What is the issue with using trf dampers on the DB01 by the way?

The standard rear shock tower is too low to use them without limiters Dave. Without limiters it ends up with so much droop the driveshafts tend to drop out.
Whether this remains an issue with the WO version of the CVD's I don't know.

unless the WO driveshafts are physicaly longer, then it will have the same issue, plus too much droop just makes the car feel wollowy.

I have the WO driveshafts on my car, will have to compare them to yours Steve to see if there is a difference.
The inner front bearing is changed for one 3mm wide instead of 4mm, so you never know (incidentally this is the same setup as on the TRF511)

how much droop is ideal? I'm running b44 shocks - there's a weird swinging sensation mid-corner at the back with no limiters.

Is already for sale on E-bay at Jason http://cgi.ebay.com/84100-Tamiya-1-1...3286.m20.l1116

Be nice if it came with a body and wheels. That runs the price up more than a B44.
But it does have the updated carbon parts on it.
I'm pretty sure it has the slipper clutch as well.

Just had a look at the picture on Ebay; I was wrong it says: Main chassis specific to DB01R. Wonder what the difference is :wtf:

It has a slipper.:)

I got my DB01R at the North American Tamiya nationals raffle!! The chassis on that kit is still plastic. However, it has the cutout for the motor heatsink like the carbon filled chassis, but it does not have the battery cutouts :thumbsup:

And the diff joints? Metal or plastic?

Awesome!! This is the chassis I have been waiting for!! I have always loved the heatsink plate, but as anyone running Lipo knows - the battery slots are a nuisance.

I'm ordering one of these chassis as soon as they are available.

diff joints are the standard metal/plastic of the regular DB01 - not the 501X diff halves. :thumbdown:

Shocks are identical to the TRF shocks - so the rear shocks are too long again. but I have the atomic carbon rear shock tower to fix that issue.

Ok, so another $30 to upgrade those.

dose it come with a body what body fits??

No body included.
You can use a Baldre or Durga body.

what about rally shell

the more i look at the db01r the more i ask myself whats the difference between the r and the norm (Durga) and what rally bodies are coming out for it
i am assuming the r means rally

$235.90 USD plus shipping at rcmart & about $34 USD to ship to USA.

R basically means it has most of the "racing" hopups included (available separately for the normal DB01, apart from the chassis at this point).

Bodies that fit are the same as for the normal DB01:

Durga:

http://www.tamiya.com/english/produc..._durga/top.jpg

Baldre:

http://www.tamiya.com/english/produc...dre/top550.jpg

I picked up one of these bad boys yesterday. Has to be the best value for money 4wd on the market.

Some more pics from Tamiya Japan web site:

http://www.tamiya.com/japan/products...b01r/front.jpghttp://www.tamiya.com/japan/products...b01r/cover.jpghttp://www.tamiya.com/japan/products...db01r/rear.jpg

Box
http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/a.../DB01-Rbox.jpg

Chassis is molded for torch batteries, but Lipos fit snuggly enough

http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/a...et/Chassis.jpg

Buy the sweet Ti screw set so you can ditch the crappy phillips heads

http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/a...t/Tiscrews.jpg

Looks a great bit of kit ScottyP, the Ti-screws are nice. How much did the kit cost? Is it in B44 territory in term of price?

Quick couple of questions;

Does it come with the double slipper clutch (the slipper spring looks like its from that hop-up)?

Is that brushless motor in the kit? The reason I ask is because the normal DB-01 came with a motor.

Congratulations ScottyP. I also think that it´s best value for the money.

It´s has the 54018 "single" slipper clutch, not the double slipper (#54061)
Btw, The 511 also comes with the new spring, but the standard "single" slipper.

Brushless motor is not included in the DB01R kit.

Only options you might want to buy are the 501X outdrives ($30) and titanium screw set ($30). Of course a body shell as well.

I have ordered one + a Durga bodyshell. :thumbsup:
Will not replace my 511, but really look forward to try the DB01 chassi.
With the new drive belts it will need very little maintenance.

I got mine from RC Model in Hong Kong for USD$230. That's $100 less than B44 :thumbsup:
http://shopping.rcmodel.hk/product_i...ducts_id=15513

simoncook - yes, it comes with the optional slipper. No motor in the kit. In fact, it's much like a touring car in that you do not get wheels & tyres, or a body.

Apparently the body to use is the Baldre as there is a bit more room for electrics and it is better for cooling. I like the styling of the Durga better though. Will probably try both.

