http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j2...t/trf201-4.jpg

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j2...t/trf201-2.jpg

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j2...t/trf201-3.jpg

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j2...t/trf201-1.jpg

Nice touch with the stars on the wing!

But please replace those 5mm ball studs on the caster blocks. They will brake soon or later...You probably know already.

Use same as on rear hub. Nut + screw.

Nice DCM:thumbsup:

And a note on the ballstudds they will bend but not break. I have
never snapped the heads off they just bended on me.
The other studds that came with my 501x with the holes in them
are much better. I did my 501x like that and have never had
a problem with breakage.

I'll include a pic. They are used on the aluminum caster blocks. Put these on the whole car
and you'll never have a problem again. I dont know if you can buy the screws seperate or not.???
My 501x WCE came with a boatload of spare screws...

im considering going to Associated ball studs and RPM Ball cups... But the tamiya stuff is prettier.

RACEREX: Do you happen to have a tamiya part number for these ball studs you have in that picture?

53969 for the inner front ball studs

43869 for the outer rear ball studs that you screw into.

Well, I broke one on first test run. Part of it was still in caster block. Had to drill it out...

Ball studs #53969 are good stuff in my opinion.
Ball studs #19804205 are crap.

On caster block I now use screw and ball nut #53869 (same as on rear hub)
On uprights and steering linkage #53969

Just thought I would send some under body pics for you guys

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j2...t/trf201-5.jpg

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j2...t/trf201-6.jpg

I would like to thank Jimmy Oople-san for allowing me to do this online build thread, and hope it has whet peoples appetites for this car.

Team Tekin for the awesome (and probably the best, ay Northy!!) electronics out there at the moment.

And Chris Long for selling me two KO servo's for silly cheap money!!

If anyone would like to donate Brass parts for testing... I am open to offers :thumbsup:

Oh, and most important, if it wasn't for their support, these pics could not of come to you, yes, my Wheelie Bin

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j2...lt/support.jpg

Ooh that battery brace looks sooo cheap! :cry:

I knows.... might have to get a Carbon brace.....

How much is this car?

Depends where you buy it.

In Europe, why not try modellbau-seidel.de
They sell them for 229 euros. Add another 30 euros for body and wing. Rather cheap considering it´s a european store.

m-k-racing has them in stock too:thumbsup:

Bargain!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Tamiya-42167-1...item58887f9e82

Andy

Has anyone purchased anything from this people???

Me, several kits and spares.

Perfect service:)

Hmm there based in Germany. Just out of curiosity. Do you pay import tazes or extra vat for eu purchases. I have a feeling that you dont, however id just like to clarify.

Thanks

Col.

No you dont. The VAT for the particular country is already added in the price, just like UK shops. There're no import taxes in any EU countries. Lots of europeans buy their stuff from the UK due to this (and the low pound sterling).

I have bought stuff from Germany many times and you only pay for the goods and shipping, nothing extra.

yummy in the mud

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j2...ilt/dirty2.jpg

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j2...ilt/dirty1.jpg

worked bloody well in the wet on ribs too:thumbsup:

Anyone know what rate the black spring in the 201 kit is and the part number?

Till one wheel escaped :lol:

What is the main reason that the left rear hub needs to be on the right and the right hub on the left?

Is the situation the same for the optional aluminum rear hubs?

IT MOVES THE MOUNTS FOR THE CAMBER LINKS BACK WHICH HELPS THEM LINE UP.THESE PARTS ARE FROM THE 511 ORIGINALLY I THINK

IF YOU MEAN THE 0.5 HUBS NO.THE LEFT WILL GO ON THE LEFT RIGHT ON THE RIGHT I IMAGINE SINCE THEY ARE TOE IN

If lining up the camber links is the reason, then it shouldn't matter as the links are differently on the alu hubs anyway.

501 has these hubs too, I think. Unless there is a slight difference between the 501 and 511 hubs.

There are also 0 degree alu hubs, as far as I know...

Yep, so can go on either way!

The plastic hubs are from 501X. Same on 511 and 201.

On the 501X the hub marked "R" was on the right side. Thats why it says "R". The camber link was mounted on the back of hub.

On the 511 and the 201 the camber link is mounted in front of the hub. To clear the ballcup from the wheel you use the hub marked "R" on the left side.

They are, as mentioned above, a 0 degree hub.

The 501X alu hubs (#53962) can go on either side. Also 0 degrees.

What is the advantage of the tapered pistons ?

For me, it allows the shock to drop faster than it raises.

Ok, thanks. So, nothing very very important.

Not really, I did it more to prove that you don't have to go and buy fancy tapered pistons, you can make them yourself.