Originally Posted by AaronR (Post 524859)

Plastic rear hubs at the Belgium GP race, Lee?

Best of luck at the Worlds in a couple weeks!

Originally Posted by Chris (Post 524920)

Lee,

Some TRF201 questions:

Do you run the battery in front or rear?
Which chassis do you use? (stock or the optional)
Same question for the front arms?

Chris

Originally Posted by Mouton (Post 524980)

Hello Lee, I too must join the choir that sings your praise for giving so much advice to us less experienced! It is much appreciated!

I have a question about the TRF511, what front shock tower do you use? I have managed to write off a couple of stock towers (edges wet sanded and CA glued). I know about Tech Racing, but I have only managed to find their rear 4mm shock towers and they have discontinued all 511 parts. Fibre Lyte makes a 4 mm tower, but I would prefer something that is easier to find. Is there perhaps a Tamiya part in the pipeline?

Best of luck to you and the rest of the team in Finland!

Thanks,
Andreas

Originally Posted by Mouton (Post 525827)

I will keep using the stock towers untill Fredrik runs out of his stash of Tech Racing towers and is forced to make something up. :lol:

Originally Posted by rich_cree (Post 525818)

Hi Lee, have you had a chance to test out the new range of GHD straighteners yet or will you be sticking with the old tried and tested Gold series for the upcoming worlds?

;)

Originally Posted by Lee Martin (Post 525793)

Batteries in the rear,
i use Optional chassis
Standard arms

Originally Posted by Fredrik Emilsson (Post 525932)

Thing is that I never break anything. Never have time to drive...:lol:

Drawing a new front and rear shock tower. Will (hopefully) be stronger than original part.:)

Originally Posted by DaveG28 (Post 526290)

I've tried all the arms over time and my none scientific findings have basically been for the arms Jamie mentioned:

Front
51275 = Strongest arm, but when they fail they clean break (eg end of race), and tend to bend the hinge pin with them
54141 = Crack quite easily, but on the plus side tend not to fail completely, so you finish the race! I've also never bent a hinge pin while running them (so far!)
54283 = Don't crack as often as 54141, but like the front 201 arm I have found they bend and twist, so need keeping an eye on as they knock the geometry out!

Rear
51279 = as per 51275
54142 = as per 54141
51449 = per 54283, except I haven't yet found a twisting problem with them. It's also worth noting this arm has a cut out that's required by the 201, which I don't always see on the other rear arm options, so I'd always go for 51449 for the 2wd!!

Originally Posted by Chris (Post 526107)

Please make them the same as the TRF502X towers. The have one hole less and make them stronger. The outside hole is never used (by most of the racers i think).

Originally Posted by muratti (Post 526299)

I agree with you , Dave, only both you and Jamie forgot about the standard DB01 arms which are 51311 for the front and 51313 for the Rear. Have exactly the same geometry and thickness like the 501 arms but are way softer, nevertheless they tend to bend the hinge pin too just like the 501 arms BUT they cost nearly half of the 501X arms that´s why i always use them on my 4WDs.
Dave, what cut out do the 51449 have for 2WD? Never realized that!

Originally Posted by Lee Martin (Post 524482)

201;

Try running the weight i advised above. also some things i have been going well with lately are:
Cutting rear arms 2mm and shortening wheelbase.
running plastic rear hubs in middle hole.
running inside hole on rear tower.
using backward ackerman position
using 25 degree caster blocks
79 spur with 24 tooth pinion

run yellow springs all round and 35 front 30 rear.
1.3 piston rear and 1.4 front.

i hope this helps.

8th - Unsure the best place to buy? maybe just direct from USA? unfortunately i cannot sell anything in europe.

:(

Lee

Originally Posted by jayfinn8 (Post 598633)

Very happy one at that. Already like better than my DEX410 v3.
Is anyone running big bore shocks and which one's. The rears need rebuilding so just trying to decide to rebuild or by a different set of shocks. Also what rear hub do most run 0,.5, or 1 degree. Is everyone still running pin set up in axle for wheel or can I fit 12mm hexes, what brand? Thanks....

Originally Posted by kedal (Post 598977)

Lee, what are those yellow spring you use In Pau during Euro ? From another brand ? Kyosho ones ? If yes, why using these insteed of the Tamiya ones ?

Thanks :)

Originally Posted by Lee Martin (Post 602717)

David,

The 201 is very good out of the box in terms of quality. You can look into Ceramic diff balls and also spring options.
Things to try - LMR Bulkhead for 201 - adding 35g of weight to front to make better at jumping and on bumpy tracks to keep the noise down!

The car is very strong also! you can try the 501X HD rear arms if you ever break a standard one? these are super strong!!!

Another nice touch is the Rudebits carbon battery strap! ;)

Hope this helps.

Lee

Originally Posted by Aussie Top Force (Post 603396)

Hi Lee,

Thanks for those tips! I've been looking on the JT models and RC Domination website and cannot find the "LMR Bulkhead for 201". Are you able to help point to where I could order it from? Thanks for your time!:)

Originally Posted by Jamesk (Post 602965)

A question on the 201, i seem to have a large of amount of bump steer on a very bumpy track i race on. I can not tell if its more front or rear but it seams worse on full throttle but i have plenty of traction. An advice would be appreciated.

jK

Originally Posted by mattybucks (Post 603401)

The bulkheads are only just out. You can order one directly from Lee http://l-m-racing.co.uk/?page_id=266