Cheers,
Scotty P.

Just my opinion but the Ti screw kit - and I speak from experience of the Tamiya one I used on my DB01 - is a total waste of money. The weight saving is negligible, even more so if you use lipo as you'll probably want to add weight anyway, and the screws feel horribly soft when you tighten them with an allen driver. After a few times removing the geartrain covers to change pinions (the real pain in the ass part of the DB01) mine were shot so I bought a replacement hex headed steel screw kit, loads better and less than a third of the price including shipping.

The Baldre body follows the line of the chassis better too so less crud gets thrown up inside. Shame it has looks that only a mother could love.

So do the b44 rims fit?

Does the kit come with the rest of the reinforced part sprues?
54033 Carbon Reinforced A Parts Diff Cover
54034 Carbon Reinforced D Parts Caster Block
54035 Carbon Reinforced L Parts Steering Arm

The baldre shell is great! it provides a much better fit around the sides and back of the car than the durga shell. It also seems to me that my car rolls right side up after rolling more often than when I was using the durga shell (when you spend as much time rolling as I do, you notice these things!) for me, the baldre shell is clearly the way to go.

falcon pwner: for a list of the hop-ups included within the DB01R click the link:


http://www.tamiyaclub.com/picturefra...09134139_2.jpg

:)

Tons of rims fit.. I have used J-Concepts Rulux wheels and Losi XXX4 wheels with no problems..

rear rims can be found the same as most suppliers but having trouble finding non tamiya front rims (tamiya distributor dose not suply any trf parts or kits db01 are rear over in australia)
what front rims would you suggest

Losi front rims, for starters.

another brand local hobby shops don't supply

These wheels are a direct fit to the DB-01. Both front and rear:

J-Concepts Rulux B44 Front - http://www.jconcepts.net/store/index...roducts_id=218

J-Concepts Rulux B4 Rear - http://www.jconcepts.net/store/index...roducts_id=217

Losi 1/10 4WD Buggy Front Wheel - http://www.losi.com/Search/Default.a...hTerm=240_Dish

Losi 1/10 Buggy Rear Wheel - http://www.losi.com/Search/Default.a...hTerm=260_Dish

I have been using these wheels at my local track for over a year.



I have my eye on the new Brama wheels made by HPI for their 1/10 4WD, but 12mm wheel adapters (Tobee etc) will be needed to fit them to the DB-01. - http://www.hpiracing.com/kitoptions/10791/

So has anyone run theirs yet? Does it gave the droop problem that the standard db01's have with the trf dampers?

The only parts that my DB01 lacks in making it an 'R' Version are as follows: Reinforced drive belts, Motor heat sink, and i guess the newer chassis as well, but other than that, I could soon start calling mine the 'R' version of the almighty Durga. As far as the new belts go, i'm not sure why Tamiya felt the need to reinforce them, as mine have never had problems for the 2 years or so of using it with low turn brushless motors. Well i guess this kit is just another example of parts that you can already get and add to the original version of whichever car it may be and then giving it a new name. Nothing against the kit though, I think it looks pretty bad ass and gives you the convenience of having everything all in one box, unless of course you already owned the DB01 then it would be quite pointless to purchase. I wonder what the price of it is, but I'm not even gonna ask since it's probably already in this thread or a couple of clicks and types away on google. I gotta see those new belts as well while I'm at it. :thumbsup:

The new belts are a HUGE improvement! I used to get 25 or so 5-minute runs on my old belts in my 501X. I use the new belts in my 511 and likely have 75+ and they still appear to be in good shape.

Sure, my 501 was 110 grams heavier than my current 511, so belt wear shoud be more in a heavier car but I feel Tamiya found/made a really nice belt for the DB01/511 series.

When you bought new belts Aaron did you also replace your pulleys with new also. Or do you think it would hurt the old pulleys?
I have over 50 5 min runs on my 501x WCE and the stock belts are still in good shape.
You guys must be stretching your belts tighter than I am if your snapping them.
A friend of mine ran his belts loose and put 40 runs on it before he sold it, and he wasnt even the original owner either.
I guess everybody is having a different experience.
I plan on getting the new belts eventually, but people have said to me if it isnt broke dont fix it.

Will saddle lipo's fit, is there any extra length over and above the amount needed for the stick lipo's?

Also, are the atomic towers needed or is the droop not a problem?