Anyone tried some type of thick grease in the gear diff?

Didn't you find the diff to be too small in diameter? I fitted the Arrma diff but then didn't have the guts to drive it as looked to have way too much room to the idler and only barely meshed.

It was a direct fit, added both shims to either side of the outdrives, just needs testing now.

I know it fit directly. The mesh was so bad I thought I'd get the calipers out and found the Arrma diff to be about 1mm smaller in diameter than the ball diff.
On top of that the diff is made of alloy and has fairly narrow teeth so the question is how long the idler will last... One idea was to use the metal idler included with the diff gear but that was smaller than the kit one too...

Just got my gear diff today, and can't help feeling that there could have been some instructions to go with it, for people that haven't built a gear diff before, or maybe a guide on how many shims to use.

Just a thought.

Is it not shimmed the same as the standard ball diff ?

There are no shims inside a ball diff, i have got the information from downloading the 410 manual, but personally think that sort of information should be in the pack with the diff.

Don't you use.............................. all of them?

210 diff oil
 

wot diff oil are people using on the durangos own gear diff?

I thought the same as I never run gear diff before. Found this online :thumbsup: http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...bly/index.html

We got these in stock today (in limited numbers) at CPD Racing

LOL i went through 4 small idle gears and yes it is too small and not a direct fit, I hope the TD gear diff is the size of the ball diff and not a plastic copy of the arrma diff that is too small

Just got my geared diff has anyone got a detailed build of it as you don't get any instructions with it:eh?:

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...bly/index.html :)

I built my official Durango 210 gear diff today and I must say with two open ends it's much easier fitting the cir-clips compared to the 410 diff. Also the crown gears slotted neatly onto the shafts without requiring a hammer:thumbsup:

The tolerances look good and it meshed well in the gearbox. I followed the ball diff build and put two bronze shims either side of the outdrives, but I think this is just a tad tight for the gear diff - probably one each side is better.

It could be my imagination, but I felt the standard 'O' rings that came with the set seemed to bed a little tighter into the recess compared to the 410 diff. Therefore, rather than use the other alternatives, I've fitted these and I'll be interested to see if they will leak.

Following an earlier tip from HULK (Craig) I've always built my 410 diffs smearing Marine grease on the 'O' ring and I've never had a problem with oil leakage so I did the same on this build.

I can't wait to try it at Formby this weekend (medium grip carpet).

Got my diff today, built it without any problems. Used 3000wt oil. Ran tonight on high grip carpet, but the car was very difficult to drive. The back end was stepping out badly when applying power exiting corners. Tried mini pins and staggered ribs, then moved onto yellow mini spikes all round, which improved slightly.

With the gear diff I am now able to set my slipper correctly as the diff no longer slips. Got the slipper set, so that the front doesnt lift pulling away at full throttle.

I'm thinking I now need to go with heavier oil, maybe 5 or 7k?? I'm happy that the diff now works correctly without the slipping of the ball diff, but the car is much much more difficult to drive, and even with reasonablly new tyres the traction just isn't there and that's on a high grip carpet track. Plan on going with heavier oil before trying it again on Sunday at a different carpet track.

dont you run thinner oil on high traction tracks as the diff will not diff out as much. from a previous post.

this

I'll need to rethink the setup, I don't have oil thinner than 3k at the moment. Wondering if I could maybe change shock oils and positions to increase the rear traction.?? Running kit springs and 35wt oil in the shocks.

Anyone have the gear diff in stock? Im looking for 2+
thanks

I filled mine with 3k during the build.

The action feels a little notchy, but I'm sure this will smooth out after a few races.

3k in the 210 diff feels really tight(?) compared to 3k in a 410 diff...

I found the same when building the diff with 3k. The lowest I have ever went on the 410 for 5k in the rear. But I have to say after a couple of runs, the gear diff felt fairly smooth.

