Nice build! If I were you I would look at how the rear wishbones are fixed to the gearbox. Luke and I use a through bolt arrangement to clamp it all together. I did this by getting some 3mm steel bar and cutting a thread on each end then a nyloc nut either side, see below:

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/d...6.jpg~original

:thumbsup:

Thanks dazzieboy I'll look into that

I'm in need of some help I've for some stupid reason I sold my layshaft pulleys :mad: I thought I had some more and I've been searching and I can't find any. So if anyone has any I'm in need of some please let me know.

Thanks

If you can get hold of some Robbe M3x70mm bolts they are ideal for the rear wishbone brackets. They seem stronger than stainless steel too.

http://www.oople.com/forums/showpost...&postcount=475

Thanks Luke where did you get those from? And I don't suppose you have any layshaft pullys going spare do you.

Sorry, no layshaft pulleys I'm afraid.

I original found the bolts doing an internet search but they seem rarer now.

Try these on eBay 380752939988 or 261449629620

Thanks Luke I'll see what I can find. As for layshaft pullys I've been speaking to gomachv about the slipper shaft that he is makeing and it looks like the standerd one will not be required anyway. It sounds very good but I'm going to have to wait for one of those.

Procat
 

That's a fantastic find, enjoy the car ,the Procat was a classy performer. :thumbsup:

Post man bought me some goodies from New York today they came in the biggest box I've ever seen for a couple of belts
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...psimhhmeue.jpg
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...psoiovo5zj.jpg
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...psitjswpfu.jpg
I think you all can see where I'm heading with this I just need a couple of bits now and then well be good to go :thumbsup:

Have you got a part number for the layshaft pulleys?

The part number should be T or U278 they are 21t pulleys

Had a few more bits arrive today
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...psceqwnwga.jpg

I can't believe I found one of these that's never been fitted just needs a bit of a clean. Not sure wether or not to strip it to bear metal and polish it up

http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...psfsdye4wr.jpg
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...psnnkevqse.jpg

Its a complete alloy gearbox housing no plastic cover needed

That Wasp rear gearbox is sweet. The holy grade of alloy upgrades!

It's a MMS one and it's only just come out of the pack for the pics and the best part it was only 45 euros bargin for saying it's a total enclosure.

Just seen one on ebay complete car, what are they worth in good condition?

It depends on what it is or has have you got a link or item number?

151286069070
Cheers

It's been a while and I haven't really had time to get much done in ways of the Procat it's just sat on the shelf at the min with the impending house move. But I have been thinking about what I am going to do with it in ways of getting it running.

I have already got some bits for the 6mm belt conversion and today I ordered my alloy front diff hangers so it's got to come to bits again anyway. But I keep looking at the MMS Alloy gearbox I have found and am thinking of taking off my custom side plates and fitting that anyone with an opinion feel free to wade in.

I've also come across a couple of NIP MMS layshafts and was thinking of taking the fences off the middle to use that with the 6mm belt. Do people think that the wasp slipper would be up to the job or not?

Any advice or opinions are welcome

So the MMS gearbox was a bit tarnished from the years spent stored in the bag so I took it apart today to give it a bit of a clean up
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...psbqor10id.jpg
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...psjux4g1ln.jpg
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5bo5tdum.jpg
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...psb4lc2lud.jpg

These must of taken ages to machine out of one price of alloy and for £50 even BITD they can't of made much money on them.

More goodies will get some up for sale soon :thumbsup:
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...pspbuqqfra.jpg

Ok so I've got a atomic carbon rear shock tower and camber link for the Procat. And have been looking round at some old bosscat pics and none of them use the rear anti roll bar.
Was it that the bosscat was a more stable car and didn't need the roll bar ? And with the Bosscam camber link will I still gain from running the rear roll bar or not?

Ok so I managed to get a bit of time to play with the Procat lastnight and thought that I would make a start on the all new rear trans.

I have fitted my new rear wasp/trinity diff with some ceramic balls with new hex washers with alloy out drives and lubed it all up with some B-Fast pro diff lube.
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...ps25jh7gdp.jpg

Now all together with the bosscat slipper I will be useing both the slipper and the rear diff have new thrust races too this time lubed up with B-Fast pro thrust lube.
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...psaohx1age.jpg
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...psk1a8vgbl.jpg

And to help take the power I also found some high torque rear belts
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...psmkuvja2p.jpg

I also got to fit the new 6mm main drive belt
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...psywbbehtu.jpg
That should help with the reliability 8)

And managed to fit with a little modification my Atomic Carbon new rear shock tower and rear camber link adjuster ( Thanks Northy )
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2kiem16h.jpg

So here is the new rear end of my cat hopefully a lot stronger than before now with SX3 wing mounts
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...psqoj3s176.jpg

I have read in a couple if threads about boiling plastic parts. Can anyone enlighten me of how you do this and is there really that much benefit in doing it?

