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Mine didn't arrive :thumbdown::thumbdown: wasn't shipped to my LHS :cry: won't be here until next tuesday ! |
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If you're running the Xcelorin 96mm lipo, you can turn it back round (a la rear config) and it'll hold the front of the battery and stop it from moving from side to side - not that it can move very far - especially with 2 dirty great velcro straps holding the poor little bugger down :-) Looks like D20MCK's rear config car has the forward tray round the wrong way though? Looking good though Birdy and D20MCK. Tidy paint job on CJ's (Delves) shell - no one can wonder there eh:woot: |
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You have to remove the battery brace. I tried mounting it on the plate above the motor, but the shell doesn't fit properly. |
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Yeah I think ESC forward is the way. I have the stubby LiPo and will probably get a low profile servo, should be a doddle.
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Seriously, the mid car is tight for install space - but there are options that have already crossed my mind - most of which involve fabricating some form of small shelf to sit either the ESC or most likely the Rx above the battery. Having said all that, we did manage to fit all the electronics on the chassis plate during testing so it can be done - Kit's install looks pretty good. |
Quick question guys regarding the diff. When looking from the rear of the car what side should the diff adjusting screw be on? I've built it how it says in the manual but this step was a little unclear (drawing). Anyway it works out that my diff screw is on the RHS where as on my X6 which has the same motor/gearbox config the adjustment is made on the LHS. Just want to make sure before I bolt the gearbox in, don't want the diff undoing itself.
Cheers chaps. |
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yep, I'm running a normal servo and it makes everything a bit tight. |
Theres a lot of talk in this thread and not a lot of pics
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Hi all
All ive done to mine is build it going to take my time getting everything together need new lipo's and tyres and getting shell painted etc. But here it is as a roller.. Only thing i found frustrating about the build was the front hub assembly the screws where tight and the spacers where just annoying! But the shocks! O my god old losi shocks where good but these are in a world of there own! so easy to bleed and build to!! Very impressed with my 22.. http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/450/dscf4777h.jpg http://img847.imageshack.us/img847/9161/dscf4778.jpg http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/8577/dscf4779v.jpg 22 the losi that was supposidly not coming : ) I stayed faithful! A |
Oh, don't cut the motor side of the shell until you fit it, as its not always neccessary to cut it to the lines.
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Just a few pic's. need to get the rattle cans out and glue some tyres :thumbsup:
There's a Tekin RS in there......honest :lol::lol: http://www.rosswhitelock-photography...98_FdEt8-M.jpg http://www.rosswhitelock-photography...20_UR6Yw-M.jpg http://www.rosswhitelock-photography...01_wZC3G-M.jpg http://www.rosswhitelock-photography...69_S75LX-M.jpg http://www.rosswhitelock-photography...80_VLqEa-M.jpg |
Here's my contribution - even with the low profile servo it was a bit too tight to fit my receiver and Speed Passion GT2 esc up front, so I mounted the receiver at the rear.
http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/...g?t=1300575912 |
Here's mine, Novak GTB and Futaba R603FS, so not exactly the smallest electronics. I put the GTB up high on the plate at the back, the Futaba receiver just fit between the battery support and the full size servo. Fitting everything to the chassis wasn't too bad, but the body is such a close fit around the back it just touches the ESC heat sink and is hard against the capacitor. There's also very little space for making the connections to the motor, it may have been better if I'd run the wires out the bottom of the speedo.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_2...0/IMG_0812.JPG |
Have you tried it with the shell on to?
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