Try Axials tutorial
http://www.axialracing.com/ftp/crawl...e_install.html

Looks good does that, I mean the other link with the crawling photos. Is there any of that business goin on up noorf then?

Derbyshire! That's bloody Noorf enough for me!!

(starts regional war..) :D

Is Craster noorf enough:lol:
http://video.google.co.uk/videoplay?...45848&hl=en-GB

Considering there's a bunch of us from Manchester/Warrington/Chester with them, if someone can find somewhere off the M62 we'd be up for a meet.

The place I take the review cars is a few mins away from Bronte models - its a wild place sometimes like a scene out of madmax or something. More dirt and stones than rocks tho.

Sounds like HPI Baja Country!

Mines built :thumbsup: took it for a test run in the garden and im pleasently urprised at the capability of it, even with 3 cells at the highest point and no reverse for some reason :confused: i think id like to go down to the medium springs and rearange the cells a little better to get the weight lower/further forward onto the front axle.

For anyone wanting to know im running:

AX-10 scorpion kit - standard
Novak 55t
Mamba Max ESC
Spektrum DX3.0
Towerpro MG995 steering servo
Stormforce E-Power 4500 cells - there a bit overkill but im not letting them go to waste.

I've just got myself a CR01 :) Havent been so excited about building a kit for ages. I went for the CR01 as its tamiya, and it costs the same (£165) including Ems shipping from rc champ.

I've become interested in crawling, probably due to Terry talking about it at the club, and the fact that I can go out crawling with my boy at a weekend..

(plus the build looks really interesting)

Good luck with the 80 (yes Eighty) tiny fiddly screws that hold the wheels together! Can you say "RSI"? :D

The kit does go together like a dream though :)

80 !!!!
please tell me they are hex screws? :lol:

Not sure what they are, but at least they are self tappers so don't need as much screwing. My Axial super size wheels have 96 screws, all machine thread, M2 and 12mm long:cry:.
I needed to change wheels on my 2.2 rig for the nationals - that totalled 160 screws to be removed and replaced. Guess who found another use for a cordless drill with torque control:thumbsup: It still took me over an hour!

What's needed to run the mamba max in a crawler then? I assume none of the castle creations motors are suitable as they're too quick? is there a motor that's right?

sadly they are Phillips screws on the tamiya (hex on the axial).

The motor you need is a novak or integy 55 turn. There was an in depth review of the novak in racer earlier this year I seem to recall.

If you are going for a Mamba Max you might as well do the job properly and have a look at a Holmes Hobbies Crawlmaster brushless.
If you are going to use the Mamba in something else as well then use it, but if you don't need the extra performance most crawlers are moving over to the Sidewinder. It's half the price, easier to fit in the chassis and there's absolutely no performance difference between them in a crawler.

If you aren't planning on running brushless then I would recommend a Tekin FX-R instead. Smoother, can be programmed in the field and an amazing drag brake, and lots of crawlers are moving away from the CC ESCs to the FX-R. http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=105316

For brushed motors the Axial ratios seem to be designed around a 55 turn motor, so you have a choice of them from Integy, Reedy, Novak, etc. I use Integy motors, much cheaper than the other makes which is a consideration when you have two of them in each truck. Go to higher winds for more torque, lower for more speed.

I have the mamba on the novak 55t and its great, speed is just above walking pace and it will drag it up anything providing it has the grip, i can reverse it up a wall till its at the point of tipping over and the drag brake will hold it there with no problems what so ever, amazing!

Best upgrade for the axial is stronger propshafts! iv snapped a yoke already.

Erm, as I'm on a budget I think I will just use my Mtroniks at first with a 55t motor, then see how it goes.

I know its shallow, but I prefer the Tamiya because of the cool engineering / bodyshell and the fact that they've boxed it up like a true classic tamiya.. even the wife said the box looked good :)

yeah, can't argue with that box art :thumbsup: I saw one in a shop in Italy - almost had to grab it and run :woot:

What's needed to run this Mamba with the motor you mentioned Josh?
What's the most common method of weighting the wheels? I've heard of taping lead weights to the wheel inside the tyre, or putting lead shot inside the tyre so it always rolls round to the bottom (can't sound nice tho can it?)

