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I broke mine just tightening the wheels too much, woody broke his on an impact. The hotbodies ones need drilling and the rear just sanding lightly so the pin will go thru easier.
As for ball cups I've given up! first it was serpent ones - which I broke at the Euros.. so I fitted new HB ones all round and still popped one off on the first jump in my final when I landed at an angle. ARGH. Someone told me about the reinforced ball cups which are supposed to be better than the kit items so I've made it my mission to get those on the car next. |
Just put some Losi whites (like Hupo) or RPM ball cups on. The Tamiya ones are made from a plastic that is too soft for the job.
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Alternative to pivot balls
Has anyone tried DuBro captured ends yet?
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Any recomendation for Ceramic Diff Balls that will fit the TRF501x ball diffs? Any brand and item in particular?
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Also for the debate on the 87 spur. I felt like it moved the motor back enough to take away some steering. WIth the lipo pack you need to move as much weight back as possible. I don't like adding weight like lead strips so I prefer the smaller spur. Plus it takes out some of the sharp spikes to the belts because you loose the leverage. Just my .02 |
Jimmy, RPM ball ends, I absolutly swear by them. I use the short (AE style) black ones on all my cars and they never ever fall off!
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Yokomo ZC 207HD Rod ends
I use to run the RPM rod ends and the Losi HD ones... but I have found that the Yokomo HD ones are Very strong!!!!:cool::woot: and plus they are very cheep to boot;)
http://www.rcspeedshop.ne.jp/oscomme...s/ZC-207HD.jpg |
anyone know where i could get 501x screw kit? thx
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The other ones are as follows Speedtech R/C $64.99 - USA CHAMP ¥2,940- Japan |
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