anybody know where to pre-order from?

CML still has no mention on the website



Edit. NVM found some.

estimated £200
Thats a lot of money for a shelf queen

MB models @199: http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...pre-order.html

Other places I've seen are pre-order at £229.

A little bird has told me numbers coming to the UK are low, >50, <100, with 2000 world wide.

I guess pre-ordering is the way to secure one if you want it.

Cml told me they had a good chunk of stuff coming. All cars are limited editions as they eventually stop. Both ae and cml have said they will have full spares backup.

2000 sounds feasible, if they sell well then a other batch comes I'm fairly sure. More than enough for us to race them.

If a&l do the steering it could be worth looking at, I'm just proposing a limited class to keep it fun and even, with a speed unlikely to write the car off. The cost to race might well be a £200 classic plus some cheap bearing set under £10 and possibly either a control motor or controlled motor and esc combo for a very keen price.
Racing is too serious generally - come to an oOple race and you'll notice a difference - when it comes to the truck class at the invernational then it's anything goes. I envisage a specific RC10 re-release class to provide some awesome close and fun racing - and CML are interested in making it work.

I agree Jimmy, be an awesome class to race, seeing a grid of these would be great!

As for esc/motor combo the Ezrun 13.5 would be a good cheap option with no way of tinkering to make it quicker

speed passion citrix stock with a 13.5 would work just as well

Do you think 13.5 would be a good motor or too quick? I've no real experience of them. I know people want to go quick but if 13.5 is similar to a 17 turn brushed then I think that would be the max speed you'd want out of one of these cars, just to protect them.

Whatever it is, I think they all need to be the same so it's 100% fair. CML sort something or I help sort something and re-label it for the rc10 classic or something then it would be all good.
If we have enough interest from people wanting to race to a set of rules then I'm sure group buys and the like wouldn't be out of the question.

I'd say a 13.5 will be ok I reckon on fixed timing, but 17.5 or 21.5?

But will people use high C rating cells to get the car quicker??

A 13.5 will be about the same as a 27 t in brushed but with better cells prob quicker these days.

Maybe 17.5 would be a better option

We ran at an endurance race (1/8 off-road), the best method in my eyes is to group buy the electrics (motor, esc, battery) and ensure that all competitors use that specific set.

Raise the entry fee to cover costs (a supplier should be able to offer a good deal) and have some fun!

I think the C rating makes the difference with high current draw? When there's a low current draw from a slow motor then I don't think it makes a difference but I could well be wrong on that.

C rating depends on whether the motor can draw the current, if it only pulls 20A max then a 25C or 100C battery isn't going to make much difference.
I would say a 13.5 would be as fast as you want to go with these, probably equivalent to around 13-15 brushed with what you can get out of them these days. Keeping the ESCs to blinky mode means you can use cheap ESCs like the Citrix Stock which have no boost options, but if anyone has a spare high end ESC with blinky mode then they won't have to buy a new ESC for similar performance.

They weren't built around todays speeds, here's the 85 Worlds open class, so modified motors and as fast as they could go. You could likely match them with a 21.5T today.



Might as well pop this in here as well, part 1 of 5.

JAMMIN!


Could do with some testing really - 13.5 does sound a bit rapid to me. I raced my vintage ride with a 15 turn brushed (spec motor) and a lipo and it was very quick. Would people cry if they had to use a 21.5 motor though? not enough power etc? Having said that, if it's wet with those kit tyres, you will be wishing for a mabuchi

be great if we could a trinity green machine to whack in
or the old style stock motors

13.5 was my suggestion as thats whats considered stock spec

wouldnt mind a 21.5

why not go old skool brushed and get a saturn 20t motor


oooooooo and jimmy im in

Personally I'd say as a race class vintage 2wd would be perfect. Rules are nice and simple - pre'90 for the original car, no slippers.
As well as RC10's (which could now include Graphites and CE's as well) you could also run Topcats, Cougars (but not Cougar 2's) and Losi JRX2's. I'd even allow Club 10's which are technically post 90 but match the build spec.

