Red referring to the color.

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/produ...id=48&plid=154

if anyone needs a touch of this stuff i hava a nice big bottle
hellishly expensive

In future will the BJ4WE kits include the B44 slipper clutch?

Elliott.

They will not actually. The guys that were running them during the Euros were testing the setup for the B44. They were running them locked, or almost locked anyway, haha.

Andy it is easy to tell that you are really proud of Jconcepts and all that they have made. And I sort of feel the same way. The thig that gave it away was the Cheeky little "Ha Ha Ha" at the end of your post.:D

Dahomie, if you are still having problems with the slipper clutch i now have our slipper upgrade kit available for the S4 / BJ4WE. Which we think cures the problem with the slipper clutch coming undone and also always you to run the slipper looser which in turn puts less stress on the rear gearbox.

Myself and Chris D having been running this mod since the Oswestry national without any problems.

I am definately proud of the company I work for!

Pics, price & link would be nice

And so you should be proud. They have accomplished so much.:cool:

Get some pics up Jonathan! We want to seeeeeee! :)

Im just lucky to be "grandfathered" into their success.

Yes PLease Jonathan let se some Pics?. I do not have any problem, but they might come..

Yes Johnathan, you did send me instrucions on how to do the slip upgrade but some pics would be very helpful as well.

sorry but will somebody say that this slipper its a shit!, you can´t adjust it on race, threadlock don´t works, cyano in the nut?....ther T-nut ears broken....what kind of slipper it is? I know, this slipper stinks, I need to go to a race with 5 or 6 slippers? JJAJAJAJA please, dont make me laugh.

JAJAJAJAAJA I told you! You'd bought a BX. HAHAHA

well, get serious, maybe the Bj4 slipper is the worst part about it. I've seen many issues with it and being honest, for a top level car that kind of headaches are not acceptable. My pals with the BJ have to always use threadlock in their slippers, almost lock it, or just full lock, in wich case it'd be better not to have any slipper at all.

I hope that Jconcepts solve this issue asap because they developed a great car that everybody is trying to duplicate en some way or another, but the slipper is getting people angry.

Will the B44 slipper not fit?

Or maybe if you guys build it as per the manual with decent threadlock you will be ok. Its not hard, the metal nut it a big improvement over the plastic one and at the weekend i stripped a spur (my fault) i changed the spur, rebuilt the slipper thread locked it and ran it for another 4 runs, no problems no extra slip. Easy!!:D

So my point is, its not shit if you build it right

I think a lot of people do have problems though with the new design - richard lowe has two built up so he doesn't have to mess about. Personally I only ever rain the original slipper which could be rebuilt without threadlock.

The B44 slipper looks to be a much better design which can be easily tuned - but to fit the BJ4we you'd need the centre drive shafts from the b44 also.

I have all parts for the B44 slipper ordered (hopefully) and will assemble and test fit as soon as they arrive. I look forward to actually having a slipper :-)
I do think that the front center input and CVD will have to be exchanged as well, but hopefully not the rear one.

First one that completes the build, please write a short report on it in this thread (I will if I am the one).

By the way, for the Bj4 slipper Lee, I actually agree. I started this thread and had huuuuuge problems. Once I got a GOOD threadlock in there, no more problems. But still the original item is not really a slipper in that sense I believe, more a strain-relief for the plastic gears.

Has anyone actually tried to use the diff thrust-bearing in the slipper?

I was told at the weekend that some people do use a thrust bearing and a lock nut.

Now this confused me as a thrust race is used to isolate the diff screw from the relative movement of the two diff halfs ..... on the BJ4WE the outdrives are keyed together so the relative movement is not really there. I think a big improvement would be a shouldered head on the bolt (to increase the frictional area) and a locking washer ...... that may well help stop it coming undone.

Well, that is just it......there is movement between the outdrives!
It is not much, but enough to losen the bolt......

There is a little tolerance inbetween the outdrives, yes. Using "red" threadlock will help prevent the assembly from loosening.

I know I'm pigheaded, bud I still would like to know if anyone has any experience with the thrustbearing.
I think glueing things together isn't the answer.

Thrust bearing? You mean assembling the two washers, with balls and grease in the middle, in place of the single washer? The moving compenents of the slipper dont involve that washer at all, so the thrust assembly would serve no purpose, and it may not even let the bolt reach the t-nut.

Why dont people just build it as the book says:confused:

I have had a couple of goes but still backing off. Car is awesome but slipper is difficult to get right. I have now got some Associated blue threadlock to see if this sorts the problem out.Fingers crossed!

I built mine with red thread lock and all has stayed tight ..... however I would really of appreciated being able to back it off a fraction at the weekend and didn't dare touch it trackside ... in the cold and wet!!!

If it's relative movement that is the problem that should be relatively easy to fix .... leave it with me!!!!

RogerM. Where do you get Red threadlock from? What make? Is this better(stronger) than Blue associated?

I got mine from ScrewFix!!!

The red stuff is meant to be more of a "permanent" bond than blue so yes, it is stronger.

Guys, please stop talking about the threadlock and try the thrustbearing (or two washers, with balls and grease in the middle)

Don't just use the thrust washer, we also tap the metal T nut and then add a grub screw which tightens upto the diff screw, this solves all your problems believe me ;)

Ye it does! I adjusted my slipper on sunday at kiddy for round 4 Roger & didnt even use threadlock when I put it back in :)

The grub screw is the bit Ken left out ..... now I understand!!!!!!

Are you using the standard screw or do you need a slightly longer / shorter one?

4-40 grubs ..... I wonder where I can get them from???? Anybody know a Great Planes stockest near Cheltenham ....???? :D:D

Now where have I put the BJ4???? (seriously ... not seen it in two days .... must have been "tidied".

Sorry, but still nobody told me that they used a thrustbearing in the slipper......and realised that it's crap.
Please answer my question,...... anyone?

hi, while I wait for the parts from Jconcepts Im going to test one center differential, Im bored, yes....I have finished the assembly and I have to test it in the track.

Great!!! Good luck!
I'm curious how you did that.

Me too :eh?:

I'd keep your slipper assembly handy... ;)

Guessing two short side diff halves, a diff rebuild kit and a kimbourgh style spur gear.

It might be interesting, might even help on very rutted tracks.

I tried to build a diff for my BJ with the parts I have (B4, B3, TC3, RC 10 worlds, RC 12LW) and still could not make it work.
The biggest problem was the size of the diff rings in combination with the outdrives
The problem you create by using a diff in the middle is that you don't have a slipper anymore.
So all the power will go thru the diff, which will slip.