Here are the Outdrives 51286 by Tamiya:

http://www.vellrip.com/store/product...asp?p=983&c=47

thx Muratti ;)

You only really need steel outdrives when you put more than a 13.5 in there.
CVD's on the front.
Slipper.
Aluminium suspension mount.

Thats the essentials over a stock kit.

then get shocks (Tamiya are best, but B4 ones fit)
Losi wheels fit
rear CVD's
Bearings for the steering
Better diff balls and thrust race.

well guys, thx for all info.
I bought the car online (modellbau-seidel.de, delivery within 3 days!). It became a DB-01R.
The build was a breese (Tamiya-quality :) ) and as my son was not racing this weekend, I tried the car myself.
It was the stock setup, and on a full astroturf indoortrack so the setup was much too soft.
But with a little adjusting the car became very fun to drive.
It is just faboulous, knowing that you are competing with a plastic € 230,00-car againts much pricier carbon cars :)

Just as i told you. Was a pleasure for me helping you. The DB01R is indeed a very competitive car!

just a litle update on my DB-01-adventure.

I raced the car at the BlackCountryArena in Charleroi, Belgium the past weekend. It is an indoor astrotrack.
I added the yellow rollbars front and rear. Shockoil 60 Fr and35 R (Losi)
blue springs in the Front
Shum Yellow Minispikes as we run usually on this track.

I have raced 4WD before with a Predator. I improved over time and learned a lot about setup.
But I never got further then D or C-final (we only have 4 finals usually).
This time, with the DB-01 I BQ'd :p and still found that I was going slow. :eh?:
I like that little plastic low-budget car :)

It is an awesome car to run!

Btw, I broke 3 out of 4 of the included high-traction arms that come with the DB-01R within about 5 practice sessions. Both rear arms broke on the same pack (as far as I can tell). Nothing crazy, normal track driving, with some bad landings here and there.

The TRF501X arms are much stronger, and the DB-01 arms are cheap, and strong but slightly flexible. The softer plastic doesn't hold screw threads as well, so I would recommend drilling in the shock mounting holes with a 2.5mm drill bit to extend the screw holes further. The outermost and innermost holes can go all the way through the other side. The middle hole can be deepened another 4mm so you can use a longer (15mm) screw.

I agree with the high traction arms, but the kit DB-01 arms, never had an issue with pulling threads, apart from old age!

I used to break several high traction arms until I stiffened my shocks a bit.. I was running my shocks too soft and bottoming out on landings too often. The high traction arms will snap pretty easy when this happens.. Try switching to higher tension springs with the same oil and see if the problem goes away.. I used Team Associated springs which had a better feel for the hard pack dirt tracks I race on..

Stiffening the springs actually helped my driving compared to the softer spring settings I was using before.

what are the differences (benefits, changes in car-behaviour) when using ...

... the dual slipper over the simple slipper?

... the front One-Way

... centre One-way

are these items vital, important or just an expensive gizmo?

Double slipper: I find it a little nicer landing from jumps than a single, not much difference though!?

Not sure on the one ways!!

Would anyone be interested in a DB01R by the way!? Might sell mine, either standard + double slipper + 511 outdrives + Ali steering arms plus atomic shock towers, or with all that plus hopups including gold shock bodies and shock shafts, blue turnbuckles!?

It has a Tonys screws set on it too, and the shell is uncut/unpainted