For tyres Schumacher still make the old Blue Spikes we used to run around 1990 so there is your control tyre - restrict motors as discussed.
That leaves you a pretty open class but the tyre and motor restrictions mean that doesn't really matter which chassis you go for.

Pretty much everything you mentioned would kick in the head of an original rc10 - none of those cars are available and neither are parts. A more general class was run as a special event at last years oOple Invernational - two races for two age periods. You can't have a fair race if all the cars are different and some just have better cars - and then you start going down the road of trying to fit modern tyres to it.

It's simple - keep it stock 100% and race against other identical cars for fun with a lovely looking piece of history. Yeah we all understeer into a corner, yeah we all suffer the narrow suspension etc.

I'm in
 

Ordered mine today and well up for some stock racing as long as it is stock kinda like the idea of a speedo motor lipo combo so all the same Andy

Gonna see what we can do about that mate, hopefully some news soon. Everything standard - and no little hopups etc - keep it simple basic fun.

Agreed

Team Pitstop was making slippers back in 1988/89. ;)

We had "modern size" 2.2 rims, at least rear rims, back in the late 80s as well.

Sounds good Jimmy, mine is ordered and I would like to race it.

I think you'd want something akin to the old BRCA legal sealed Yokomo can 27T stock motor of yesteryear.

Kit built standard apart from things like bearings, and maybe a suitable tyre for UK tracks.

Brushless is the way to go, and maybe a 13.5t is a bit too fast, so 17.5t or 21.5t stock spec, with blinky mode (0 advance) timing on the ESC.

I know Schumacher do a core RC Blinky ESC/13.5 SP combo for not much money intended for 1S GT12 racing, but it works for 2S packs as well. That sort of thing would be fine, but say a 17.5 or 21.5. Infact any blinky mode ESC is fine and fair, along with a motor from the existing brca stock spec legal lists.

I think my procat was from that time - it din't have 2.2" rims. I am not sure when they appeared but I don't think it was until the 90's from Yokomo - or am I mistaken.

ESC's can make a big difference - and for sure it's common to cheat in stock classes. If we can get together something cheap that doesn't even allow timing, that might be good.

I have knobbly spike front rc10 sized tyres - no idea who made them but obviously to race they would have to be readily available. I don't think being glued to the track is all importat - if it's wet then for sure the cars would struggle but on dry astro they won't be too bad even with 20 year old design tyres.:lol:

2.2" wheels first appeared at the 1989 worlds in Australia.

Before the worlds Masami and Yokomo had been testing at St Ives track in Australia and even returned home with dirt samples from the track. From this they developed the tyres and compound that would work on the track. Problem was IFMAR ruling stated that any tyre used at the worlds had to be commercially available. Tyres were made commercially available by Yokomo directly before the worlds started and Yokomo were even happy to give out the tyres at the worlds.

Cunningly no other manufacturers had anything near a 2.2" wheel, so they had no way of using them. It was a big advantage to Yokomo drivers, although other manufacturers thought it very unfair. Yokomo also released the TH-1 wheel adapters at the same time, so all Associated drivers could use the Yokomo wheels on RC10's.

I thought it was pre-1990.
But I thought the first Schumacher minipins were 2.2", and came out 87???

The old Schumacher 3x20 & 4x20 spikes are the way to go, introduced around 1986, work almost anywhere and you just cut the spikes off to suit your set up. Still readily available, only problem is you'll need 2.0" wheels.

This car has those 2-piece (not 3-pc) bolt-together rims.
Were they 2.0 or 2.2?
I thought the 2nd gen wheels were 2.2........

It was pre 1990 just;)

Mini pins use to be made for the smaller 2.0" wheels, as were all Schumacher tyres. I remember Schumacher weren't in a hurry to redo all there tyres to 2.2". But eventually they had to follow suit with other manufacturers, when they realised how much of a step forward the bigger wheels were.

