Well, if yours aren't aluminium, yours are the dodgy ones (in a good way) :woot:

As already said (and as you noticed too), they are advertised to be aluminium:

http://os.3racing.hk/products.php?products_key=2844

And no, I haven't got a dodgy batch since I skipped them as they said they are aluminium which wouldn't last as long as steel ones. So I never tried them.

On order!
 

Just ordered a DB01-R from eModels...

http://www.emodels.co.uk/plastic-kit...0-p-22117.html

Getting the R kit is a no-brainer considering the basic Durga is £200

If your going to spend £200 you might as well go the whole hog and get a 511 or a second hand 501

you wont regret it,
get some hex screws, Tonys screws are top quality
enjoy the build

Thanks. Yep, ordered the screws and diff outdrives off eBay.

Finally, completed my mate's DB-01R complete with sweet shell by RCS Graphic Worx (left)

The Baldre shell is definitely better than the Durga. It seals everything in well.

I'm not liking the slop in the steering though and the diffs came loose last time we ran it.

The front Rulux wheels are a pain too. We've put 0.4mm worth of washers behind the pin to see if that helps.

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...l/IMG_0487.jpg

The Rulux wheels are designed for the thicker BJ4/B44 hex which is why they bind on Tamiya's.
Have a quick search on here as I'm sure someone gave details of how they fitted B44 hexes to their 501/511 and it'll be the same as the DB01.

Thanks, I'll do that.

Here's a photo with the top off. Hop-ups include 3-Racing alloy diff halves, ceramic balls, rubber sealed bearings and belt tensioners.

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...l/IMG_0490.jpg

I've never raced the DB01 or Rulux wheels, but I believe flipping the hex around will give enough clearance for Rulux wheels to work. Dont hold me up if it dosent work, but I've seen the tip in use before, I just cant remember which car it was on...definately a Tamiya though.

diff plates
 

Would anyone happen to know if there is any difference in the diff plates supplied with the DB01R kit and the 501x ones (51287) e.g. harder?

Diff plates are the same, although Tamiya sells a hop-upped diff plate that has a bigger radius.

Racing the DB01 is great but I've broken two rear towers already, on what I consider light crashes, one broke on a simple rollover. The rear tower is week, and I would highly recommend the Atomic carbon tower, or aluminum towers found on ebay.

I never had a problem with the standart front or rear towers breaking but I highly recommend the Atomic carbon towers espacially with the TRF shocks as the rear tower offers more setup options. Also I just cant imagine how somebody could brake these useing them for regular racing.

I've been racing a DB-01 with Rulux wheels for years now.. The wheels have always fit for me with no rubbing or binding.. It could be a combination of parts I am using that make this possible.. The hop-up parts I run for the front arm assembly are:

Tamiya Wide Operating Front CVD's

Tamiya 12deg Front Castor Blocks

BOCA Yellow Seal ceramic bearings (this should not matter since bearing dimensions are consistent)

Tobee Craft direct replacement front hexes (blue anodized)

Tobee Craft used to make a 'direct replacement' front hex for the DB-01 (not the 12mm hex). It appears to me that they are perfect copies, but it is possible they could be a hair thicker than the stock Tamiya hex. I am not sure if these make any difference over the stock hex.

Sadly, I have not seen the direct replacement hexes for sale for quite some time now.. It appears that Tobee Craft discontinued them??

Hope this helps.

DB01R kit comes stock with the metal outdrives but plastic diff ring holder. On the 501X this is one strong metal piece that seems to last forever also in comparison to the 3 racing one piece outdrives.
I highly recommend the 501X outdrives if you drive brushless.
Diff plates are the same as 501X. There are no harder ones.