Well, the RS Pro, I allready have so that's sorted.
about the motor-choice: as I still have a high noob-degree, I would need "soft at bottom end" I guess, so I'll choose ...
sensored anyway and tune up the softness of the throtle with the setup of my transmitter :)
This way I can still choose :)

thx for the explanation!

6.5 is a nice all round motor in 4wd, use it indoors and out... 5.5 is a lot more fun though

I agree with DCM on the 6.5

The sensorless motors we have are not comparable wind to wind due to the fact that our sensorless motors are Delta wound where as the sensored motor are Wye wound.

Differences being so large where as a 448 is a 4 T 4800kv motor but a 4T or 4.5t sensored motor's kv is much higher say almost double. The gearing won't be very close and the power that's made is different. I prefer running all my mods in dual mode. The motor is more efficient this way as is the esc.

In offroad especially dual mode seems to be the ticket as spool up is far more controllable(for me).

One of the amazing things about our esc's is that you can strech a single motor into a few different personalities to make it fit your need and driving style. Heck, maybe we shouldn't make it so nice, you'd have to buy more motors! LOL:)

Ran last night to check out the above settings.

After 5 min heat the ESC was @ 167f (75c), motor was @ 122c (50c)

Those temps OK or do I need to adjust something?

5.5bl motor geared on 18/84 using 4600 NiMH

how many lights were on the ESC? Thermal indicator. And did the motor feel too hot to touch?

Don't know :blush:

used a temp gun

motor was OK to touch on a scale 1-10 I'd say 4

solder posts on esc were an OUCH, that's what made me check the temps

can I back check last temp of esc if I switch it on today?

unfortunately, no, but when you finish a run, if you pop the shell off, the led will flash from showing the neatral position to flashing a certain amount of LED's, as long as it is below 5, things are good. On the RS, short track with a 6.5, I will generaly show up 3-4 led's on the thermal temp.

is this dual mode something from the newest software versions?

I have an R1 pro and a RS and I haven't found that dual mode in my RS

not sure if it is called 'hybrid' mode on the hotwire?

will check tonight :) (and update my ESC's, ain't sure if they have the lastest version or not)

thanks !

I would check, but got nothing to hand right at the mo, sorry.

Seems to me all these 'ratings' for BL motors are confusing. Is there are standard that could be adopted to allow direct comparisons across all types, Howabout using Kv figures, would that work?

The RS defaults to dual mode (hybrid mode) unless you tick the box on the hotwire for sensored only. Without that box ticked it will always start the motor sensored then switch to sensorless once its moving.

Since the RS was released it has always had dual mode so you've probably been running it like that without realising

If the sensor comes unplugged, or damaged it will automatically run in sensorless just like the R1 (whether or not that sensored only box is ticked)

I run mine in dual mode all the time, i find its much smoother and runs cooler that way.

Kevins right, the Rs is in dual mode as a default. Look towards the right side of the Hotwire interface in the middle and you should see a box that says "Sensored only." If you want to run sensored only you must click this box.

If you had 122F as a motor temp that's more than fine. I'd say you could gear up if you wanted to.

DCM is spot on though as far as esc temps are. The solders posts are our "heatsinks" so don't touch! LOL

Check the internal temps just like DCM said, that's all I care about. In wheeler on high bite you should see around 5 or 6 led's in an RS Pro running anything hotter than a 6.5.

If you are getting to 7 led's you are either overgeared or need to get some air into your shell. If this can't be done well use a 2nd cap.

Power Caps for the RS #TT3520

who stocks them in the UK?

non on muchmore uk site

Speed passion do one with 4 caps on a circuit board from demon products. I have one and RS Pro runs 2 lights cooler and the faster mod motors seem to be a bit smoother, about £18. Hope this helps.

which one?

SP98801 or SPAMSSC3M

If you can find some specs for what you need I can source some.

G

P871F
330
16V

Thats what it says on top dude!

SP98801-C01

I think i've found some ;)

G

Well thats not true as the losi xcelorin systems have pc connectivity for firmware update, customisable throttle/brake curves (tekin don't have this yet right?) in fact eveything you are mentioning and more, but they include the cale with the package, a motor and it costs less than an RS Pro for the whole lot.

The only bummer is that the firmware seems rubbish because mine won't reverse which is why I'm looking at whether I want a tekin. Not impressed that tekin are marketing the ability to flash the firmware as an upsell feature to buy an expensive cable though.

Most importantly though, does reverse work properly on a tekin? :D

I will have your babies dude.... price?

This has already been pointed out dude, but when the R1 was released, the only one that could, was the Castle Creations. As it is, the Novak, LRP/Nosram can't.

And, yes, it does reverse....

Do you know if anyone carries these as stock items? Fusion hobbies says 2 weeks lead time for the RS Pro.

Demon show that they have an RS but not a Pro, otherwise, you may want to get in touch with either Team Extreme or Much More UK, if all else fails, then look at America, stormer hobbies, tower hobbies etc

Thanks :)

Does anyone know if using the current limiter on RS/R1 makes the esc temps higher or lower?

it should make them lower

100% better with the above done.

thanks Randy, got it

4 came on @ the Petit RC event @ the weekend. No time for temp gun this time. ESC solder posts still hot and motor running warmer as it got a good work out on the higher grip carpet

Ran these settings @ Petit RC. Update TP to 4 via Nathans HW.

Plugged into my hot wire @ home and I'm getting the following with an error message when HW fires up

TA @ 68
CL @ LIM

CL now says off as I tried to see if adjustment would save to esc.

Did you update your esc to 189 yet? Did you open both windows on your own?

Hotwire on my laptop is giving me error messages which is a pain.

My R1 Pro with 4.5 turn was running quite cool at the Petit race.

Just reinstalled software and I now have 189 and no errors :)

After install ran it from right click & admin 1st time. Opened it second time from short cut and no errors :D

I'm :confused: Randy. Please explain.

Which 1 or both of the above in red is set on the HW? I can only see TA on the HW. Does it want setting to 80 or 20?

in dual mode, run timming set to 80 on the hotwire

in sensored only mode, run timing at 20 on the hotwire, with the motor timing (physical) at 0'

glad I could help there!!

Apologies, they never went up on the site but we have always stocked them along with all the other Tekin products and they are in the trade price list that goes out to UK model shops -
#TT3520 Power Cap for Fx or R1/S series
#TT3518 Power Cap for B1 or B1R series

Thank you.