Could you represent Yokomo in this case and tell us? :)

ISn't it just like the latest B44.? motor mount. Can't be that bad if they are bringing it in again

think its brilliant :D

but give it 6 months and there will be a XB4-013 out :lol:

I personally dont know just applied some logic to it
A shallow rear as tall as lipos a new inovation from schumacher
proven shaft driven cars like the b44.2
Plus its a cat k1 therefor it must be a start of a new series of cats
Schumachers first shaft driven race car

:D Sure! The choice of pinions you can use with one type of spur gear is quite limited with this design. Yokomo has solved this problem to a certain extend with the new version included in the B-Max4II Worlds Spec and the latest WN version.

(imagine a 2wd motor mount with one small and one long mounting hole vs. the currently popular version with two long mounting holes)

I'm still using the old cast aluminum version and of course it works, but it is one of the features that really were worth improving. Maybe this will be one of the first issues Xray will adress in their future annual updates! ;)
On the other hand, the Xray version may be able to accommodate a wider range of pinions if it is possible to rotate the motor further - which again might cause some issues due to the cables or solder tabs being in the way...

This post is relative to page one

im sure we will see if your logic is correct soon (or not)

I have been watching out a long time for this one and although it has some nice features it does not look luxury to me. Probably quality is second to none, but composite gears and shock tops, bushings in steering linkage, no droop screws? I want to bet they will release a lot of tuning options for these...sooner or later, and they will be necessary to make it real bulletproof. Pricing is not that competitive I think. I do not fancy belt-drive cars, but if I had to choose between the XB4 and the K1, I would go for the K1 which looks a lot more luxury to me. Nevertheless I will stick to my FS2 for another season and hope to cope with the new cars.

What are the battery bars made of ?

Yes it is a really nice car, but.... :o
I noticed a couple of things it could do with:
- The Big bore shocks do not have tapered pistons, just regular ones. :yawn:
- The driveshaft’s do not have C-Clip retainers on them, just a grub screw. :mad:
The tapered pistons is no big deal as you could probably use them from another manufacture and fit those, but the driveshaft’s would need some shrink wrap no doubt.
Something for Xray to sort when they revise the car eh... :lol:

nothing new, just like 95% of all other out there! Show me something new with belt! :)

K1 :lol:

The driveshaft pins are captured, there is a composite collar that traps the pin, it is not shown in the pics for some reason.

I'm loving this car
It ticks my boxes big bores shaft drive and sturdy construction all with metric screws
I am looking forward to racing it
Not done 4wd for a while
This car will be my chosen weapon not the k1 or the latest b44
Be interesting to see how xray have done
There other cars are great quality , the xb4 should be well up there

Im hopefully getting mine tomorrow and I hope a few TD bits fit, at first I mailnly hope the springs and sway bars.
Wheels do so thats great

From my point of view it looks great!
First car were i'm really thinking to buy it instead of TD
(K1 is not an alternative for me)

Anyone know what max height battery you can use with the XB4. Ordered a cheap set of Gens Ace 6000 Mah. But forgot-that they may not fit! there 30 tall instead of the usual 25ish.. like the orions ect.. Any ideas on height at all cheers chaps!

They could fit if you don't put in the foam and use a spacer on the strap uprights

The build went together really well, my first xray build. Only bit that needed a little sanding was one front arm but that was very minimal.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...211_195046.jpg

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...211_195154.jpg

Tips:

Level or just under for shock oils, I did a bump like I usually do but they didn't need it.
Don't screw fast the upper chassis when it says too as it needs to be loosened and removed later. Maybe a couple of times

Don't cut the body on the lower lines right away, It can be like the early durango shells if you intend on using velcro on the sidepods.

Ahh brilliant thanks!

Yeah I thought about removing the padding and a few shims to help. Will get some better packs shortly. Its mainly just to test it all ect.

Thanks for the tips! Oh and buggy looks really nice!

Looks like you put your front shock tower from the inside where the one on the website was screwed from the outside.

