Yup, he opened up the battery slot a small bit so you can stick a finger up in it to turn on the car

Never seen so much interest in where a switch is but i think it's pretty cool where he's put it on the X-6 :)

it's not just a switch. It's a switch that's got the be operated by Chazz :woot:

I see from the pictures that his X-5 also is running with the rear diff open and is using a black belt.

The black gear is a stock gear - its just the colour of the material which changed, i think the material has a little less silicone in it now from memory but to me it seems identical to the white gears.

The black belt is the touring car X-long low drag belt, the yellow touring car belt is too short to use with the dual pulley unless the slots are extended forward for the adjuster. So the only difference between the black touring belt and yellow buggy 3209 belt is the width, the black one is 1mm more narrow.

I have been using the buggy belt for a while now, but I am about to try the shorter/narrower touring car yellow belt with my slots extended & the dual roller. It all fits together fine still, will let everyone know if it is better/worse/same as before.

Chris

Chris,

From what paul was saying about the gears Brian was running that may not be the case... Brian had cut the back case and was running different gears. I'll let Paul shed some light on it....

Ah okay. He is known to experiment afterall :lol:

You can use the xxx-cr rear pivot block with the ajoining plstic bits cut off the EA3 is slighly stronger and they are cheaper to but yea get a brace.

A

Brian is running pulleys from his X - Ray touring cars in his X - 5. Its something he's experimenting with to get a lower internal ratio in the car; the diff pulleys are 34 teeth I'm pretty sure.

CL is correct about the belt, though; its the XXXS black belt, which is slightly longer than the regular yellow XXXS one.

Yes, I was running the rear brace. But, like others have reported, I'm having a very tough time keeping the thing on as it seems to always wiggle loose and come off. The bumper does not do a good job of keeping it in place. I remember this used to be one of my biggest headaches on my old xx-4.

Your idea of using a shock shaft with lock nuts in place while deleting the rear bumper sounds great!! I have some extra shock shafts laying around and would like to try that. My only question is how do you keep the shafts from sliding out without having the bumper in place? Do you use c-clips on the other side to hold the shafts in place? If not what keeps the shafts from simply sliding out? I know there would be lock nuts in place but what holds the actual shaft back from sliding out with the nuts on?

Thanks for the ideas, but If i could implement the shock shaft idea like you have, I think this will be ideal for me:thumbsup: I'm finding the rear bumper to come loose rather easily as well so if I can delete that even better!

I finally finished off my last rear pivot blocks last night so I'm placing an order for some new stuff today from X-factory. Can't wait!

Thanks again!

sweet, good to know! Thanks

Yeah, I use E-clips on the shock shaft at the front of the arm, in the groove for what would be the top of the shock piston. I find those E-clips stay on perfectly fine, as they're well protected; its just the E-clips on the back that get hit and pop off.

and FYI, the shock shafts take a 5-40 nut, not 4-40.

Yes you put a e clip on the otehr end of the shock shaft.

Something i haventtried but have heard from phil sleigh is that the cr rear hinge pins are the right size to go though the rear arms and the rear hinge pin brace of a xx4 and x5 and they have e clips on each end.

paul beat me to it :p

A

Awesome!! Thanks guys:thumbsup:

I have seen the brace held on with the top of a battery post screwed into the rear bumper in the middle that pushes against the rear brace holding it on.

That carbon motor plate is cool! What do the gear box screws thread in to ?

I think if you look closely you'll see there are some small blue nuts between the carbon fiber plate and the transmission case. The screws then thread into the CF plate. Those nuts help keep the tension on the case correct and prevent the carbon fiber (which doesn't hold threads well) from bearing the load of the screws.

Andy, if you fancy doing it, id suggest countersinking the CF, use a longer screw and nutting the side away from the spur.

Cheers Guys:)

On Alex's superlight X-6, we are running a 3mm CF motor plate. Our motor screws screw directly in to the CF with no backing nuts. First, we threaded the holes in the CF and then just screw them in. They are holding well and if any get loose, we put a drop of CA in the hole and it holds just like there was a nut.