Although after last nights testing, I'm not sure where to go next with the setup. I think 3k is probably about right and I feel that I might have to redo my shocks. I'll need to look at some setup sheets.

Mr Doughty was using 7000 in his at Worksop I think and it looked amazing!

When I spoke to Chris he was running 7kcst but by the end of the meeting he was on 5kcst apparently.

Built my gear diff last night just not sure if I over filled it as around the main seal if the casing there is a little assess coming out or will this just fade off?

Fill to just the top of the cross pins as then there is room left for the sun gear after that. The excess you are seeing will just be the little extra that has come out as you have put the last side on.

Has anyone experienced the gearbox binding with the gear diff? When i assemble it, it turns really heavy.
I've measured the diff gears, and the new one is slightly bigger, will it wear down? This wasn't the case when the ball diff was new.

3 gear setup

Hi Yes i have the same problem assembled as 4 gear i think it's the acual geared diff gear. Hoping Adam is at Worksop tomorrow to show him.

Hmm, not good :( I want to practice with the gear diff tomorrow for next weekends race.
Hope I don't ruin the bearings :cry:

If you meet Adam tomorrow let us know ASAP what he says about it :) Must be a moulding problem?!

Mine does the same so i have put the ball diff back in until it's resolved.
tried new gearbox casing and idler gears as well just to rule it out.

I spoke to the guy's at MB Models and they suggested to loosen the screws as they could be compressing the gear out of shape, did this but no difference.

Yes please do show him as this is a problem that needs to be resolved very quickly as we all have waited a long time for the diff and the finished item looks good but is a poor fit.

Mine measured .15mm larger in diameter. I was concerned about the tight mesh too and so contacted Durango directly. Chris Doughty was on hand and said that the mesh needs to be tight as there's no slip with the gear diff of course. It felt tight in the hand, but once back in the car didn't feel too bad. He seemed to think it would improve after a few packs. Now it's in the car I'm I inclined to agree.

Tried the same, assembled without the idler gear, and the diff spins freely. It's definitly a faulty diff gear diameter, or wrong shape of the teeth :(

Happy then that I have the arrma idle gear that is a little smaller than the original TD one.

I have the same problem with my gear diff really tight
And very noisey

@ OneKiwi:
Good for you :) But that's not how it should be, TD parts should fit together :eh?:

@ Andrew Twigger:
.15mm larger in diameter is what i measured too. I can feel every teeth when i turn the layshaft by hand, and I have to use force.
If Chris Doughty says it's ok I will drive it like this and see if it loosen up.
I put the motor back in and let it run for some time with the gearbox free. After a minute the ESC and the motor was warm, it's a big resistance, i'm not sure this is ok... :(

Just started a new thread with this issue am just in the process of building my 210 got the geared diff an thought I had built it up wrong so taken it apart it's not the smoothest thing any ideas anyone not sure weather to put the standerd one in what's people options on it anyone run one for a full meeting??

I ought to expand on what Chris said because each case is different. He said once everything is assembled but without the motor meshed against the spur gear, the car should roll a few metres if you push it. If it is tight enough for this not to happen then there is an issue and you should not run the car. As said previously though, how tight the gearbox screws are can affect how free the drivetrain is.

Once assembled, mine would happily roll freely on the floor and so I would expect the initial tightness by hand will reduce once run. If anyone is in doubt then best not to run it in my opinion.

HTH

Right ye loosened my screws slightly so once I get the wheels on will try that probs just to use to my ft b4 smooth as hell lol

I have just built up my gear diff. It has gone into a complete gearbox (so I have the option of gear or ball). Mine is tight, but nowhere as near as tight as any of you guys are complaining. When holding the gear box I can spin the spurgear fairly easily. Just a thought but how have you guys shimed the diff? I put two either side as per the ball diff and noticed that the bearing where quite a tight fit onto the diff and had to push them on quite firmly before they seated properly. Just a thought for you to check that the bearings have pushed on all the way.:thumbsup:

HTH

Scott