oOple.com Forums
Page 2 of 17 1 2 3412 Last »
Show 40 post(s) from this thread on one page

oOple.com Forums (http://www.oople.com/forums/index.php)
-   Team Losi Racing (http://www.oople.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=17)
-   -   TLR 22 Build and Set-ups (http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65680)

Chris56 17-03-2011 10:40 PM
Got the chassis built.
How are people doing the electrics? Theres plenty of room for the esc behind the servo but not quite enough for the receiver too (even sideways).

Matt-h 17-03-2011 10:53 PM
Has anyone found white stress marks on the lexan shells?

Both kits have the same marks, so doesnt seem a one off

Matt

raymondkerr 17-03-2011 11:01 PM
I was surprised to see that the shell is pre cut. I would say mines looks a little rough around the edges. Theres sort of yellowish marks around the edges of the shell where it has been cut, some of the overspray where it looks like scissor marks have been made when cutting round tight areas. Apart from that i think the shell should be ok. Just looks slightly weird coming out of a kit like that.

Chris56 17-03-2011 11:04 PM
Mines a little rough around the edges, but should be ok once painted. That and the protective film on the wrong side of the wing are my only niggles

D20MCK 17-03-2011 11:11 PM
The shell has been cut out with a hot wire not scissors

frogger 17-03-2011 11:38 PM
Pretty damn good if the only niggles are a shell with a few rough edges! :thumbsup:

Chris56 17-03-2011 11:51 PM
Sure thing - theres no obvious weak points in the construction, can't wait to put my 6.5 in it and get it on the track :woot::woot::woot:

Matt-h 18-03-2011 12:04 AM
ok, peeled a little of the film off and its the film not the body that has the white marks

wrightcs77 18-03-2011 12:43 AM
Can someone post the length from just under the front bumper to the end of the chassis? I have teflon chassis tape and want to know if it is long enough.

Thanks

Buggy Driver 18-03-2011 08:05 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gnarly Old Dog (Post 476277)
You get a full set of 4 hole pistons in the kit - 56, 55 and 54 hole and you get a full anti squat shim kit for the Low Roll Centre blocks. The spare parts are in the F-bag in the kit box I believe - although I haven't yet got that far myself:blush:

If you choose to run a HRC block, you will need a corresponding HRC squat shim kit (TLR2045)

As for servo saver, I'm sorry but I don't know what other type would fit. You might get a small kimbro under the bulkhead and you might need to trim the width of the top of the servo saver to get enough clearance with the bulkhead under lock - but this is not something we've tried (sorry)
Cheers. What is actually the difference between changing this H/LRC block and altering the roll center with washers under the ball studs?

And you stated a .05 wrench will do the job. Before release a 1.5mm wrench was said to be needed. Would one of them fit better?

Gnarly Old Dog 18-03-2011 08:46 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrightcs77 (Post 476569)
Can someone post the length from just under the front bumper to the end of the chassis? I have teflon chassis tape and want to know if it is long enough.

Thanks
From the edge of the kick up to the back of the transmission, the chassis measures approx 280mm

Gnarly Old Dog 18-03-2011 08:54 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Buggy Driver (Post 476599)
Cheers. What is actually the difference between changing this H/LRC block and altering the roll center with washers under the ball studs?
Like I said to Razer, the theory behind it all sometimes goes beyond me - all I know is that it felt nicer to drive and was more consistent. You may be able to achieve a similar roll stiffness by altering the washers on the outer and inner ball studs but I don't know (sorry)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Buggy Driver (Post 476599)
And you stated a .05 wrench will do the job. Before release a 1.5mm wrench was said to be needed. Would one of them fit better?
The 1.5mm wrench would be for the pinion.
The 0.05 wrench would be used for the small c'sk screw that locates the rear toe block and holds it in-situ before the gearbox screws are tightened down fully.

Both the 1.5 and 0.05 wrenches will do different tasks - you risk damaging the screw if you try to use the wrong sized hex wrench.

Buggy Driver 18-03-2011 09:04 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gnarly Old Dog (Post 476617)
Like I said to Razer, the theory behind it all sometimes goes beyond me - all I know is that it felt nicer to drive and was more consistent. You may be able to achieve a similar roll stiffness by altering the washers on the outer and inner ball studs but I don't know (sorry)


The 1.5mm wrench would be for the pinion.
The 0.05 wrench would be used for the small c'sk screw that locates the rear toe block and holds it in-situ before the gearbox screws are tightened down fully.

Both the 1.5 and 0.05 wrenches will do different tasks - you risk damaging the screw if you try to use the wrong sized hex wrench.
Okay, thanks.

Delves 18-03-2011 09:08 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by RookieBOB (Post 476484)
Losi's front wheels seem to be wide...Have you some tips to fit schum staggered on them?
Hi, the wheels aren't wider. As far as I understand they are exactly the same dimensions as the XXX wheels. I think they look wider because the tyres the car was photo'd with are rather large to start with.

Gnarly Old Dog 18-03-2011 09:12 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by RookieBOB (Post 476484)
Losi's front wheels seem to be wide...Have you some tips to fit schum staggered on them?
I've never mounted up a set of staggers but I understand the wheel bead to be the same as the old XXX front wheel.
I tend to run mini spikes onthe front of mine and just cut an outer row off if required. I know Staggers work well on some cars and for some drivers but personally, I've never gotten on well with them myself.

I know the wheel looks wide on lots of the launch promo photos - mainly because of the tyre choice and the fact that the wheel is now slightly convex in profile - but whatever you did before with XXX size front wheels will work for the 22 I'm sure.

frogger 18-03-2011 09:41 AM
Is there a starting setup for mid motor, carpet indoors?