Just wire it up noramlly as you would use brushed, red wire to positive, black to neg, leave out the middle white one. Program it with reverse, 40% drag brake and start power on high, works a charm. Best thing is the novak motor is only £23 from DMS :thumbsup:

I havent weighted my wheels yet but running car wheel balance weights inside the rim helps, also i heard that using hose pipe connected in a loop with led shot in wrapped around the midle of the wheel can be done, and that means you can have it inside it and still run foams.

Foams need cutting down width wise and cut into a star shape as stock but id assume the proline memory foam is spot on as it is in the ARTR version (also the tires will be better).

For future reference these are much stronger and are a direct fit for the AX-10 :thumbsup:

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/?CallFun...n&ItemID=14902

Usually using stick on wheel balancing weights round the rim, Twinset used enough weights to bring his tyres up to 380grams per wheel http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_m...=76479&sid=169 Many fill the tyres with airsoft pellets, some use ball bearings in the tyres, but these do mean running without foams. I don't use much weight in the tyres as I already have just about all the weight on my rigs mounted on the axles anyway, and I'm using the Proline 8 Shooter wheels which have cast beadlock rings which add quite a bit themselves. The Junfac beadlocks I also use have 100 grams of wheel weights stuck on them.
The ARTR comes with Prolines memory foams, they do make a difference and give the same amount of rebound as properly star cut and narrowed standard foams

The yokes can be protected just by using Axials driveshaft rings. God knows why they don't just include them in the kit.

Yes, i'll be using those as well as the 'pede shafts, the front wheels just got slightly stuck on a ladder and the shaft just clicked off.

I typed that post wrong, i didnt break a yoke but the ears on the male shaft.

Which is a relief as star cutting foams must be the longest RC chore I have ever come across!!

at the nationals, I couldn't tell the difference between Star Cuts and Memory Foams, plus the Memories are a nats c*ck heavier which is a bonus :thumbsup:

You should try it with a Super, the foams have a circumference of 21 inches (so a lot of cuts!) with the added problem that they don't sell the foams separately if you mess up:o

These threads are dangerous, the more I read about crawlers the more I want one. For a custom build one has anybody tried using a worm gear setup? If you could get a beefy enough setup you could use a fairy revy motor also you wouldnt need a drag brake as the worm gear would lock the wheels as soon as you let off the power.

I know absolutely nothing about crawlers so its probably not plausable but I was wondering about it!

Anyway stop tempting me, my wallet cant take it!

Pictures of my AX-10 for Jimmy :thumbsup:

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...rawler0029.jpg

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...rawler0027.jpg

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...rawler0026.jpg

Yes the front prop shaft is broken :( new, stronger one tomorrow :lol:

Nice one mate, yeah me and Mole are in the same position - we need one! :woot:

Dam right you do :thumbsup: only because we would then get to see an amazing crawler review :woot:

The thing that worries me is i could afford one in a week or two when some money clears. Looks like im gonna have to hide the cards for a few weeks.

Kyoshos new crawler uses worm drives on the axles, the rear axle has a servo operated dig setup so you can have full drive, rear locked or rear freewheeling. http://www.rccaraction.com//Media/Me...sho%20Rock.jpg
Expect to see it in the UK before the end of the year.

Using worm drives usually means you either have drive or it's locked, it's also useful to also be able to freewheel the back wheels on steep climbs, you use the front dig to stop the back end flipping the truck over while still freewheeling so the front end can pull the truck up. Braking the rear axle is used for extra tight steering and control on steep descents.

I knew there must be some reasoning behind it! I am getting more and more tempted by these. There arnt any places near here that I can think of that would have many rocks though.

Something to tempt you more. Peter Gray won a TCS Edge chassis for the AX10 at the nationals on sunday, here he is giving it a test run. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rGpyp_MuWDM

Been playing with it again today :lol: found somewhere very nice for crawling.

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...irstrun165.jpg

just wondering where is the cheapist place to get a rock crawler...??

which one shall i go for....???

:)

Cheapest i have found for the AX-10 is DMSracing for £170, it seems the best out of the box and seriously exceeded my expections today by a long way.

Is the scorpian pro worth getting over the scorpian when i wouldnt be competing just messing around? (damn you terry.sc)

The ARTR is the better one that comes with a few upgrades, i dont know exactly what apart from the bent links and better tires/foams. The noraml one is a kit and the ARTR is built for you, just need to add electrics.

I just have the kit one and today it exceeded every expectation i had of it. Amazing.

Well I am going to have to have a try on one of these, if im allowed when I am down in Ipswich sometime soon this month. I saw one that was in one of the RC mags and have to say its a work of art.