When you've stripped the slipper down are you still using the Schumacher slipper spring or a differant brand

hi I bet your track rod came off the swing arm, try putting a 3mm grub screw in from the top side so it locks the 3mm underside one, this way there is no need to lock tite the screws and they will never fall out again.

Try taking the front alloy braces off, and just put 3mm nuts on where the stiffeners go, this seems to let the car have more twist corner to corner, I have found the car becomes much smoother in its feel and more consistent over a full to discharged battery run. if you have driven another make of buggy such as a YZ2 you will get the same feel, this is a reason the K2 has a high flex top deck.
it seems a symptom of the Schumacher as the SV2 was the better with more flex.

I couldn't say how it compares tbh as I've only run kit setup and the forward motor/shorty setup.

Between the setups I've run, moving all that weight forward the rear feels less lardy and the car feels quite a bit more agile ... even with a 50g weight under the lipo ..

I'd say the new inner shock hole is a must with this setup, as is the lightweight slipper ..

Apparently the B5 slipper spring works on this setup ..

I couldn't find one so I dug out a spring of my old RC10 Team car hydradrive setup ... circa 1991 :woot:

Hi CARB, you guessed right on the steering link! I either forgot to threadlock those screws, or not enough. One bushing and bearing came out, and the other was loose. I did look around for them in vain. Then by a miracle one of the guys found all of the bits still together! Got it back together to run the rest of the meeting. I did put some threadlock on but the grubscrew locks are a good call :) I will try taking off the alloy stiffeners for a round and see what that does.

I have a couple of shortys and a 50g weight on the way now mrspeedy, so I can try it although I forgot the 117t belt. I would imagine a shorty right back and weight would have a more rearward weight distribution than just saddles on their own. I did move the rear shocks right in on the top and drop down to 30wt with kit pistons, which was better. The track is kind of a one off bumpy wise!

Cheers

hi, Try changing the steering track rod location on the centre link, this smooths out the snap over steer mid corner which leaves you pointing at the inside track marker.
I run 1.7 three hole Pistons front and rear at mendip which has in places lots of micro bumps that really makes the suspension work hard and the option shock tops so that I can get all the air out and a consistent emulsion damper.

The car will keep you busy chasing a set up for sure, weather this is a good or bad thing I am not sure.
Neale

Do you mean move the steering rod ball joints to the rear of the two holes on the centre steering link?

Yes that right, nobody seems to use it but it does soften the steering

Ok thanks I will try it out :)

Now I have a couple of shorty packs, I thought I would measure the front/rear weight balance before deciding what layout to try. First I checked with my saddle packs in (all I had when building the car) and the forward motor position. I did the measurements a few times, so are sort of accurate. There is a small margin for error though.
Saddles/Forward motor F 42.3%, R 57.5% (1570 grams)
Shorty rear/Forward motor F42.8%, R57.1% (1540 grams)
Shorty rear with 40g under weight/Forward motor F41.9%, R 58.1% (1580 grams)
I thought the shorty with weight would be a bigger difference, not much more than 0.5%
I think I will give the low grip setup a try first which may suit me better to start, as I'm new to this type of layout.

Hi guys. I ran my KF2 indoors for the first time on what is medium grip carpet. I started with the mid motor setup, 15000cst gear diff, shocks on the rear and 35g between the motor mount and diff housing. 7.5T motor, slipper as stock and probably not slipping enough. It felt a bit understeery but ok. Someone suggested that I move the shocks to the front of the rear wishbones, which made it more agile. The problem is I lost forward traction after a few runs on Minipin 1's, which made life a bit difficult. Other guys running 22-3, B6, YZ2 etc were managing a whole day on a set of rears, with some to spare and appeared to have loads of forward drive.
I have noticed that the static weight distribution with mid motor is pretty much the same as the other layouts, I was hoping the motor effect would help in that regard. I am a bit disheartened tbh, I am simply not up for using a set and a half every meeting when other cars are much kinder and just as quick if not more so. I am not sure where to go with the car layout wise now! Any advice please? :)

Hi stuey,

Not knowing what you have set the rest of you car, i would try to set the rear as followed:
1* of anti squat
2.5* toe
And/or may go a bit lower on rear diff oil
Rear anti roll bar

Try one at the time

Hope that helps, or someone els can jump in too?


BR
Mike

Thursday dms set up
 

If you would like Stewart I can give you my full setup that I used to run on a Thursday which was very competitive

I would suggest trying the shorty lipo forward, rather than in the rear position like you have it. For outdoor racing I run my shocks furtherest in on the towers all round, then when racing indoors I stand them up 2x holes all round to get some agility back.

What tyres also? You could go to cut staggers if you're only running staggers and as suggested above, increase the anti-squat if you'd like the car to rotate a little more.

Thanks young man :)

Hi Dan, the car is set up for mid motor at the moment (motor furthest back, lipo in front of motor housing) so I'm not sure on your first comment.
Tyres were Minipin 1 and 2 on the rear, cut stagger yellows front. I am trying to reduce the rear tyre wear during forward traction, side grip was fine. Cheers :)

Stuart can you photocopy a setup sheet for me so I can write my set up down for your Sunday

Try stripping the slipper clutch back to a basic slipper, ie spur gear and 2 pads only.

I run my KF2 with forward motor/forward lipo like this and its ace even in the wet !!

Will do :-)

:thumbsup:

I have been thinking of trying this, what effect does it have on the car? The standard slipper setup is quite heavy and the rotating mass must have an effect, but not sure what tbh.

The effect of the stock slipper is a big kick of forward torque .. a bit like a 3 gear I suppose .. taking some of the weight out reduces that effect.

If you want to try it for yourself, take out the tranny with motor and all still attached, and fire it up while holding it in your hand .. it's quite surprising .. you can then take bits off and directly feel what effect it has .. thats what I did ... my final choice of a fully stripped down slipper was because that was the most neutral of all the options .. :thumbsup:

So is it counteracting the torque effect of the motor, which in mid motor layout should be helping with rear traction? Or is it giving a big shove of forward torque, which would not be helping me with the wheelspin issue?

Its more than countering the effect of the motor, which won't help if you're suffering wheelspin and low rear traction ...

That is very useful info, I will give it a try. Thanks Speedy :thumbsup:

So realistically, to race on dirt I'd need to take the slipper down to minimum plates? I'm already running MM, Ive managed to mount my Tekin RSX to the rear of the chassis (between side gears and dirt guard- it's not pretty wiring, but the weight distribution seems sound).
I'm hoping it'll work...