Has any 1 got a set up for Coventry Astro track.

How mine ran at York Regional to qualify 3rd and finish 3rd:

Front -

Track Washers - 2mm front and back
Roll Bar - No
Shock Position Mount - Middle
Shock Position Wishbone - Middle
Front Rake - 10 Degrees
Washers - 2mm
Front Link Bracket - 43mm
Washers on Hub - 0 -cut flush

Rear -
Wheel Base - Med
Toe In - 3mm Rear, .5mm front = 3.25 degrees
Anti Squat Washers - 2mm Rear, 1mm Front = 1.3 degrees
Rear Link Bracket - 37.5mm
Washers - 4mm
Shock Position Mount - Inner
Shock Position Wishbone - Inside
Hub Postion - Middle
Roll Bar - Yes


Shocks

Front -
40wt on 3 Holes kit std
Schumacher New Grey Springs
Diaphragm - Kit
Ride Height - Wishbones level

Rear -
30wt on 3 Holes drilled to 555 (Losi orange)
Schumacher Kit Yellow Springs
Diaphragm - kit
Ride Height - Wishbones level

Transmission-
Rear Diff Height - Low
Front Diff Height - Low
Layshaft Pulley - 1 way
Front Drive - Diff
Gearing - 83 x 23 on Novak 5.5R
Internal Ratio - Kit

Camber wise, -1 on all round. As for toe in, not sure.

Si

My setup asof Dec08. Its an AWESOME all-rounder for indoors. I have used it at Worksop, South Sheilds and Bury (completely unchanged). It is the best I have driven a 4wd car, and with each run I seem to be able to go faster - as I can drive it like it is stolen and it just takes it.....

PLEASE do copy it (to every detail) and let me know your thoughts.

http://s39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ndoorsetup.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ndoorsetup.jpg

Hi Chris,

On your setup sheet just above: what do you mean with "Ackerman 8.2mm" ?

I'm guessing that's the distance between ball caps as showed on the manual:

http://img122.imageshack.us/img122/6756/ackermandy8.jpg

Yes he does:thumbsup::thumbsup:

Ste is right - I do! :D
The manual setting of 8mm results in the bellcranks pointing in, this makes the car feel extrordinarily safe as it reduces the turn in. The starting point should be bellcranks parallel - then you can shorten that link to reduce turn in, or lengthen it to make it feel more aggressive.

Make changes by a 180degree turn at a time. Pop off this link, put a turnbuckle wrench on it, then turn the ballcups round, both end by 180 degree. Doing this will make a noticeable difference on the track - so what I suggest (and what I did), is spend a full race meeting just making small changes to this for each run until it feels great then leave it alone.

Cheers for that Chris

What is "Front Overdrive" ? :confused: :blush:

Front over drive for a pred, is when you roll you can drive to the marshall :lol:

For a CAT SX its an undersized pulley so the front wheels drive faster than the rear. What that does is the oposite to what you might think, it tends to encourage the front wheels to spin up making the car feel less aggressive and safe.... that is from my experience. But on high grip carpet I could be wrong & it is more likely to do what is expected. :blush:

Chris

Edit: I am not certain if it is an undersized front diffgear or an oversized pulley - to achieve same effect. I can't find the part number in the manual. Will find out.

Edit of Edit: Found it
U3375 = 35T pulley
U3376 = 35T pulley - one way diff
Standard diff is 36T

you are only jealous that i can get to the marshall quicker than you can :woot::woot:

PMSL, ha ha. True. :cry:

Here is a setup for carpet/gym floor track I used this past Sunday:

http://img360.imageshack.us/img360/1...dammartqg2.jpg

Chris

South Shields and Bury, were these outdoor tracks? I repsume if you was going to run it with NiMH instead of LiPo you would go up 5wt in oil all round?

P

No mate, these were indoors. Worksop, South Sheilds and Bury.

For Nimh I wouldn't change the setup atall to be honest except for no lead. Your car may be heavier still, and after 1 run you may want to change the oils but by no more that 2.5wt (Losi Oil) - id try it unchanged firstly though.

Chris

Ran both my Cats (lipo and Nimh) back to back on Sunday at Kiddy. Found that the Nimh version ran better 5 weight lighter all round. Plus the lipo car reacted better in terms of steering with 7.5degree front hubs rather than 10s.

If anyone is interested i can post the setup in ran yesterday, track was at that slippy/shit stage.

Si

Always interested... Thanks

Paul

i ran chris's setup at worksop and it was much better than i was running .thank chris for ur help :thumbsup:

Your very welcome, glad it worked. :) I can't see me changing it on my own car until outdoors.

Help ! Springs
 

Hi Chaps, may I wish all the readers of this post a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. OK I have just built my Cat SX LiPo and reading the set up posts it seems Red rear springs and Gray fronts are a good starting point so I ordered a pair of each, however when they arrived the Gray fronts were shorter than the Yellow kit springs but hay if that’s what there like the so be it, until I looked at the Booth Signature built Cat because it also had Gray springs on but these were longer fronts and not as tightly coiled.

