No, what I'm trying to say is the the steering lock is limited by the fact that that inner wheel steering knuckle can't hit the c hub with a long ball joint on. Everything becomes in line before that can happen.

I learn a lot with this car, on setups and by driving it as consistent as possible.

Matt really help a lot, so friendly and helpfull I instantly been found of UK RC racers and people like Kevin and the whole Oople community didn't change any of that.

Run a lot with Matt setup, turn well, very stable and secure. The car is amazing.
No underlipo weight, too smooth and a bit lazy. No under servo weight as it bring a bit of nose diving I didn't like on small double whoops. 92g esc weight always.
Long wheelbase helps, as well as 0 hubs (very high grip bumpy). 0.5 was way too much on high grip for sure, it locks the rear way too much

Setup like that front and rear weights are in balance somewhat. Jumps perfectly flat. Either adding front, rear or both weights or adjust wheelbase really transfer easily on front/rear traction balance

Think it was it. Shut up and play your guitar like Zappa said.

Read Tony's post, start with a silver spring and got less steering overall but a more agressive feel entering the turn. Need braking on twisty parts but better overall. More stable on the front so I could attack more. Definetly an upgrade over my previous setup, Steering arms mod might help that but I guess the good setup is in between too much steering and not enough, and practice make me think a car with not enough is always faster, you can always use the off power steering or brake.

With 3B and silver/cobalt springs, it's almost perfect. Up to a point, corner speed is just too much and it tend to grip roll (but I'm not a good driver :bored:), will try black springs rear to resolve that but there is still a huge margin for setup improvement.

Next to come WC parts, big bores and long chassis. One thing for sure you won't think about any other car available when you got that one and for a long time never will.

Right I understand now.

Agree with everything said to help you and in addition I would change from the rear blue spring to the cobalt spring.
The stiffer rear spring will alow the rear to come round quicker and also jack up quicker to transfer the weight forward for steering and not collapse on power to give it back to the rear.
Like Kev siad get 0 deg rear hubs on - No need to lock the rear in so much with more tow in.
I personally run even more anti-squat than Kev (LOL I didn't know) to no rear spacer and that makes the car turn even more mid corner.
Saying all that everyone has to remember that we all drive differently and it's ALWAYS worth trying the advice and learning your car :)

Racing a friends rb5 vega at stotfold on sunday :D
Any tips for a good starting point guys?
It has standard shocks on not big bores

Is it Richard's?

If it is I think he may have my setup on there.

It looks like its going to be wet though so change the following:

Short wheelbase and add some weight to the rear ether side of the motor (I run 20g rudebits prototypes each side). Make sure rear driveshafts are level.

3b pistons all round with 25wt rear, 35 front - losi oil

Try yellow rear springs or even black if you have them.

No, I don't have any spacers on the rear.

Will try all this stuff next week, just want to get it as sorted as possible for the MK GP...

Hi Kev
Yes it's Richards car, he's using his new lazer on sunday
Will ask him to make the changes so it's ready to go
Thanks for the advice :thumbsup:

Hi Kev, just picking up on your message to Stu.... The last time I ran the vega in the wet I made the changes to your set up as advised but still really struggled for rear traction.i turned the ESC right down and was as light as possible on the throttle but the car was still like a ballet dancer. What weight would you advise round Stotfold in the wet? As standard I have the full ESC, servo and speedo weights in but feel like it needs weight adding to the rear. There isn't anywhere much to add weight further back than the lipo on the vega chassis though is there?

Definatley take the servo weight out and if you can, possibly, remove the speedo weight if you still can't get on the power. You can add weight in the pockets either side of the motor. I have 40 g in total there. Aslo if you have a half size lipo weight, you can run it under the lipo at the back. I quite often run one there.

Have you drilled the extra hole in the rear wishbone? Standing the shock up on the wishbone and tower will help.

How many washers do you have under the front innner ballstud? in the wet you should be on 1 or 2mm and in the dry i generally run 3 or 4mm.

Make sure it's not too low on ride height.... driveshafts level

I may be there tomorrow afternoon... but i'm just about to leave for a stag do, so we'll see...

Raising that will give less side bite going in.. I pretty much always run 2mm under there

My Vega seems nose heavy in the air, I'm running under speedo weight and under lipo weight, no under servo weight, any ideas?:cry:

If you run drag brake it will dive loads, mine is great over the bumps as I'm normally on the throttle.

Kev will try the 2mm under the rear too..