Interesting you said that I did try from the front but the holes didn't really line up right. Ill have another look at the manual and see

yep tower is on the wrong side should be on the front of bulk head

double check your manual

LOL well at least when the tower is on the right way your screws will be ok to fit in the topdeck

Picked up the new XB4's for myself and my daughter earlier today at the LHS :thumbsup:

http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/x...ka/XB4/001.jpg


And I got some wrenching time in between pitting for my daughter.

Just needs electronics and shocks ;)

http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/x...ka/XB4/002.jpg

And YES OneKiwi has the front shock tower on the wrong side ;)

Bent

Here's a short unedited clip of a fellow racers first few laps with the XB4 built according to the included CLAY setup.

Needs a change of pistons to get more pack for our track.......but first impressions are butter smooth and tons of steering (even with worn out front tires slapped on just for testing.......)

http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/x...h_IMG_4123.jpg

Bent

Hmm its just a black screen with sound :cry:

Works for me :confused:

Try this:

http://s745.beta.photobucket.com/use..._4123.mp4.html

Bent

Very nice photos, BentKa! Can't wait to get mine.

Could you please measure the thickness of the plastic battery holders?

/Joel

Yep I out the tower on the wrong side... it went a little quick there.

Finished with paint so will be test driving tonight
Im pretty pleased with how it turned out, windows should have been pink and sorry for the dirty wheels

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...212_142134.jpg

Do Durango 410 wheels fit without problems?

From what I have read they do, But you will need to ream out the hole in the rim ever so slightly. As the Xray shaft tip is a tad bigger than the Durango one I think. But apart from that the offset and so on are the same, as far as i'm aware.

Spot on :thumbsup:

DEX410 rims from either Team Durango or De Racing will fit with a slight touch of the reamer for the rear rims only.......fronts are a direct fit :)

Bent

Hey guys, thought you might be interested in my body template files for the XB4 so that you can try out different colors and patterns on your computer :)

http://joppis.dyndns.org/misc/xb4_pa...hite_small.jpg
Download file (1643 x 827 px)


http://joppis.dyndns.org/misc/xb4_pa...ound_small.jpg
Download file (2500 x 1824 px)

Thanks XRAY for the file download section with high res images.

Brilliant man! Pure Genius!

I read that these should fit

http://www.rcmart.com/images/xray_xr-335030_2.jpg

From the xray forum

There is no reason to be concerned before you drive or even build the car. The car has plenty of hours of track tests in different conditions. Martin Bayer even used the final specs car in real races including the Czech Championship which he won, so the reliability was tested and is proven.

Slipper clutch - if you have the slipper clutch set loose you do not need to worry, the wheels will slip and the pinion will not break. If you however tighten the slipper too much (and this is what happen to those who experienced problems) you will create a solid axle instead of slipper clutch, the wheels will not slip and something (pinion) will break. That is common on all buggies of other brands using slipper clutch in the market.

Shimming the diff - Very Important - do not ship the diff. As mentioned in other threads, the diff was designed by purpose with a small play. If you shim the diff you will eliminate the play. The diff will during operation get warm and expand and if there is no play the diff will not work properly. Therefore there should be NO shims used.

Satelitte gears - they are made by purpose from composite, they are lighter and have better dynamic performance. They are moulded from very special composite mixture and have very good reliability. The same gears from same special material are used in the T4 and NT1 gear diff and the traction on foam tires on asphalt is several times higher than on a buggy track. Since there are no problems with the NT1 gear diffs at all there is absolutely no need for any worry about the composite gears for XB4. However if you want to feel more safe you can use the NT1 metalic optional gears #335030, they are direct fit.

Good info, especially the "no shimming" part. Build starts tonight :lol:

I've started building one of these. It builds beautifully. Very impressed.

dammmmmmm i have been lookin at this chasis if i wer gona race buggys i would opt for this as im a big xray fan as i have the tc any how so i know th build quality its always up there in the 10/10 range love it as it looks stealthy would not change a bit about it :D

this will be mine for this year . do need a prober spread shell do.
ok picture again not working lol