The only differences between the SR1 and SR1+ are the + has slightly better fets, faster motor limit and comes with a fan. As far as features (timing ect) are concerned they are both the same, you can plug the fan into the SR1 too if you want.

I run an SR1 in my 2wd with a 6.5 V2 without a fan just fine, you'd be better with the fan in 4wd/shortcourse with big motors.

I never really play with the current limit on my Vampires, they are smooth/drivable enough I've never felt the need to :)

Cool, thanks for clearing it up a bit, really minimal information out there on these.

My only other thought was with all this big hoo haa people are putting on resistance is the SR1 has more than the SR1+.
Although I'm about 99% sure that it would be impossible for pretty much anyone to pick up the difference.
Might order it next week.

Well I ended up buying an SR1+, wasn't that much extra over the SR1 so I thought why not.

Can't wait for it to get here to run it.

You'll be happy with it I'm sure, I've been very impressed with mine this year, very smooth, but as fast as anything out there.

Cool, any ideas when the website will be up?

Yeah, biggest hurdle right now is the weather, just cant do anything, either always raining or raining and windy.
Can't get a gap big enough for the track to dry out a bit to get on it.

Another thing which was just bought to my attention (something I completely forgot to check).

Is there any plans on these ESC's becoming ROAR approved?

Just received my SR1+, pretty happy with it so far.

How do I change the LVC?

Since there is virtually no other source of informtion out there for these I'll add this here.

The LVC on the SR1/SR1+ is set at 2.8v and is NOT adjustable.

2.8volt per cell in LIPO as per email reply I sent to you (I think) late last week...

Yes, it was me.
I understood it to be 2.8 per cell, I should have clarified it.

I still don't quite understand why it's so low, it's the only negative thing I have on it, I have nothing but good things to say otherwise.
I'll probably just run an external alarm or something, I was going to sell it but I know with this, I wouldn't get enough money back to buy another decent ESC.

2.8V per cell is fine, if your cells ever hit that low in a race and you put them on charge straight away they would be fine, no long term damage would be caused. This allows for high current draw situations where the punch of a fast brushless motor can cause a voltage drop that would otherwise shut down an ESC if it was set any lower... We have had no issues with this at all here in the UK to date.

I understand that point, must just be something thats done or thought of differently on that side of the world.

Although I can't say I've ever had that issue though, of the voltage sagging that far.

I'm not trying to come across as a complainer as it is indeed a fine ESC, just wanted to understand why it's so low and non adjustable, havn't seen another modern ESC like it.

Hi guys need abit of help I bought the vampire sr1+ and a 6.5t v2 motor and put it in my durango desc210r truck but I have a major problem with the motor over heating I've dropped the pts down to its lowest and dropped pinion down to 16t!!! With a 87 spur the truck is running mm4 setup please any advise to get the temperature down even more thanks Steve.:thumbsup:

Has there been anything updated on the speedo since its release in 2011 ?

Hi,
Does this speedo have amp limiting?.....like the GM genius?

Jason A - as yet there has been no requirement to make any updates or changes to the factory supplied software, so all models still run Version 1.0.0, not sure if that is a good or a bad thing, people always like "updates" and fiddling around with stuff I guess (its in our nature) but on the other hand no patches, error corrections or updates have been required for it thus far, meaning no one has "had" to make updates simply to get the best out of their equipment since none have been needed..

Simon - the SR1 and SR1+ both feature Current Limiting (in terms of a percentage of power - 80/90% etc) and also feature the PTS (Power Timing System) which are the two provided ways of adjusting and controlling the power delivery

Hope that helps....

Thanks Darren (DMS)
 

Great customer support:thumbsup:

Love the SR1+
Fast Smooth & Easy to Setup :wub

Hello all.

So is the ppl still happy with there Vampire SR1+?

Best Regards.

Very happy;)

Yup, I have 2 now and the SR1 in my 2WD

Raced mine last night, i have to mention the brakes! There so progressive its like you can feel the actuation of the thing sweeeeet.

Actually I am really struggling with the brakes on my SR1+ as they seem massively overpowered no matter where I set the initial brake.

I've just about coped with the powerful braking (set on 1 = 10% initial brake) during the summer but yesterday in the wet it was undriveable. I experimented between 1-10 but it seems to make no difference whatsover... I know I'm not blessed with the most sensitive thumbs but pulling the stick back a couple of mm immediately locks up the rear end (2WD buggy)

BTW I'm not finding the instructions the most detailed in the world. If I want to set the brakes to 0% it says set it for zero flashes. Well there are never zero flashes it only ever starts at one. I assume eleven flashes = zero???

I even put a lot of negative curve on the braking through the tranny but that made only a little difference. Does anyone else suffer from the same issue with this esc?

There seems to very little after market support. The Vampire site has been 'coming soon' for at least 6 months now. How do we find out about software updates if they exist?

Don't get me wrong I love this speedo (apart from my braking issue) its so simple and most settings do exactly as they say on the tin.