I didn't even think of that. As i'm off throttle on take off the brake pulls the nose down, genius. I'm such a moron:bored:. I'll take off the drag brake. Thank you.:D

Remove drag brake really help me to have a flat car while jumping.

Tony, I run without any shim under the rear block, in what circumstances did you add anti squat ? Didn't try that one.

I've just put Tony's set up on mine and removed my drag brake and I'll go from there

I have a 150g St/St 3mm plate under my Lipos as i usually race on dirt and grass and my car is really easy to drive, when the grip is there (astro) it understeers out of corners so i change to a 1.5mm plate @ 75g with harder rear springs and the back starts to loosen and the whole car livens up. I would like to get the longer chassis though as it can turn up it's own arse, kinda like the old cat when it first came out in SWB.

Anyone know the internal gear ratio of the gearbox?

Many thanks Kev for your help on sunday, much appreciated :D

FDR 2.6

Thanks tomtom :thumbsup:

yeah thanks kev, those black springs gave me that edge over you lol, awesome race with you me spener and paul :thumbsup:

It certainly was an entertaining final :)

Nice signature by the way!

Just Got back from Shrcc, The BEST the Car has ever been with no drag brake, and near as damm it Uncle Tony T's set up Qualified 3 Overall (I've Never done that) behind Springer and Kev Brunstall and finished 3 over all. Amazing a couple of tweeks and remove drag brake and it is a different car:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Thank you to Big Tony "E" for his advice and friendly help as always at taplow last night.

What front caster does everybody on the RB5 Vega front hubs how many degrees?

You drove superbly!

Thank you. I felt so good. Q'd 7th in the B at Taplow Friday:wub See how it goes at The GP. How will Practice work there?

The bulkhead can be turned round to give 25 or 30 deg. Run 30 mate.

Put a Blue rear spring on for MK GP as it's slightly less grip than Taplow - see me in the morning!

Practice there will be in heat order - not open practice

Thank you Tony. I'm going to go back to my Farnham set up. Looking forward to it though. Need to find some pit buddies for banter. I assume the Watts are going:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Will there be catering or do I need to dig out the Noddy lunch box?

Kristian

There will be food and drink on site.

N

Cool thank you.

Tony I was referring to the hub castor on the RB not the bulk head configuration.:thumbsup:

LOL - So was I mate - the hubs are 0 deg but when the bulkhead changes so does the angle of the front hubs :)

Cool thanks you.

How do the different speedo weights affect the car? I've always ran the 92g but I was wondering if the 45g one would make the car feel more agile at the expense of a little power on steering? Basicly I would like the car to be a bit more responsive when running it indoors.

I thought that if the car was lacking mid-corner, especially on high grip carpet, that you would tend to run more anti-squat? At Worksop indoors i have done the opposite to help the car keep traction on the slippy surface....at the expense, i feel, of some mid-corner steering.

What anti-squat setting seems to be most common on the Vega? I am not currently running the Vega steering link mod...would more anti-squat help the car rotate better?

Cheers :)

I believe more anti squat will help the car rotate better.

My current thoughts at present are whether to try the WC front end or leave it as standard SP2

Also planning on trying non WC tower and other aspects.

Just need to get a decent setup for Off Road Wars next then roll on outdoor season! :)

I am building my Vega long chassis conversion kit but I have a problem with my gearbox that I couldn't fix yet… The silver aluminium upper part which is linked to the slipper is blocking the whole process. Without it, everything works smoothly but with it, it is just impossible. It is even worse with the black aluminum part, then the gearbox is fully blocked and nothing moves anymore. Given there is no manual, can somebody help me ? Thanks in advance

Bruno

You got PM Bruno !:woot:

Hi,

I am building my Vega kit with RB5SP2 parts and i have questions.

what is the best rear end set up for the Vega kit long RB5:
- wide (RF2) rear suspension holder or the short one?
- UM 521 or UM 521.1 rear arms?
- UM 519 or UM 519.2 rear hubs?

It 's for racing on indoor carpet track.
Thanks for your help.

Wide suspension blocks

Either 521 or 521.1 will work. Check the WC rear arms part number, these got more material around inside hinge pins.

I would advise on 0 alloy rear hubs.

Bruno
Check the bearing goes ALL the way inside the motor mount.
Sometimes the anodizing builds up and the bearing does not go all the way inside.
If this is the case then just clear it inside the housing with some fine sand paper and it will be fine.