Learn something everyday!

Is it the lazer diff your trying to build its easy do what the manual says

And your carbide balls you might aswell use ceramic balls are better but I'd spend your money else ware to start with

Buds

Its the losi diff, i did say earlier... thought the losa part numbers would have given that away :woot:

I dont have a manual for it but have looked on losi web site, the trouble is all variations seem to have a different diff :thumbdown:
Mine was originally a spec model but over the years has evolved into a mish mash model i think though the only part which matters is the fact has cvd's.

Again any help with this will go a long way!

Cheers
Alan

Link for the cells....

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Lipo_Pack.html


Look pretty good! :thumbsup:

Alan

2S2P doesn't have to mean saddle - in fact most of our saddle packs are 2 single cells wired together ie 2S1P (2 in series, 1 parallel). My 6000 saddles for example are 2 separate 3.7V 6000mAh cells which in the car link in series to make a single 6000mAh 7.4V pack

2S2P means that there are in fact 4 cells, arranged 2 side by side, and 2 in series. In the case of the 6000mAh pack linked, that means its really made of 4 3.7V 3000mAh cells. These are wired in two parallel pairs (each in effect a 3.7V 6000mAh cell) then the pairs are wired in series to make a single 6000mAh 7.4V pack.

So what does this mean? Well strangely it shouldn't mean anything at all. Provided you have a decent charger, it all charges just the same, performs the same etc. Its just a different way of getting the same result.

In that case is stay well away from them because there is twice the chance of a cell dropping I don't beleave in hong kong batteries id rather walk into Je spares/Ross mods or order of a reputable shop and pay £50-£70 for some branded batteries and be able to send them back if they balls up

I don't do cheap or second hand electrics they just let you down and then it ends up costing 50 % more than it should.lrp sxx speedo is by far the best value and come with a bomb proof warranty 2 years of piece of mind motor??? Again it's personal choice just buy a main brand one and you can't go wrong tekin/lrp/reedy/Orion /speed passion to mention a few

I run a 2 1/2 year old lrp sxx
Orion lipos 45c (new)
Orion 6.5t motor (new)

I buy new batteries every year this way I get to sell my old batteries on here for £70 then spend £130 on new ones same with the motors really

Buds

SXX is the way like i said :thumbsup:

You could always start with these cells,25c 6000 and cheap

http://www.rossmod.co.uk/product/307...S_74v_25C_2147

Yes they are cheap but for a extra £20 you can get really good ones

Hi guys,

Bit of an update,...
I got myself new radio and receiver so no more interference and the car actually goes more than 10m away now!:thumbsup:
Got a new hobbywing esc and a 10.5t motor and an 8t delta wind both used from on here. :thumbsup:

I am hoping to come on Sunday and give it a try, what general advice can you offer to a novice?

I will bring the xxx, its the cr version.

Some questions about setting the car for racing... (I will also post this bit in the Losi forum so beware of repeated info)

How should I set my car? Its in pieces at the minute!

Thinking the 10.5 would be best motor for me?
I have all available shock springs, orange,red,black pistons, few different size spurs and pinions from 14t to 30t, some mini pin type tyres and some softer "fuzzies"

Also I have a gear diff and tranny case off a truck which is supposed to fit, is it worth building this up over the ball diff? and what oil should I use in it?

Hopefully see you all on Sunday!

Cheers
Alan

Definitely use the 10.5t. Delta winds are faster than the equivalent Wye (normal) winds so that 8t is more like a 5.5 or even 4.5t!
Schumacher yellow minipins or minispikes are the tyres to use - opinion is divided as to which works best. The surface will be a mix of grippy carpet and slippery polished floor.

Update, I have decided to bring my older xxx, the -cr was too much work to build and get ready. The xxx never been run since a rebuild so was good to go!

I have fitted the 10.5 and had a few test runs up the street and this is well quick enough! Probably too fast for me on a track in fact!

The ESC is a 120a hbbywing v2.1 my guess is I need to have some softer settings on hand!
It has the mod software on it atm and I have the pro programme box for it.
Any suggestions?

I will also look to the electrics forum.

Thanks
Alan