RDG 40 18-03-2011 09:41 AM
anyone know the servo spacing for savox??? 1251 model?

Russ

Delves 18-03-2011 09:47 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by RDG 40 (Post 476630)
anyone know the servo spacing for savox??? 1251 model?

Russ
I think it's 2.5mm, hope that helps.

Ben Turner 18-03-2011 09:50 AM
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/se...ow20101212.pdf

This is what I will be using as a starting point!
Quote:
Originally Posted by frogger (Post 476629)
Is there a starting setup for mid motor, carpet indoors?

frogger 18-03-2011 09:55 AM
Cheers Ben. :thumbsup:

RDG 40 18-03-2011 09:56 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Delves (Post 476632)
I think it's 2.5mm, hope that helps.
cheers buddy!

Chris56 18-03-2011 10:38 AM
Im using 2.5mm and there is good free movement. (also brings the servo forward more so there is more space for esc)

Ben Turner 18-03-2011 10:49 AM
Mines just arrived! (oh the perks of not working fridays :lol:)

Thanks to Mb models for putting up with all of my pestering emails, and replying to every single one of them, keeping me in the loop!

Aran 18-03-2011 11:26 AM
just got mine from ups, loving the chassis, look amazing piece of kit can't wait to build it!

RDG 40 18-03-2011 12:17 PM
has anyone else noticed the mistake when building the rear hub assembly?

it staes 2973 for the part inbetween the two bearings yet 2973 again for the outer recessed spacer

reg 18-03-2011 12:45 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by RDG 40 (Post 476710)
has anyone else noticed the mistake when building the rear hub assembly?

it staes 2973 for the part inbetween the two bearings yet 2973 again for the outer recessed spacer
i think people would stuggle to put them in the wrong place:woot:is everyone drilling the pistons out or are you running as kit

Tom3012 18-03-2011 12:49 PM
Drilled some pistons out 54 and 56, both so they now have 6 holes... Trial and error :lol:

Chris56 18-03-2011 12:50 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by reg (Post 476724)
i think people would stuggle to put them in the wrong place:woot:is everyone drilling the pistons out or are you running as kit
I didn't even look at the part numbers:woot: Im just leaving the pistons as kit for now

reg 18-03-2011 12:53 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom3012 (Post 476726)
Drilled some pistons out 54 and 56, both so they now have 6 holes... Trial and error :lol:

iv build mine std and they feel dead as a dead thing,they do seem to have to much pack,54 35wt losi rear and 55 27.5 losi front

Ross 19-03-2011 10:26 AM
Guys, how tight are you doing the slipper up, I've done mine so the thread is flush with the end of the shaft , but a mate has done his all the way up ?

Ross

Buggy Driver 19-03-2011 10:28 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by pugboy (Post 476279)
All looks a bit tight for Kimbro type but there is always the xx4 type, ie bendy servo horn if it is too tight and you want to run something. Funnily enough just saw something on Youtube of one of the US Losi boys pulling out of a race with the 22 because the servo horn stripped...

Has anyone a part number for this XX4 servo horn for KO Propo servos?

stegger 19-03-2011 11:30 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ross (Post 477045)
Guys, how tight are you doing the slipper up, I've done mine so the thread is flush with the end of the shaft , but a mate has done his all the way up ?

Ross
Adjust it to the track , let it slip for a couple of feet. Make sure your diff is set correctly first though and with it being new adjust it after you have run it ;)

reg 19-03-2011 11:58 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ross (Post 477045)
Guys, how tight are you doing the slipper up, I've done mine so the thread is flush with the end of the shaft , but a mate has done his all the way up ?

Ross
you will need to do it tighter than that,iv got about 5mm showing:thumbsup:

sunbeam 19-03-2011 01:09 PM
Losi 22, what a heap of crap !!

Where the hell are you meant to put your electrics ??????????

I can't even fit my Tekin RS on the ESC plate !!!!!!!! and thats a small ESC !!!!!!!!!!!

Now the RX has to go over the motor and all the wires that run from the ESC to the motor have to be bunched up with the motor wires, ESC RX wire and arial !!!!

Just crap.

Does anybody want to buy my car? I've only built it, nothing else at all £175

DCM 19-03-2011 01:10 PM
I would be tempted Rob ;)

sunbeam 19-03-2011 01:26 PM
SOLD !!

DCM 19-03-2011 01:51 PM
Will B4 wheels fit on the rear without the hex?

ianjoyner 19-03-2011 01:55 PM
Anyone find the front spindle carrier binds slightly on the hinge screws, and the suspension isn't quite free? The inside of the wishbone is free, but the outside just binds slightly, so it won't drop under it's own weight. The rear is great very little play and free.

Careful not to over tighten the diff, attempting to follow tha manual's tighten it all the way down instruction I managed to get the nut to spin in the holder.

learnerdriver 19-03-2011 02:11 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by DCM (Post 477104)
Will B4 wheels fit on the rear without the hex?
yes, if you drill them out to 5mm ! :blush:

4wd front wheels are also a straight fit on the front :thumbsup:

reg 19-03-2011 02:12 PM
i think the holes in the hub need to be opend up a small amount,i think its because its held in with two different screws,they need to line up perfectly,to be free,just make sure you dont open them up to much else they will slop around,just make sure you dont do the the arms the screws go through:woot:


All times are GMT. The time now is 01:59 AM.
Page 2 of 17 1 2 3412 Last »
Show 40 post(s) from this thread on one page

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
oOple.com