So if the fronts fit the rears why on earth did Tamiya make that 2 piece thingy then ?

weird :eek:

Not built mine so not entirely sure what you are talking about.. but if its in the rear and it slips under load - which is the impression I'm getting. Could it be a primitive form of drivetrain protection, in other words a slipper ?
Or am I totally off target there ?
Like I said ive not even see the part so forgive me :)

The diff plates are indexed, so 'shouldnt' slip on the plate, plus, once it slips, it just gets worse.

The only reason I can thing of, is cost, maybe...

Is it possible to glue some thin sand paper type stuff to the back to give some friction on the diffhalf and stop it slipping?
I don't remember what had that but I reckon it was either my procat or an old RC10.

Before I ordered the one piece item I decided that when I built mine up (with the std parts) that I would superglue it together. When you look at the manual it will make sense.

I did that rob, I degrease both parts, used superglue, left them set, they still slipper grrrrrrr

ProCat Jimmy.

G

Looking at the KM-RC website today, they have removed the "Worldwide Release date 15th Nov" quote. And have listed it in their NOVEMBER NEW ITEM.

Still says Pre order now on the bottom of the Dark Impact page though. So it might/might not be out yet. Fingers crossed soon though.

The 3Racing chassis turned up this morning. Came already assembled. Looks pretty tidy.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...9/DSC_1049.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...9/DSC_1051.jpg

how much was it in total?? looks good though, just wish they had left a little more room on the rear of the chassis to mount the TRF suspension blocks...

lol, you love those blocks don't you steve.

3racing didn't want to play with me, but let us know how you get on with it. someone on another forum pointed out that side-by-side cells might short out on that ??

The cost before postage was $103. I grabbed some titanium turnbuckles too. Toal price including turnbuckles and 3 day postage from Hong Kong was approx £75

It's available from Stella for just less than £50. The uggo silver graphite is a bit more.

Are you planning on running the DI at the CML raceway Neo? I notice from your Tamiyclub profile you are local.

Elliott.

Hi Elliot, well I bought the DI as a project really, but since found this website and also heard of CML Raceway. So, ended up yesterday buying myself a B4FT. ALthough, im having fun with the learning curve invloved in charging cells. Just got me a Pro Peak Elite and am close to a panic attack figuring it all out :study: so as soon as I can work out how to charge cells properly I will be up CML as soon as possible. (any links to charging terminology and HOW TO's would be appreciated anyone. Please feel fee to PM me)

I am tempted, but I would have to heatshrink the cells or find a way of insulating the carbon fibre.

The reason for wanting them blocks is to take the suspension loading off the rear gearbox and give some adjustability.

I know what you mean. I have a couple of stick packs that im gonna chuck in it to have a test drive, so insulation aint a prob. Although race packs would be iffy.

can you whack a picture up of a pack of cells installed, to see if there is room for foam padding or something on the carbon??

Give me 10 mins ;)

Wouldn't you have to machine off the current hinge pin mounts on the rear gearbox, so you will be able to mount the blue alloy ones?

What cells do you have Neo?

Elliott.

Pic below. There is approx 3mm of movement I reckon around the pack.

Elliot, im using 3600's at the moment, but have some 4200's coming.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...9/DSC_1054.jpg

Neo,

when I was looking for battery info, I culled a bunch of info from this thread:

http://www.doughtyuk.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=1321

Elliott.

Yes, you would have ti dremmel them off, but I think it is well worth the effort, the biggest issue is the front mount behind the motor, but I reckon it is quite do-able.

they are pretty snug in there, aren't they, shame you don't have some sidexside packs to check, defo no room for corally connectors.... would have to go to deans.

Just out of interest, whats the spacing between the mounting holes on the TRF sus blocks?
Reason being, the chassis comes with a carbon spacer for the rear which is about 5mm think and sits between the bottom of the rear gearbox and the rear of the chassis

the distance between hinge pins is exactly the same as the standard TRF blocks, hence the reason for nagging 3Racing about it.

