might be reversed. Can't remember off the top of my head, but anyway, on my car it's the same as in the CAD drawings - which should, ideally, be in the online manual Jonathan is editing. oh - and be sure to use a tall (high) ballstud on the tower, and a short neck (the black one that is in the hubs on a STD B4) on the hubs for max clearance.

Shock bushings are also the other way around from 'normal'. Blue spacers on the bottom of the shocks are optional, you only really need these if you're using AE shocks and you tighten the hell out of the top shock bushing like me.

turnbuckles go thru spring, and touches the house of the damper when it goes up (compressed)

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...2/S5031059.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...2/S5031060.jpg

Dremeld down the losi bushings for the shocks so the Lunsford works, it is real "tiny" against the tower..

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...2/S5031061.jpg

Spacer on the Arm, to get the shock further away from T-buckle..and only running ap 3mm spacer on the ballstud, longer and i cant use it on the inner hole..it will be worse if i use the outer hole... the angle will be "harder"

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...2/S5031062.jpg

app 12-15mm ballstud would do the trick. but the longest i can found is 3/8 (10.X mm but then i cant use the inner hole on the Tower...

How about flipp the rear arms, are the wheelbase getting real of then?

Edit

I have dismounted the Lunsford, and mounted the Losi shocl"bushings" on the bolddirekt against the tower, and STILL no good..it will still Bind up..

To flip the rear arms like the S4, will solve the problem , but as i think, the handling will be very diffrent?..however, i dont think i will move on untill a solution is here..to bad, i luv the car,the quality everything, but a thing like this can get me to se Red.

if ya have a good soloution on this one, let me konw.

/Thomas P

Try to take away the Lunsford mounts and place the top of the shock closer to the tower... the body of the shock is under the tower right?

Edit: I see you beat me to it :lol:

It now looks as shimming back the whole tower is the solution. At least that would be a solid solution. Shimming the camber link would be risky...

What you also could try is to interchange the left and rear hub, and mount the camber links on the other side. It will be at a slight angle though but not that much I think... (the rear arms are also angled/toed)

What does the manual say about the hubs?

Have you tried flipping the rear hubs left to right and mounting the camber link on the other side of it:thumbsup:

Thats whats done on the X6 :thumbsup: if it doesn't work would rayspeed hubs help?

Well i have to PM Jonathan on AC on this one..

What affect have this on the cars handling ?

Is this the way the car should be built in? However, now it works, but it feels "wrong".

How does it affect on the cars handling to flip the rear hubs and then mount the C-linf on the other side?

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...2/S5031065.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...2/S5031064.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...2/S5031063.jpg

Nothing.

It gives way more space for the shocks, but you can't use hole 'C' in the hub. Then you'd need the tall ballstud in the hub and the black one on the tower.

That's quite an angle. But don't worry! Dr. Elvo is ALWAYS right... it's almost a bit annoying :lol:

Elvo, how about mounting the shocks upside down? Might give some more space... and a much lower COG! PLUS, the shafts would be better protected from dust...

Doesn't work well with emulsion shocks :(

How are they different from the SMP shocks?

Ok, now im a lot more happier..was so close to throw in the tovel...

Thank you so much for this help....

To begin with, the shafts are not hollow :-D

Emulsion shocks = anything without bladders or closed-cell foam.

Yes thomas, it will not affect the handling, the wheel base will stay the same and everything.

Hope this works for you:thumbsup:

Lee,Elvo thank you sooooo much for the Help..i was as i said, so close to re send it back to AC..but i cant realy do that :D...

Dont mind the springs they are just for the looks, i will mount som new rear and front arms + C-hub and rear hubs to get less mesh...this looks real good, i have some "high neck" studs so i can use every hole if i want to...again THANK YOU!!!!!

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...2/S5031066.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...2/S5031067.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...2/S5031068.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...2/S5031069.jpg

Thomas, this is how you mount the shocks, as most people use losi shocks i assumed they would use the Losi shock bushing ;)

If you follow the build guide and use the 3mm spacers which are in the kit, and mount the hub carriers also as per the build guide then you will be ok.

The alternative is to use a shock bottom and ball, and use a long screw rather than a ball stud.

Do i feel like a donkey :S...now i do understand..so sorry if i ever doubted on you mr J...hovever, im so glad the car is done, and it is ACE...feels like ive been her before...well well, thanks for the support !!

Another option is to use the rayspeed or racers edge hubs which have a vertical mount in the center of the hub for the ball stud ;)

Sorry to hijack the thread a little but I always thought that mounting shocks upside down would give rather bad suspension properties due to the higher unsprung mass. It would be like putting weights on the wishbones. This would theoretically make the whole suspension system react slower and outweigh the advantage you would have due to the lower C of G...

Anyone have any thoughts on this?

Thomas, your car looks the dogs bollocks by the way!!! :thumbsup:

@Elvo: LOL! :-D Ooooh! That was a nasty surprise! Osvaldo, if you ever learn english and read this... I will never forgive you for that! :-@ But really, they didn't have a bladder or foam. But one soft and one hard O-ring under the piston, remember? I think the AE 1:12 shock is similar as to volume compensation. Did you ever test this?

@Sparrow: I never heard that argument before, so I dunno. But I raced a 1:8 TR car with that for some years and it worked very well!

http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/8...1868fr7.th.jpg

Here is a pic of my beautiful new cars!!!:thumbsup:

Lookin gurd DC:thumbsup:

Dave, the cars of yours looking Super!!:thumbsup:

Thats the + to have the cars from same manufacture AC :p.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...2/S5031071.jpg

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...2/S5031070.jpg

This thread is just like a sea of carbon :woot:


Lovin those cars DC, nice install too:thumbsup:

Here is my S2
 

http://img382.imageshack.us/my.php?i...sc00172ci7.jpg

http://img522.imageshack.us/my.php?i...sc00173uv6.jpg

http://img510.imageshack.us/my.php?i...sc00174js7.jpg

http://img143.imageshack.us/my.php?i...sc00175po7.jpg

Body shell and wing are not painted yet. I have to say the easyest car I have built. Well done AC!!!!:thumbsup:

Tony

Has anyone tried the hard case saddle pack lipo batteries in the S2? If so, how do they fit and do you need to add lead weight to the car to get it to handle properly?

Cheers dude!!!!

Sweet! What's that heatsink by the motor/plate? (part no)

Gold LiPos would look übercool!

The car is done, (ok, the rear hubs will be new)... The Lid will come this Week, with 2 wings. The Losi Invader for the xxx4 fits real good.

Like i said before many times, the kit is super, makes the most other kits to fade away easy..

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...2/S5031073.jpg

I can not remember. I think its a K-Factory part.

The only thing is the body shell is being sprayed and I am not to sure if the heat sink will fit :confused:

T

Should be fine mate, the roof scoop should suck air straight onto the fins :thumbsup:

You better hadnt scratch my shell :mad: :)

Nor Mine:mad::)

Oops sorry mate, scraches everywere but that was not my driving. Stan is an animal. He DID me about five times in the first few laps.

I seem to remember when Stan came back racing last year I did the same to him at Oz!!!!