Yes, rich is running in the middle hole on the rear hubs though with 4 washers under the inner stud ( long stud needed);). I ran 3mm spacer on the std stud though which isn`t far off.

As promised, here's my Bury dry starting setup...

Link :)

what is the difference on moving the steering rack position have? mine is currently on the front location.

Back = more low speed steering + less high speed, front is the opposite. Moving it back does make it a bit more sensitive around neutral too.

link was working a day or 2 back but now fails :(

is it me or the link?

get the following in IE,

:eh?:

not properly linked up yet but since you need it:

http://www.oople.com/rc/setup/jconcepts/SetupSheetsJConceptsBJ4.htm

Cheers Jimmy :)

Grip / Traction Roll
 

I'm currently running my BJ4 as below (other than 3 washers under the rear camber link which is now to 'B' on rear hub):

http://gallery.myff.org/gallery/80393/BJ4_May07.JPG

I am suffering from severe grip roll. It means I have to drive over cautiously as I'm always worried it's going to flip. Has anyone got any ideas?

I would say move the shock positions to the middle on the towers and the outside on the front wishbones.

2 deg anti squat also.

And drive it smooth!!!

The track I run on is very very bumpy, and found the reduced anti-squat did help so don't really want to go back to 2deg.

Maybe it is just my driving and I'm just not smooth enough!

Rich has done a lot of work and did a lot of testing before the bury national, he found that he could stand up the shocks at the rear to the middle hole and run the middle hole on the rear hub with 2 deg anti squat, this gave him plenty of side bite but masses of drive too, and bury is usually as bumpy as they get. It looks like your generating too much side bite with the shocks laid down all round.

Have you tried the outside row off the rears also?

Thanks Lee, going to try both sets of shocks in the middle holes but keep the 0deg ant-squat to see what difference it makes this week.

Not tried cutting spikes off rear tyres before.

You can also try dropping the oil in the rear to 30w, it lets the rear of the car sit down into the suspention lowering the CG. The Bury setup is what I run pretty much everywhere now except with the shocks on the outside of the front wishbone, I only normally move them in when I'm desperate to generate steering as the front end isn't as consistent on the inner hole.

Thanks for this. I rebuilt the shocks at lunch today, going down to 30wt so will see how I get on. What height would you run on a bumpy rutty track? I currently run wishbones level all round.

Normally CVD's level on the front, and wishbones level on the rear. Overall the front should run slightly lower than the rear.

I amended my set-up to match Rich Lowes Bury set-up with the exceptions of 0 deg anti squat and blue front springs.... what a difference! I could finally push the car without it constantly rolling. For the final, I switched to silver front springs and it was even better! Many thanks for the advice! :)

Sounds good :cool:

Ride Height
 

I run on a very bumpy grass track and am running Richard Lowe's bury set-up. One thing I have noticed that if I try to run at speed on a bumpy section, the back end tends to bottom out and then throws it self up so the rear wheels come high off the ground. This then causes the car to go into a roll or flip.

I'm thinking a solution maybe to run the car higher? I currently run the CVD's level on the front and the wishbones level on the rear. I understand that if I raise the car, I will lose ability to corner faster as it may tend to roll more.

Is there another or better option? Should I try limiting the shocks, different weight oil, different shock pistons?

:confused:

Hi Zipper,

Are you still running 0 degree antisquat? If so try the 2 degree blocks which will stop the back end squatting under power and reducing ride height.
Ho much rear wing are you running? I have always run a full uncut 7" V wing on my car, which helps keep the back end down and stable over bumps quite a bit ;)

Thanks Richard,

With regards to wing, I am using a 7" uncut. I'll give the 2 degree blocks ago and will let you know how I get on.

Cheers!

Richard, the shock oils you refer to in your setups, are they AE or Losi?

Regards,
DaHomie

AE everything in my shocks except the pistons which are Losi ;)

But AE and Losi are exactly the same anyway.....

G

Thanks Richard, most appreciated.

Has anybody got a good base set-up for CML raceway?

Nobody got a set up for CML??? :(

The car will be arriving literally with the trims set and that's it so any help I can get with set up would be greatly appreciated.

