I don't want this to sound harsh, but it looks a bit basic. Wow, I just can not start to imagine what we could do with a facility like that! :mad:

Great potential though, I'd just try and make it a bit less straight - 90 degree turn - hairpin etc. :thumbsup:

G

Hey Roger M, you mentioned that the BJ4 WE didn't suit you at all--I read your post when you had the car saying how if it had front turn in there was no rear traction and vice versa. Was that the only thing that didn't suit you? You really seemed like you despised the car in that post. I have had a BJ4 WE for about 4 months and I have been finding it very twitchy and nervous-I am not the best driver so having a car that is nervous to drive just makes it that much harder to get around the track quickly without clipping a board-even when compared to my xxx4 that I haven't run since I got the BJ.

We race on a very tight indoor track with lots of switchbacks and tight turns. Most 4wd guys run 7.5 Novak or Peak/Orion motors, I have been running a 6.5 Vector/Sphere combo.

I tried a buddies zx5 sp and that car has tons of turn-in AND keeps the rear end locked in--all using the out of box setup. I was surprised how good it was--it did feel a bit twitchy though, although that could have been due to the superfast JR servo and the radio settings he was using. I myself have a 501x World on order--super, super excited about it, even though there is pretty much zero parts support at my track--still have the bj as a back up.

Try taking some washers out from under the front inner camberlink ballstud, and/or adding some under the rear inner ballstud. That will calm it down a bit for you ;)

thanks for the tips Richard,

I did remove a washer from under the front bulkhead--compared to the Tebo setup. I will try adding another one in the rear. I have heard that part of nervousness comes from all the alloy parts--that the B44 is more "calm" because of the plastic, any actual truth to this?

I can't see that - just like the plastic B4 chassis discussions, I stand by my opinion extra flex just makes the car more random.

I believe there is a middle ground on flex, stiff is twitchy and unforgiving, twisty is random and unpredictable. The ideal is a stiffness that does have a wee bit of give, and this seems to be both fast and predictable with forgiving.... im talking chassis. I think material of smaller parts such as wishbones makes no difference so long as they're not rubber. I select that material based on where strength is required, and more recently.... which material is actually available.

Don't get me wrong, I don't dispise the BJ4WE ... it just is about as far away from the handling package I was hoping for as it could get. The car will be very quick in some peoples hands ..... I'd have gone quicker with a grasshopper .... horses for courses and personal preference.

All I will say is that the ZX5-SP is SO neutral out of the box that you can easily tune it to be almost whatever you desire.

Yeah, I only did a few brief, slow laps in the Zx5 SP I tried--but even from that I could tell it makes you look like a better driver!! Very accurate car--not sloppy at all. I thought to myself "no wonder he (SP owner) is so darn fast!!"

About the stiffness: Just like everything in this world, there is an ideal balance for things. Too stiff a car (old Losi BK2 graphite chassis) makes a very twitchy almost too responsive car. Hard to drive. Too flexy chassis most likely makes a car that is kind of random and winds up with slow lap times. Remember, this is offroad r/c cars we are talking about here--so the idea of a chassis that feels cut from a solid ingot of steel (like a modern Benz or Porsche) that aids handling by letting the suspension do all the work--doesn't really apply here.

The feeling I get driving the BJ4 WE is that you better be commited in whatever you do--if you make a wrong move the car will respond exactly as directed--there is no leeway or softness to its handling. It makes very deliberate movements on the race track.

I think I am going to go for the zx-5 sp. I just started going to the track and I am more of a begginer driver
How Durable is the zx-5 because I don't have money to buy parts every week

The zx5-SP is very strong. The weakest point on the car is the front tower mount but ali versions are cheap, I'd get one for the build.
That said the current plastic mount is 1000% stronger than the original ZX5 part.

Pop over to the Kyosho section and I'll give you all the info I can.

well it looks like I can't get any car. My dad said I have to sell me xxx-4 for $180before I get my new car which probly won't happen

And I am paying for it

BS

I have been running the B44 since December. I must say it is rather fragile. Last Saturday I went through 2 front arms AND 2 front bulkheads, that seems a little excessive. Never got to finish a race, no fun at all...so much so that I came home and started to put all my associated stuff on eBay so I could switch out. Not sure there is a better alternative to the 44, although the new HPI Hot Bodies D4 WCE looks pretty good, but not out till May. Some early reports talks about arm and shock tower breaks though. Just can't win...
:bored:

i recommend the Predator X11 :thumbsup:

its awesome! :)

LOL Andy youre my hero :lol:.. The X11 seems ace soo far to me :)

for the thread to be started it already seems that there is an issue with the B44 :lol:.. Stop being tight and just buy a BJ4WE if youre going to buy either ....

Why not go for the full fat, fully loaded, no compromise origonal - BJ4WE? :)

Pimy style richard :D

The WCE D4 has stronger arms and shock tower :thumbsup:

G

I have a B44 and have owned the lazer (non sp)

From what I can tell you they are both about the same durability wise. I have run both with 6.5 motors, on the same track, and I havent had any durability issues with either buggy. They are both top notch.

From what I can say is that the lazer takes longer to build, the instructions are not as good as the B44, and unless they changed this with the sp, you need to buy the hex head screw update.

The cars are equal in my book, with the exception of 2 things. 1- The Kyosho's shocks are easy to build and are incredibly smooth. I Like them way better than AE's shocks. 2- The parts for the B44 are much easier to find and the LHS has many in stock. The shock, transmission, and many other miscleanous parts and fastners are compatiable between my B44 and the other associated products.