My dex210 kit was missing the thrust bearings for the diff when building the kit and I had reliability issues with the diff after running it a few times. The clutch pads didn't last long either. I have replaced the standard diff with a geared diff and use associated slipper pads and all seems fine now. It's not an expensive car to buy and parts are reasonably priced so i am happy. I haven't broke it once either. I can certainly see the points made regarding the specification compared to the 4wd and I would of paid extra for a higher spec kit.

Well just spent £14 on 2 parts trees with new oring nuts and one is showing signs of leaking. What a waste of money, this wouldn't happen with the alloy ones. Not happy in the very slightest. It's a complete joke, if this is the way Durango is going they can stick any future cars I've had enough! :thumbdown:

Where are they leaking? The orings should stop leaking or am I missing something?

Why did you spend £14 on plastic oring nuts when the RRP of the alloy ones is £12?

I couldn't find stock anywhere of the alloy ones so my hands were tide. They are leaking from what appears to be between the nut and the washer that sits inside. The orings are fine so I've had enough, it'll get ran for a season and sold.

If the orings are pressed against the body, and pressed against the shaft ------ where is the oil possibly coming from?

Have you checked there's no deep scratches inside the body or on the shaft ? or even a cut on the outside of one of the orings?

I don't think I've ever used the plastic caps myself but I have some on my new shocks I'm building. If the orings aren't getting compressed enough then I guess that could cause some leaking - why not try a thin washer between the centre plastic spacer and the last oring (or either way round) to press on the orings a little more and ensure they're engaging the body and shaft properly.

The alloy caps are in stock at Team Durango.

http://www.team-durango.com/part-inf...artNo=TD330023

FYI, I've never had any problems with either the plastic or the metal caps.

At £6 delivery I'll wait until MB have them. I suspect with the plastic caps you can't compress them enough. The plastic caps are without doubt the most moronic cost cutting rhing TD could ever do. The 410R had cost cutting that didn't affect the performance and in some cases made it better. This is just stupidity if its not broke leave it alone!

I just had a quick look with some digital calipers and a bit of macro photography - and the plastic caps I think press the seals better. The plastic cap on the body is approximately 0.1mm shorter overall than with the metal cap.

http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/misc/...dshockcaps.jpg

Like I said though - if you're finding the shocks leaking there's got to be a cause and the most obvious other than damage (which I'm sure you've checked for) would be the seals not getting enough pressure - adding a 0.5mm plastic washer or similar should help matters. I don't think the plastic caps are a problem - but like I say, I've not used them myself yet.

Now I'm going the have to spend another £14 to get the alloy ones when a retailer does have them. I guess I'll be lining TD pockets yet again. :thumbdown:

That doesn't take into the account that the plastic could be forced out by the pressure of the orings behind it which would allow them to leak alloy caps wouldn't.

I've got lots of bits here so I don't mind jabbing a screw driver into my shock to test your theory - with the last spacer (that sits inside the cap) in place. I have to say it's an interesting idea but having just forced a driver against it I don't see that being a realistic possibility. Just my personal observation and opinion.

I am worried that you're wanting alloy caps believing they will fix your issue when they might not.

The plastic caps aren't a moronic idea. They replace an over engineered part with something that performs the same job at a fraction of the price.
If one of your shocks are leaking there's probably an issue elsewhere. The red alloy caps won't fix the issue as jimmy mentions they are actually a little shorter but the internals are the same. Might be worth having someone else look over your shocks.

Plastic hexes. I've just replaced mine after a year of running. They had worn but I guess a year of running is ok?

Shock stand-offs. The all metal ones aren't cheap and if you are getting the screw version to flex then they can't be done up properly.

The 2wd market is the most cost conscious around, it's what most people getting into buggy racing start with due to low start up costs and running costs. We trimmed off cost to the end customer without affecting performance. Giving the customer cash in his pocket to upgrade as he chooses.

Adding CF, Ti and custom alloy parts adds a surprising amount to kits. Usually too much for us to justify. The 410 was an exception, one which worked at the time due to its originality. But the model isn't the same for all classes.

The manual was a little rushed but we try and catch with online versions.

If you are still having issues with your shocks try getting hold of one of the team and get them to check them over. It's unrest to have a 2nd pair of eyes look them over.

Just a heads up though guys, if you think that compressing an o-ring will make them seal better, they won't, they will spread and start to become unseated, they work best just touching the surface, unless you have square profile o-rings, but in all my years of engineering, I have never found squishing an o-ring to make it seal better, it only makes it leak worse.

DCM just what I was thinking probably overtightened I run with the plastic caps and if I find a leak its always from the top because I have over tightened the caps!

