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-   -   M3 screws seperate (http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15438)

sime46 16-11-2008 12:00 AM

This looks like THE mod. Could you tell me the drill size to order for the gearbox sides ie the part that needs tapping? I assume you go 4mm in the pivots that they pass through? Cheers. This is a good solution I think.

Oliv996 16-11-2008 06:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sime46 (Post 178946)
This looks like THE mod. Could you tell me the drill size to order for the gearbox sides ie the part that needs tapping?

A 3.3mm drill will be perfect.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sime46 (Post 178946)
I assume you go 4mm in the pivots that they pass through?

Of course:thumbsup: and a 3.9mm drill will be more than enough ;)

Northy 16-11-2008 10:06 AM

I could look at putting a kit of bits required together if anyone is interested? :confused:

G

glypo 16-11-2008 06:18 PM

As above, and yes I used 4.0mm on the pivot blocks.

http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/

They sell M4 taps and the correct sized drill bit together I think. They also sell M4 high tensile screws. Ran my car all day today at Newbury, took some stupid crashes and not even slightly bent :)

Of course if Northy could do it all as a bundle would be ideal. If you are going to do it, 10mm and 12mm bolts are needed for front. I've not bothered with my back, not really needed I don't think. If I bend one, then I will.

Swiss 08-12-2008 09:43 AM

I was looking at completing this mod, but wanted to ask some questions. I appologise if someone has asked them before.

1. Tapping a M3 to M4. so do you first redrill the hole, then use the starter M4 Tap, the the finishing M4 tap? Or can you just go straight in the with the starter M4 Tap?
2. Are people re-tapping the front and back holes of the front gearbox?
3. Do you need a cutting fluid of some kind?

Thanks

Paul

Oliv996 08-12-2008 11:50 AM

1. First you have to re-drill the existing holes with a 3.3mm drill bit. Then I recommend you to use the starter M4 tap, because it's easier to place tap normal to diff housing and you will do a better tap job.
2. Yes both
3. I usually do tap job with cutting fluid, but in aluminum material it's quite useless

glypo 08-12-2008 06:56 PM

As above, but you need to remember to enlarge the pivot blocks too so the screws can go right through.

And you never need cooling fluid to drill a small hole is basically any material! Cooling fluid is for machining jobs.

rcracer 08-12-2008 07:00 PM

doesnt it weaken the pivot blocks as i am seriously thinking of doing this mod as i dont think i can afford the upkeep replacing the bent screws :lol:

Chrislong 08-12-2008 07:14 PM

How often are you bending them Neil? Ive slightly bent my front screws once, and the rear ones only after a huge crash, and the car has had a lot of use now.

If they come loose during a race then they become more prone to bendages, so do use thread lock and keep checking them. i check mine after each race, its quick to do with an L shaped allen key - no need to take wheels off.

Chris

rcracer 08-12-2008 07:18 PM

Did 2 yesterday and 2 at york indoor series, i do threadlock them in and they dont seem to be coming loose maybe i am just a crap driver and hit everything :blush: i bent one side so bad a few weeks ago it broke the outdrive.

Northy 08-12-2008 07:18 PM

Are you guys using M3.5 or M4 screws?

I can look at putting a kit together if you want, never got round to it :cry:

G

footey 08-12-2008 07:30 PM

chris i now paul c is bending them after every run nearly

glypo 08-12-2008 08:38 PM

High tensile m4, and its much better for it.

chris68nufc 08-12-2008 09:14 PM

Im bending mine nearly every run. I would like to get a kit together to do it. This fricking car has cost me fortunes.:cry:

Oliv996 08-12-2008 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by glypo (Post 185345)
As above, but you need to remember to enlarge the pivot blocks too so the screws can go right through.

And you never need cooling fluid to drill a small hole is basically any material! Cooling fluid is for machining jobs.

Hey mate, please pay attention on the difference between cutting fluid and cooling fluid. Cutting fluid may be not only a cooling fluid, it also could be design to lubricate the tool, and it's very useful (especially with low cost tools) for tapping or drilling jobs in many material. Mineral oil is basically a good start ;)

Swiss 04-01-2009 09:43 PM

Run my car with the M4 screw mod on the front today, and broke one of the rear wishbone hangers.. Just a thought, but by beefing up the screws are we just transferring the force of impact?
If this is the case usrely it would be better to bend an M3 screw than snap a w/bone hanger?

mharlow 29-01-2009 11:10 AM

I have completed the M4 Mod on my Cat SX and have had no problems at all since doing it. Does anyone know where I can get M4 washers in 0.5mm & 1mm thicknesses?

Chrislong 29-01-2009 12:12 PM

The M4 washers sold by Schumacher for the wheels are 1mm (from memory).

Perhaps Nortech can source 0.5mm? Que G.

Jamie B4 29-01-2009 12:17 PM

*
 
Think microtech does these as well

Bungleaio 29-01-2009 12:53 PM

m4 washers & loads of different screws here http://www.stagonset.co.uk/fasteners...mit=M4|Washers

DaveG28 29-01-2009 12:57 PM

How many are making the M4 mod? Tempted to just stack up on M3's from Nortech!

Northy 29-01-2009 01:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Swiss (Post 192617)
If this is the case usrely it would be better to bend an M3 screw than snap a w/bone hanger?

I've seen one animal snap them while using M3 screws, so I'm not sure M4 is a great idea TBH.

G

PaulUpton 29-01-2009 01:15 PM

yep ive broke a few wishbones using the original M3 screws!

Chrislong 29-01-2009 03:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Northy (Post 202308)
I've seen one animal snap them while using M3 screws, so I'm not sure M4 is a great idea TBH.

G

I broke a wishbone hanger - the rearmost one, not the 10deg block. But I did hit a car flat out on the straight - the list of broken parts was long (but Wishbone survived!), and im still finding things twisted now after I thought id fixed it. :cry:

Northy 29-01-2009 03:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chrislong (Post 202344)
I broke a wishbone hanger - the rearmost one, not the 10deg block. But I did hit a car flat out on the straight - the list of broken parts was long (but Wishbone survived!), and im still finding things twisted now after I thought id fixed it. :cry:

Make that two animals then...... :woot::woot:

G

ben 29-01-2009 03:31 PM

3 animals :cry: Ive done a couple of the rear hangers with the M3 screws.
I did the same thing as chris and hit a car flat out on the straight, the broken parts mounted up... but no broken wishbones:lol: that was with medium flex btw.

Northy 29-01-2009 03:32 PM

You were animal no.1 :p:p

G

Oliv996 26-04-2009 05:05 PM

Here is a solution to avoid bending front screws:

http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/6636/img1182t.jpg

It requires to mod front bumper ;)

ice-nine 26-04-2009 08:34 PM

Nice job on that. Hopefully, Schumacher or someone produces that, as well as a bumper, as a kit, certainly addresses the problem! :thumbsup:

stegger 06-05-2009 06:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ice-nine (Post 234625)
Nice job on that. Hopefully, Schumacher or someone produces that, as well as a bumper, as a kit, certainly addresses the problem! :thumbsup:

It's in hand i should have one by the end of the week ;) and then depending on interest i will get some costings because i have somebody too produce them :thumbsup:

ben 06-05-2009 06:54 PM

We had a brace identical to that on the 24 hour endurance car :thumbsup:


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