Towers
 

Can't remember the boiling trick but you should wet and dry the shock tower edges and seal them with super glue to stop them from cracking.

Thanks Chris I'll do that tonight :thumbsup:

I first heard it 25 years ago with associated parts. It seems to make the nylon parts more flexible. And of course, you could ruin your mums second best saucepan by adding Dylan dye into the water when you did it to colour the parts,.

Never heard of it with Schumacher bits tho back in the late 80s. Might be worth trying it with what are now old parts I guess.

I've been using a CAT / Procat hybrid recently with no problems in proving the crash back system still works well, with no broken parts, just occasionally popping a ball joint from a hub in a big crash.

In answer to your anti-roll bar question, I never used one back in the day as rear grip was always needed. I swopped the standard CAT back end for Top Cat bits when the Top Cat came out to remove the RISE bits in effect making a Procat back end and still didn't need the rear bar. Always used the front one though back then, but I've found with current tyres and astro I don't need that either now.

Bri

Thanks bri that's a lot of help about the roll bar but how long are you suppose to boil them for ?

I've got some new parts I thought I could use but thought id have a go at boiling them to see if it is worth doing.

I believe it helps with new components, of a nylon based material and the process of placing the parts in boiling water allows the part to take on some moisture - normalising the parts and potentially making them tougher. You don't need to have them simmering away, just boil the water, drop the parts in and let the whole lot cool down together. 20-30 mins. Parts will be cooled evenly this way.
Parts will absorb moisture from the air in time anyhow, hence it's mainly something you might do to new parts / wheels etc.

Thanks daz I've got some new rear works wishbones and hubs I might chuck in to give it a go anythings worth a try.

Thrust racers were ok when you took them out of the pack then :)

Spot on thanks daz I just cleaned the old grease off and put some new stuff on. :thumbsup:

Just sorted my new freshly boiled Bosscat works rear hubs and wishboans, another top quality purchase from daz75 cheers pal :thumbsup:

http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...pswqrrhf5b.jpg

And used another of Luke's great ideas for the crush spacers

http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8rcgga5i.jpg
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...psbjcbhhbm.jpg

Now I just need to start and strip the Procat so I can use my alloy wishbone pivot bracket to fit all the new backend together.

Nylon absorbs moisture, and the more water content in the plastic the tougher the part is. If you dry nylon out thoroughly it does become quite brittle. Boiling does two things, first it makes sure there is as much water as possible in the plastic and secondly it stress relieves the parts.

When the parts are moulded they are cooled quickly so they can be removed from the mould and passed on to the next stage in production. This means the outer parts cool much quicker than the core of the part, which puts stresses into the plastic. By boiling them for a minute or two then letting the parts cool down in the water means the cooling is much slower and removes stresses built up when moulded.

Thanks terry that's more or less what I did I chucked them in the pan still boiling then turned it off and left it to cool. I was going to leave it for half an hour or so but forgot about it so they were in the till it was all cold.

Can anyone here tell me the difference between U1214N the bosscat slipper layshaft and U1414f c2000 layshaft. I have been over bothe the cat and cougar 2000 manuals and they don't use that part number for the layshaft?

Those part numbers are the spares numbers for the standard Bosscat and Cougar 2000 slipper layshaft spares packs. So U1414F includes the T1461 layshaft and the two A401cross pins. The exploded diagram in the middle of the manual lists all the parts by the retail spares number.

Thanks terry again I've just looked through the manual a bit closer and I've just found it :thumbsup:

If you turn the shaft down a thou then the modern sx3 thrust races fit nicely and are much more reliable

I have been looking at the newer thrust races on eBay. I've got a sx3 in the shed that I've been toying with the idea of pulling apart and seeing what fits.

I'm using the sx3 steering arms which are ballraced ( just cut the outer holes off) together with a sx3 link ( carbon one)

I'm also using the sx3 lipo trays

Funny you should say that I modified these this morning
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...psncj3oxsl.jpg