I don't think you'd say a floating o-ring that barely touches the sides does a good job of sealing would you Steve? If they aren't held firmly in place they won't seal too well don't you think. :lol:

Thinking somethings inferior and is going to leak even before building it - then stripping them out whilst building, would suggest there's been some serious cranking down on these plastic parts. Finger tight!

I dont think you can over tighten them, the cap tops touch the shock body so they will strip. That means you can't over compress the orings unless either the plastic spacers are too big or the bottom of the shock body isn't deep enough where the orings sit.

What's definitely making me think its the caps is the rest are looking a little wet, they're starting to leak not anywhere near as bad.

I build them the same way as my 410 shocks they don't leak.

I've not had any problems with either the the plastic or alu versions. However, I aways grease the 'O' rings with AE green slime, or similar, when I build them. If I forget, then I get leakage.

I can't believe so much talk on o rings and shock caps!

AE use plastic shock caps and these work just fine as do the Durango ones, don't see too many people complaining about these shocks.

Like anything if you over tighten plastic to metal you run the danger of it stripping.

Also any shock on a Rc car if you don't grease the shaft (shock shaft! Lol) it'll damage the O rings.

It's all simple stuff!

They shouldn't be tight, but not slack either, they should just about slip in, so when your o-rings are old and swollen, they don't sit in the bore correctly, if they are a dense o-ring, they will pinch the shock shaft and impede movement, if they are soft o-rings, they won't seay correctly and leak.

As for shock building, my Schumacher and Tamiya shocks only ever get built finger tight, as Jimmy says, and they only leak when something is worn. If you have cranked on them like a Gorilla on Speed, damage is already done to the seals and the moulded plastic threads.

I really don't think the 210 deserves all this bad press, Mine is from the first batch and has performed really well week in week out ever since.


The few problems I've had have been sorted by Durango quickly and free of charge!

One was the gear diff, I sent this back direct to Durango and they upgraded the parts, rebuilt it for me and sent back a diff ready to fit into my car and even filled with the oil of my choice!!


The layshaft spacer also crushed on mine, but again a quick photo, emailed off to Adam and a new one arrived in the post the next day.

Infact the Durango staff are brilliant, I have had a few phone calls with them chatting about the car and set ups etc always willing to try and help no matter what :thumbsup:

If your having problems, give them a call... you may be pleasantly surprised!


If I was able to offer any advice for the update model if and when it comes out my biggest recommendations would be to look at :

the wheels - these don't stay round for very long

The rear hub clearance - I have found these clog when running on grass and cause binding

Rear shock tower - this has proved to be too weak

In conclusion...

I don't think there are any more issues with the 210 than any other 2wd, its just a matter of learning the car and modifying it to suit yourself. It is a race car and I think it should be tinkered with to make improvements... that's how you get an edge over your rivals!

i cant believe all the negativity , ive a 210 from the first batch and had no problems with it . the ball diff is still running fine and not been rebuilt since i pruchased the car , my friend now runs it as i changed to the gear diff because he had problems . caps were fine only upgraded to alloy red 1s as i had the old 410 shocks lyin around .also turnbuckle plastics have been fine too . the only thing i was breakin was the steering link and rear tower but thats just me crashing.

i love all the team durango products and will continue buying and racing them. :thumbsup:

keep up the good work td :thumbsup:

The car as a whole is solid, upgraded rear shock tower as saw a few break prior to me getting mine and had issues with ball diff so got a spare one and modded the spacer problem solved!
The main issue with this car is the operator but that would be the same whoever the manufacturer was!

So, to summarise:

The OP bemoaned the lower spec of the 210 compared to the 410, and the errors in the instruction manual.

Adam explained why this was so and apologised about the manual.

The rest seems to be talking about a range of build problems.

Yes? :)

Just don't get me started on the quality of the bearings in my 2010 spec full-fat 410....

I just want to add that I called Durango uk about my missing thrust bearing and other small issues I was having. They were very helpful and sent me replacement parts without charge.

Solved the leaking shock issue, use Tamiya ones. The ones TD supply are useless, they seem different the the ones in my small bore 410 shocks that don't leak.

As for the sloppy ballcups it looks like I'll be going down the HPI balls and rigid Losi cup route again!

Really tho????

Different orings no leaks and kit orings with oil weeping from them tells me the kit orings are very poor.

The kit ones seem very soft compared to the 2010 410 ones. People can say whatever they want but I've had both to bits alongside eachother and its a fact.

My wording was crap in my post, I meant the shock end orings were rubbish not the shocks themselves.