Had a B4, hated it. Quick, but soulless. Not fun to drive in the same way the Team car is. Sold it to StampedeVXLboy for those older ooplers!
So far no mechanical faults on the team car. Few problems with the rear suspension on the truck like that which caused the DNF, but I've replaced the shonky 'upgrade' suspension arms with original ones and it seems to be sorted.

Put it this way - my Bmax is working really well, but I haven't raced it in weeks. The RC10 is just more fun.

si doesent get on with b4s and to be fair ive driven his rc10 and it feels realy good.

Also you weren't running 2wd the week before when the final consisted of a B4, B3, B2 and my team car, all lined up in age order, oldest first, plus a Mad Monkey at the rear.
The win went to the B2 cos I drive really badly in the final.

I never mentioned that Si car is not any good the OP wanted a opinion on what first 2wd to get the B4 was just my suggestion. But there is no point claiming you won a final when he clearly did not:p

that b4 trt seems like a steal to be honest looked at escs and brushless moters and id say a decent setup would cost around 150quid by itself

Its a good starting point buddy.

Then you can get better electrics as you go. Get it bit by bit.

I started out with the b4.1 rtr and it wasn't long before I upgraded the electrics as I found it majorly slow!! Can fault the radio gear though never had a single glitch!

Problem with the .1 b4 is that all the plastic contains carbon to "strengthen" it! All it does is make it more brittle so things like rear shock towers and front wishbones were snapping all day long. Alot of the .1 owners were sticking the older b4 bits on as they are more flexible!

That said it's a bargain to get out racing with and would suggest buying a few spares along with it

Plus dark blue front springs silver rears, some weight over the front end

Also I think it can be had for under £200

under £200quids? sounds good to me :)

We've got B4.1 RTR's running at Bury in stock form and they really don't look slow, but even if it isn't as quick as you'd like from the box the esc is capable of handling up to 6000kV which is more motor than you'd want in a 2wd anyway. It is sensorless, so you'll find it less smooth on slow corners, but our outdoors track doesn't have a lot of them!
There really was no need to Captain Lip to replace every part of his RTR - it was perfectly decent as stock.

whats the deal with these Lipo batteries, how do they work and how long do they last. I dont drive so fancy getting one/ or how ever many it takes to last all day, any suggestions?

You definately want lipos. How long a pack lasts does depend on the car, gearing, how you drive etc, and also on how many rounds of qualifying we get in a day.
In theory 2 packs of around 5000mAh ought be be plenty for a 2wd with a sensible motor.

ok great, x-6 with a 6.5 , and an aggressive driver :thumbsup:

And an instant bannage haha! :p

You'll only need 1 pack then. You'll spend more time broken than driving!

haha yeah, then another 3 years break from racing :D

Be good to see you again mate :thumbsup:

You still on same mob number ending 470 ?

hey mike, didnt think you were still bashing, new number mate will PM let me know when you next around.

just another quick question.. what Turn brushless motors are people using at bury? my dad has got me the schumacher couger as a graduation present so thats the chassis ill be running with. also the radio gear ill be getting for now is the ainsman 2.4ghz one thats on offer at JE spares atm just need to make a decision on ESC and motor looked at this Orca Q Spark Brushless Combo?

For a beginner I'd be looking at a 10.5t and when you finally stop breaking stuff and crashing move upto a 7.5t