The Gray springs I ordered carried a part number of U3391 as per the part list in the kit instructions so my question is which Gray front spring do I need and on the Set Up thread which Gray front springs is every one using

The longer grey springs i would guess are probably the old schumacher range of springs, i.e cat 2000/3000.

New springs, grey or any colour, seem to have more coils than the old. If you count the coils and let us know, then I or somebody else who knows they have new springs will do the same and confirm for you.

As for red springs, new ones are blood-red, whereas the old ones are more of a browny red.

Chris

Chris,

On your set-up, on the front rake, you have zero washers on the top ball joint.

Do you not even have a 1mm washer? Just the ballhex right up against the fibre brace?

Thanks

Jack

Hey Jack,
Yeh thats right - no washers. I put the washers under the nut so not to loose them :lol:. The ballstud goes right up against the CF plate.

I also cut the outer hub - so the ballstud is 3mm lower than what it would be on an unmodified hub.

The angle of that camber link from kit is far too severe, the aim is to straighten it out. I have tried it at kit, and tried it at various stages and this setup (0mm inboard and cut hubs outboard), is by far the best.

Chris

Thanks Chris.

Another question. Trying to get your set-up I don't have enough of the correct size shims.

If I am 0.5mm per corner narrower (1.0mm across width of car) will it make much of a difference? The rear toe-in angle is correct, etc.

Cheers

Jack

Hey Jack,
It'd not make a massive difference, I don't think I would be able to tell on the track if I am honest - its important that the angles are the same which you say you have, so it should be very good. :)

Packs of shims are available, not expensive. Will look up the Part number. I ordered 2 packs with my car and all is good. Check the kit bag which had the Lipo brace, as you may find enough additional shims in there (intended for spacing of cell brace).

Chris

Shim set U3131Alloy Spacers M3x7mm 0.5;1;2mm (pk18)£5.99 and instock according to the schumacher website;)

Thanks stegger and Chris.
Need to order springs and turnbuckles too.

Jack

Chris, with the hub cut flush and zero inner washers is your link not angled up? :eh?:

G

Exactly what I was thinking, although i guess it changes the kinematics a bit.

Nope, its almost level - it isn't angled up though, that'd be silly.. and im not that silly :lol:

Can these parts be used for the rear links with the 37.5mm Rear Link Mount?

Part Number: U3214
Description: Turnbuckle Adjuster; Gold - 60mm (pr)

Is it just the colour that is different? Not a different thread or anything stupid?

And I am presuming that all the springs on the Schumacher site are the new ones, and that XF denotes front spring and XR denotes rear spring?

Jack

You are correct in your assumptions, the gold just defines the colour. I assume you realise that 60mm turnbuckle is only advised on the furthest hole away from the link mount on the hub?

And yes you are also correct with your assumtions regarding the springs XF - Front, and XR - Rear.

Hoep this helps.

Paul

I think all the kit turnbuckles are titanium whereas these coloured ones are just steel. They do sell the ti ones too, but about 10 quid a pair!

Can you use the narrower link mounts with the standard turnbuckles?

Just wondering wether I need to order any of the longer ones.

Yes, if you use Losi ballcups which are longer. Personally id rather go for a longer turnbuckle though and use the pucka Schumacher ballcups which I think are rather good.

From my experience I am finding that the Schumacher ballcups hold on well but they do have alot of slop when it comes to using them on the steering links.

Thanks Paul.

petit rc race
 

Hi,
Is it possible to post the set up used on cat sx for petit rc race?
Congratulations for Schumacher's team.
Great thanks

This is what i ran at Petit, Chris Bowater ran the same in the A final with me :

Front -

Track Washers - 1mm front and back
Roll Bar - 1.2
Shock Position Mount - Middle
Shock Position Wishbone - Middle
Front Rake - 10 Degrees
Front Yoke - Alloy 7.5 degrees (kit is 10 degrees)
Washers - 3.5mm
Front Link Bracket - 43mm
Washers on Hub - 0

Rear -
Wheel Base - Short
Toe In - 1.5mm Rear, .5mm front
Anti Squat Washers - 1.5mm Rear, 0.5mm Front
Rear Link Bracket - 37.5mm
Washers - 4mm
Shock Position Mount - Middle
Shock Position Wishbone - Inside
Hub Postion - Outside
Roll Bar - 1.2


Shocks

Front -
40wt on 3 Holes
Schumacher Blue Springs
Diaphragm - Centre cut out and removed
Ride Height - Just below Wishbones level

Rear -
35wt on 3 Holes
Schumacher Grey Springs
Diaphragm - Centre cut out and removed
Ride Height - Just below Wishbones level

Transmission-
Rear Diff Height - High
Front Diff Height - High
Layshaft Pulley - Pin Through
Front Drive - Diff
Gearing - 83 x 21 on Speed Passion 5.5
Internal Ratio - 32 Tooth Pulley

Tyres
Yellow Mini Pin all round, Schumacher Green Inserts.


Hope this helps.

Si