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The normal like wishbones , hubs ect but to be fair i never broke a plastic part. You dont need the different ackerman racks. Maybe get the ali servo horn as its fit and forget. Then to be honest everything else is just bling.
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Sorry i did get this to increase my range of anti squat http://www.serpent.com/product/600265/ i would say get this.
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Did you degrease all the screws before assembly as recomended in post 25 by Ross as you have not included this yourself in your build guide.
http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/car/serp...-building.html Pre warning. Clean all threads of the screws use even if they go into locknuts with motorcleaner or any other fluid that removes the machine oil that is on them. Trust me if you do not.................you learn the hard way just like we did Would like to see more breakdown details of the actual build rather than just final fits. |
Must say....it looks ACE :thumbsup:
Cheers for documenting the build Lip :thumbsup: |
Front end done!
No hicups and went together perfectly :thumbsup: the only thing that will need playing with to each persons liking is the shocks, Im defo going to get webbed bladders, tapered pistons and play about with the bore size of the pistons....this is a must I feel and will be something I change alot over the coming months to find best setup. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7017/6...dd0bc235_z.jpg Motor mount and motor have an ace design where motor slips in and is held in place with one bolt, make adjustingt the mesh and removing motors quick and easy, no problems here.... http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7154/6...b9cf6053_z.jpg Wing fitted..... I must say I feel there will be need to have a spare wing mount in the box as its clear that this will take all the abuse, http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7001/6...85534ab9_z.jpg |
Steering....
now this went together effortlessly and was silky smooth. but once completely hooked up its clear it needs some bedding in to free it all up, nothings binding just needs a bit of use.... im interested to see what difference a different lenght ankerman plate does as they are option parts. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7169/6...66a4e5a3_z.jpg and fitted... http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7155/6...f09c799f_z.jpg |
Looks very very nice. Good Job Lip :thumbsup:
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There are a few niggles that I want to share with you all and tips to remember when building this kit, a couple of things that bug me but I will also mention these points when I get to posting them.
My shell has gone to mike parker number 5 designs today, used him twice before and he does a fantastic job :thumbsup: cant wait to see it! :woot: |
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is sensor lead touching stering post? |
The lead is now moved, thats not its final position as you will see in the next update. :thumbsup:
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be interesting to see how all the electrics fit. love the looks of the dex408 but im not fancying having the esc mounted high up.
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(im interested to see what difference a different lenght ankerman plate does as they are option parts.)
In brief-Short ackerman is sharper and more steering, while long ackerman is smoother and less steering. But not only more or less steering, it's more or less at different points in a turn. A long ackerman has more mid corner and exit steering. A short ackerman enters the corner more aggressively, but can't hold the line as well, because the outside wheel turns less, and at that point has more weight on it, thus more traction. |
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Whats the max hieght battery it will take or does the hinge assembly allow for shimming to gain hieght.
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max height its 27mm I think, it allows me to fit the 6500mah sticks in but not much more.
as for transponder ive mounted it as per manual but Ive been advised of a very very handy hidden mount shown here :thumbsup: needless to say mine will be moved to the same location. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7167/6...41627bfc_b.jpg |
Things that id suggest as I have forgotten a couple of points and any negatives...
1. shocks will need work to get them the way you want, ive said it before but im going to order webbed bladders, other springs and tapered pistons. 2. PT mount in manual say mount on side of servo, but see picture above... 3. when building the input gears dont forget the serperate sheet provided for the new method of shimming, when doing the front I realised id overlooked the sheet and forgot to shim the rear mesh the new way so now I have to pull it out at somepoint. NEGATIVES..... one that will really bug me is if you want to remove the center diff, or even just the diff cover, complete removal of the radio and electronics tray is needed. its only 3 more screws but its a ballache youd rather avoid. but if thats the only downfall so far were onto a winner :D |
Looking good.
How much did you end up paying for the kit in the end? Did you get stung for VAT and Import Tax? |
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I would have bought in Uk if id realised it was £435. :lol: and not £500 |
Current trasponder position...
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7010/6...1fb8d14e_z.jpg New transponder position... http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7160/6...e317e804_z.jpg |
Shimming the rear diff mesh...
Ok so since it was built this is the first experiance I have had with removing anything for access and maintainence. To remove the rear end its 4 screws on the chassis, and 4 screws on the chassis brace, simple! this removed the back end http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7158/6...18a6e772_z.jpg Next was remove the rear wing and diff case this was a further 6 screws, 4 for the diff case and two more also supporting the rear wing http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7028/6...ed351450_z.jpg this exposed the rear diff that pulls right out! :thumbsup: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7010/6...869747ab_z.jpg remove a further 2 screws that holds the driveshaft and bearings in and then just slide it out... http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7144/6...5f3861c8_z.jpg finally get your input gear off, place two correct 0.2mm shims between the bearing and input gear, put it all back together new threadlock, fresh grease on the gears and screw it all up :thumbsup: remember to measure the shims as its not advisable to guess which shim is 0.1mm and which is 0.2mm, measuring gauge is reccomended! http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7002/6...fd33ef89_z.jpg Job done! correctly meshed, and I had meshed it the wrong way so REMEMBER to keep the seperate shim sheet handy. Maintainance and access was better than expected and not as awkward as first though. |
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Haha! Captainlip and Diff shimming problems! Now thats something new :woot:
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That's the least of this threads problems now...
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Don't worry he ordered two mine is the other:D
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So you'll be picking up where he left off, excellent.
Who's painting your shell ? Would like to do one of these ! |
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Ive seen the car in the finished in the flesh this morning :thumbsup:
Its a stunning bit of kit. Really well made. |
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Fair enough, thought I better ask but if you've already got a painter that's fair enough, don't want to steel anybody else's work.
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awesome kit!! great build tips :thumbsup:
why lips banned? beening lippy :D |
Seeing as I'm interested in this I mailed Lip on another forum to ask him how it was going.
For those interested he's finished the build now, electrics installed, and here are some pictures from him... http://www.flickr.com/photos/66027296@N05/6475872787/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/66027296@N05/6475873583/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/66027296@N05/6475874465/ Sorry I'm used to using photobucket, these are on flickr and I don't know how to make them show up as images ? I've tried putting IMG tags around it but that doesn't work so this is the best I can do. Wheels and body shell to go, so I'm told. |
Looks nice.im thinking about an ebuggy for next year, but I think it will be Mugen :wub
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Thanks Col !
The Mugen is cool, the lipo is all one side though isn't it ? |
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