Maybe we just stretched them over the JRX2 rims, or something. :lol:

I'm just trying to place things how long pre-1990, from memory (that's foggy), because it was Spring of 1990 when I retired from racing and went back to college.

Losi had their own tyres, and Proline had the "Reds".......... oh, the good ol' days of tyre of the week. :thumbsup:

No the wheels are diddy, something like 1.6" or 1.7". The sort of things you get on a modern day Grasshopper:lol: It would be better if it did have 2.0" wheels.

No, the original RC10 had 1.6" rims --- but I'm talking about the re-release car coming out, I thought its got those 2nd generation rims that were MUCH larger than the original car's.
(I could be wrong, seen too many pictures the last few days :D )

There were slippers before the Stealth box - but they tended to be slipper pinions (more like a nitro clutch bell) and therefore of limited use. Worked fine for protecting you from drivetrain shock but you couldn't really use them for traction control.
Stealth boxes didn't become available in the UK until the start of 1990 - I managed to blag one of the first customer ones into the UK off Ted Longshaw and got mine mid December 1989.
2.2in wheels worked much the same way - towards the start of 1990 Amark released pink 2.2in wheels for most brands. However except the very St Ive's specific Yokomo tyres everything was 2.0in so to use them we used to stretch out Schumacher 6x10 Cut Spikes over the carcass, which can't really have been better than a 2.0in rim.

I raced my standard gold tub RC10 with nothing except longer arms, one piece wheels and improved steering (RPM I think but don't remember) in the late 80's. Frequently my RC10 was alone in a field consisting entirely of Topcats, but it was totally competitive. That shouldn't be surprising as with those minor changes my car was essentially a Graphite but with the gold chassis.

I had a proper slipper, Team Pitstop, for my JRX2 in 87/88-ish.
(they made them for "others" too I seem to remember)
Came complete with a different top shaft, had to knock your brass idler one off the stock topshaft, and press it on the new one.
Used red pegs instead of diffballs in our Kimbrough spur gears. It worked GREAT! :thumbsup:

I can't see anything pointing toward the larger dished bolt-together rims you're talking about. This is supposed to be an original rc10, so it'll be small wheels.

My first rc10 was the championship edition 1 - with a 6-gear tranny and 2 inch wheels I believe. Really nice car but I was always more into my 4WD buggies.
MY CE2 since it was missing a couple of bits in the kit and I had spares - I built it into a gen1 replica with the short suspension, original tyres and wheels etc. It's just got slightly different shock towers and a stealth tranny.

I just "thought" I saw a picture somewhere, I don't know...... too many pics too many threads, I'm probably getting loopy. :lol:
The original had dogbones, while this one's supposed to have CVDs - so who knows.
It still makes me wonder though, it's not like there's a manufacturer of 1.6" tyres anymore - but we won't know for sure until people start getting their hands on them.



Wonder if I've still got that case of Holiday Buggy tires socked away out in the garage or did the wife toss them? :eh?:

I have a few pairs lol

Nah - I think we might see a run of tyres from someone - the moulds might not all be long gone. I hope.

Just gave Cliff a ring, it will have the old school 1.6" rims. I stand corrected. :thumbdown:

And I found the case of HB tyres. :thumbsup:

Jimmy in blinky there is very little in speedos, full list on EB listings, easy to check, not easy to cheat, 17.5 in a tc is fast enough but not savage, so would work well.

Schumacher didn't produce 2.2" wheels until the Procat SE and Bosscat, released in 1992.

That's the whole point of blinky and why it is widespread in on road. There is a fixed output setting that the ESC must match when in blinky mode, and whether it's a cheap basic ESC or top of the range model when they are running there is no difference between them. They are called blinky because it is mandated that when in stock mode an led blinks when in neutral so it is easy to check it is legal. The one thing that brushless has done is make sure there can't be any cheating in stock classes like there used to be.

2" minispikes were around 1990, 2.2" minispikes and microspikes around 92, minipins around 94.