By the way would have to be based around AE pistons too as I don't have the LOSI ones in my pit box any more.

HELP!!

Have a go with the Bury starting setup, thats more or less what I run everywhere now no matter what the surface :D

With AE pistons, try 1's in the back with 27.5w and 2's in the front with 37.5w ;)

Cheers that info is much appreciated,

I built the car with #2 in the front with 40Wt and #1 in the rear with 30wt.

I'll run it in practice like that as it feels close on the bench and I only have AE oils so don't have the half grades. I am assuming that your using Losi oils with those numbers?

Glad to hear there is a near "universal" starting set up with the bury one you posted up. Only question I have is how much change do you think would be required if you ran centre one-way rather than one-way diff?

I say 27.5w but it probably isn't, in that situation I would put half 25w and half 30w in the shock.

The car will probably go round corners a bit better with your shock setup but won't be as compliant over bumps as it would be with the Losi pistons ;)

Understood. Ended up with LOSI pistons in the Mako for the same reason! Will get some when Dom gets back off holiday but I can't get them until then (hopefully in time for Kiddy winter series round 2) as I don't like buying off other people ..... after all the support he gave me for so many years it just seems far too dis-loyal!!!!

Just to contribute and for discussion;

Kidderminster Novemeber Winter Series Round

Damp (slippery in places, reasonable traction in others)

Set-up as per Richard Lowe's Bury base set up other than.....

Drive:- front diff and one-way on shaft

Pistons:

AE #2 in front
AE #1 in rear

Oils:

AE 35 in front
AE 25 in rear

Springs:

AE green front and rear

Tyres:

Balistic Buggy pink spikes (not cut but not brand new as they were borrowed)

Ride height:

Rear:- inner and outer hinge pins in line
Front:- 3mm lower than rear

Motor:

Novak 5.5 on 18:78 (10.83 which is a little higher than their recomendations but it helped smooth the car out and still came off cold)

The car felt really nice in the final (been running Schumy greens till then as all I could get), next to no understeer off power and just the slightest hint on power but not enough to make the car "push". Lap times in the final were good enough to slot me into the A (if it had been qualifying) so must not grumble .... about were I would expect them to be compared to people like Matt Dodd assuming that our relative performance is still as it would have been 3 years ago when I last raced 1/10th off-road.

This will be my starting set-up for damp astro from this point on (till I find something quicker but as safe to drive)

Try losi pistons;)

They are on the list .... hopefully arriving soon. Will probably start with the equivelent pistons and work from there (not too many changes in one go)

Go for red 35wt front and blue 30wt rear, its all you ever need, i have tried other combo`s but always go back to this. The US tracks may be different though:o

I keep seeing mention of the Losi blue piston (bigger holes than AE #1) and am wondering how you run them on a car that basically has a problem with the rear suspension collapsing under load? I'd have thought a slightly higher pack set up (smaller hole) would have helped give the back of the car something to lean on!!!

Maybe it's a difference in driving styles (i.e. maybe it works on the point and squirt style which is not how I drive) but I am 100% certain blues in the rear wouldn't suit me. I'll give them a try when I get some Losi pistons as I'll never know what the car would be like till I try it but it just seems totally the wrong direction as I'm actually thinking of #2s with a lighter oil in the rear after my last outing at Kiddy!

The damping doesn't stop the car leaning in any way it just changes how fast it happens, the springs and roll centre change how far the car leans over.

Thats the whole point of the 4 washers under the rear camber link and shocks in the middle hole on the tower instead of the inside, to keep the car level. I'm one of the least 'point and squirt' style drivers around and it works really well for me :)

Fairy snuff Richard .... I'll give them a try ... just as soon as I can get my hands on some Losi pistons ...... like gold plated hens teeth with fillings in at the moment!!

Seems I may have mis-diagnosed the problem

Roger, Give John Cockill a shout at the Raceplace (01462 684859). I'm sure i saw some hanging up in there yesterday. He can bring them to Stotfold for you!:)

Anybody got a BJ4We set-up for Southports outdoor track please.

Ryan, run what is on it, its works everywhere:thumbsup:

Have you got a 1 way for it yet?