Nearly done. Not quite a TRF501X, but it'll do me :p

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...9/DSC_1064.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...9/DSC_1062.jpg

is it possible to raise the gearbox more withough causing issue's?? soooo tempted to buy one

I think it is possible to raise it without too much trouble. If you look in the first pic there is an extra plate tha fits between the gearbox and the bottom of the chassis. You can always fit a thicker plate in there and then just use spacers where the front part of the rear gearbox mounts onto the chassis (second pic)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...9/DSCF0002.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...69/Spacers.jpg

whats the idea of raising the gearbox ?

there maybe a clearance issue on a front suspension mount with the motor plate and motor, so it would save making a new motor plate.

In the Tamiya DF-03 shock kit there are four blue anodized metal spacers (it's a quality box of bits if the very smallest parts are anodized) that are supposed to sit between the plastic ball end links at the bottom of the shock and the bottom spring mount. They are a bit pointless. These pieces will fit perfectly where you've put the silicone O-rings on the hinge pins.

Elliott.

those spacers are there to raise the spring cups out of the way of the wishbones and hopefully stop the buggers from popping off...

Now, I am in two minds, do I buy the 3Racing conversion or an F103GT.... bugger

Finished apart from Leccy bits:eh?:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...9/DSC_1073.jpg

sweeeeeet

In case you thought I was making all this up, I've just uploaded pics of my DI to photobucket. They should be available here:

http://s147.photobucket.com/albums/r303/ElliottHopkins/

The paint is Pactra's racing red, rushed and blotchy. Minor hop-ups include Tamiya DF-03 threaded shocks, DI slipper clutch, smaller than stock Tamiya dish wheels with Ballistic minispikes (welcome to England) and (essential) 3 Racing Ti screws. Modest upgrades in importamnt areas thus far. In terms of electorincs, LRP IPC V7.1 (still the best speedo ever made, I don't trust speedos I could hide under my small change), Hitec Gem receiver a perfect fit, KO metal gear servo and normally a Peak Dynasty 19T spec V2 dalek head. All good stuff.

Elliott.

I had my first race meeting at the CML Raceway today. In practice, I had a little crack with the DI. It handled really well. It was raining heavily most of the day and when I got out of shape on a few of the slippery jumps, I could correct myself well. When I took a corner badly. I could correct it. The Dark Impact flattered my driving. I might run it in the summer.

(By the way, I haven't had any experience of contemporary 4WD cars, so I wouldn't have anything to compare it with, but I was pleased with it).

Elliott.

Weight savings?
 

Hi there,
I was wondering if anyone could tell me how much weight is saved when using the 3 Racing chassis.
Cheers
Mark

hello there,

i was wondering, do you run the bevel gear diffs, or ball differentials in the car?

and do these cars sound nice and smooth, or do they sound like the tamiya TL -01 series ?

ball diffs, and thet are a little noisey, but that was mine on full chat with the CVD's chattering.....

I reckon all the gears wear out quicker than you'd expect and the gearcases wear a bit too. This however may have been down to the dusty summer I had with the car.

ALTHOUGH, the noise itself may be down to the space on the insides of the gear boxes not deadening any mechanical noise.

Not much of a comparison, but my Associated buggy is much quieter and that gearbox case hugs the gears.

Elliott.

Hello chaps
Thought I'd sign up to this forum as it seems to be full of knowledgable people (unlike certain other forums I know of...:rolleyes:) and introduce myself. I've been racing off road electrics for about 3 years on and off, mainly on wooden floor at a nearby club (FORCC at Faversham, for anyone in the Kent area of the UK) but I have raced on grass a few times. I prefer grass, you actually have traction! :D I've owned a DF-03 since may or whenever they were released in this country, and been steadily modifying it into something almost unrecogniseable...:o
http://images.domino.org/d/90557-1/DCP_1432.JPG
It's got all the Tamiya hopups (including 2 extra heatsink bars), a cooling fan above the motor, full CVD's (including the 5 stars centre one which I found on Ebay), a mixture of Square and 5 Stars aluminium steering cranks and knuckles, and the newest additions 3 racing carbon chassis, front and rear towers, and diff outputs (kept breaking the stock Tamiya ones:wtf:). I've also crowbarred a Trakpower lithium battery into the chassis, aided and abetted by my trusty dremel and hacksaw :D I got the Trakpower from the rep as a sample to try out, it was one of the first ones in the country, workign in a model shop does have its advantages ;) Anyway just thought I'd say hello, and it's nice to see a site full of electric off road stuff :cool:
-Steve