Sorry to hear of your issues with the brakes, this is the first time we have heard this and in fact most others comment on just how smooth and progressive they are.

What radio are you using and what EPA setting do have set at present, if any?

For any support you need here in the UK, please feel free to come back to us, since we are the UK distributor for Vampire and we will help out in any way that we can. Sven and his team at Vampire are aware of the need to get the all new website launched asap and also acknowledge it has been down for way too long already. I have seen a preview of the new site and it is very impressive, they just need ot get it live now...

There have not been (since there has been no requirement to date) any updates to the firmware of the SR1 or SR1+ so dont worry you are not missing out on anything.

Regards, Darren - X-Factory UK

Hi Darren,

Thanks for getting back to me so quickly. I'm sure we can sort this out :)

I have an Exzes X and I will check the EPA's tomorrow.

BTW is this correct?

If I want to set the brakes to 0% it says set it for zero flashes. Well there are never zero flashes it only ever starts at one. I assume eleven flashes = zero???

Thanks

M.

Checked through my tranny settings and my EPA for brakes was set at 103% Is that going to make much difference? Reset to 100% anyway.

Can I just run this by you again?

If I want to set the initial brake to 0% the instructions say set it for zero flashes. Seems there are never zero flashes it only ever starts at one.

However the instructions say there is a maximum of 10 flashes per category but I count 11 flashes as max for Auto and initial brake categories. I assume 11 flashes = 0% then?

Initial brake is how aggressive the brake force is I guess. If I set it to 0 should I have no brakes?

EPA to 100% will help slightly, but your other settings are your problem

If you look at the chart in the manual there are 11 settings per mode, since 0 is the first then there are ten more (hence 11), by setting to 11 flashes you are on 100% brake as soon as you pull back on the stick, try 2 or 3 to start with (standard) which will be 10 or 20% initial then progressively working up to 100% through the stick downward travel.

Menu 0 should not be confused with 0 flashes.

The less flashes, the less initial brake you will have....

Hope that helps

erm... ok

So you are saying Menu 0 is 1 flash and Menu 1 is 2 flashes so on up Menu 10 is 11 flashes. That is so confusing for a start :)

Hang on that can't be right because I have my Battery type set at 1 flash (which you are saying is Menu 0) which according to the chart has no setting at all.

So are you saying to set your battery type as Lipo 2S (Menu 1) you need 2 flashes?

Confused..... :)

Battery selection does not have 10 settings though ;-)

My reply specifically referred to the brake setting you asked about, try it and see how you get on......

The flashes are counted for the 1st option in each menu, so if you have 5 options, the 5th flash is the 5th option. In the case of brakes, 0% intial brake is the first option, it is one flash, simple really....

Arr... I get it now.... So menu number and number of flashes are actually the same - apart from when talking about brakes.....

Unfortunately that isn't the answer though. I've been running initial brake on 1 flash all season (still locks up) and only tried 11 flashes in desperation on Sunday as I thought it might turn initial brake off altogether.

To be honest I find no difference between 1 or 11 flashes affecting the brakes.

M.

Have you tried turning your brake endpoint down after speedo is set? If you are running your brake endpoint on 100% try experimenting by turning it down and see how you get on.

Also, is there no setting box for this speedo? I have the Yokomo version of this and it's superb. The settings box makes it really simple to set up.

Dave

The setting is only for initial brake (the amount your braking starts at) not brake power (if that makes sense).

Also make sure that the ESC is re-set (now that ther EPA has moved) and make sure that full brake is set to only reach at full stick travel also.

Also, check at what point of stick tavel you LED lights up on full brakes, just to confirm they are only reaching full when the stick is at the very end of the brake travel and not before

Dave - no setting box currenlty avialable from Vampire for these, all setting is done by push button

Hi Disco,

Yes you are right. After Darren mentioned EPA's I thought that is going to be the easy way to solve my problem. Leave the controller on 1 flash and use my tranny to set brake power.

No setting box as far as I'm aware.. I wonder if the Yokomo one will work?

It does, but not the reverse, and extra settings (power curve) that the yok BL-Pro2 turbo seems to have. Breaks, current limit and timing advance do work.

Ive seen quite a few of these being sold, any reason? People not liking them or not getting on with them?

I love my SR1+.

Infact i plan to buy another soon (well when i get a 4wd)

PS, the vampire website works now (in my sig)

Lrp or Nosram, there is none that beat them

I love them to, I have 4 of them now and an SR1 non plus version. Smooth powerful and just work.


Why are there some for sale? You know how people are, always looking for the latest and greatest kit. Moving cars each season, heard about the latest new manufacturer so switching makes etc.

Snap them up cheap when people move on. All my batteries are second hand from people who like to change each year and I am not good enough to tell the difference but like them being half price.

I recently purchased an SR1+ having only ever run Nosram's, personally I reckon the Vampire has smoother throttle feel and stronger, more progressive feeling brakes.

Looking at buying a new esc are people still using these?

Still using mine, week in, week out