Very nice looking cars Bormac.

Do you or Jeroen have other good setup tips that go especially with the racing Cougars? For example it seems you are using C1 style "straight" front wishbones in few of the cars. Is this performance related decision?

Thankyou for the compliment.

As with all the schumacher buggies changes were made between models for a reason. Its taken me years to work alot of it out as there is no real source to go to when wondering which parts suite a particular application.

The original Cougar had the longer wheelbase which for me equates to better stabilty while the Cougar2 has a shorter wheelbase with its swept front arms. Then there are the rear arms. There are few options available which range from the LWB through to Medium and even Short wheelbase aswell as the works arms which are somewhere in the middle.

I usualy look at the track i want to drive on and then establish how tight the cornering might be and thats a good start. Then i consider what motor class i want to run and this ends up as part of my decission along with the tyres I have on hand or what works at the track best.

Im far from an expert but just try thinking a bit about what i want from the car and the best way to go about getting it.

My Topcat setup.

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...CSTOPCAT-1.jpg

At the latest vintage meeting a fortnight ago in the mud!

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...an20cougar.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...c/_MG_0355.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...c/_MG_0345.jpg

My latest Topcat/Cougar in full flight!

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...tleHill3-4.jpg

I don't know which diff you got .

For the cougar 1 and procat there were superdiffs available with the alloy outdrives.(18mm hex diff)
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...6/PICT0206.jpg




And for the cougar 2 there were the pro diffs .(23mm diff)

look here at the first picture http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_m...50959&id=15092

Thanks for the link. The instructions you provided reviled that the diff really is Cougar 2 pro diff. I have to later test if the alloy parts are compatible with the Club 10 diff on my runner.

http://www.oople.com/forums/attachme...1&d=1273676948

vintage diffs
 

Wow, you learn a lot when maintaining these old cars... especially from guys like Jeroen and Jason. The disc springs were missing from both the Bosscat manual and pro-diff instructions. I use them in all my diffs like it said in my old Procat manual. Thing is the vintage manuals all say arrange them like so )) but other manuals e.g. SX show )()( very confusing?? Can anyone also tell me if the washers should be glued to the alloy carriers in the pro diff?

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...iffwashers.jpg

No glue.

diff washers
 

Thanks Jason, so the friction is enough to keep the plates from slipping?

btw I'm also looking for some rear procat rims. I can trade some nip fronts if you like.

Yeah the plates dont need glue.

I have some new in pack fronts also. Wish I had some rears myself. :D

disc springs
 

This article may be of some interest re. disc springs

http://www.rctek.com/technical/fixin...e_washers.html

The Schumacher website shows the Procat rears to be in stock

U225 Rear Wheel - 2.15 (pr) £4.99 (inc vat)

Unable to call them to check stock as it is sunday.

disc springs
 

Hey Jason, look at these old instructions. It says NOT to fit disc springs. How shabby! Do you use the disc springs from the original (procat) kit or the larger ones from the U857 diff screw kit? These seem stronger - they have the same external diameter as the thrust bearing. If you use these you can't fit the plastic shield over so I see why you use the foam thingy. Did you make it?

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...fassembly1.jpg

This is from the procat manual. Schumacher told me this is correct i.e. (( but I'm inclined to go with seeing as you're the king of vintage runners!

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...ldiffbuild.jpg

Yeah the spring washers are a MUST. Sometimes I use the wider ones as they seem a lot stronger but you'll
have trouble getting them under the plastic cap. That's why
I use the foam ring to try and keep the dust away from the thrust race. This is equaly as important as the thrust plates when dirty make the diff action quite notchy.

Any reason the spring washers are placed )) instead of ()? I thought that they were supposed to be in the latter configuration for best effect.

It's confusing isn't it. I understand the disc springs are there to maintain the force on the diff washers as the parts wear out. I wonder does this also keep the pressure (and therefore diff action) consistent if there are uneven spots on the washers or carriers?

Jason's been racing CATs for years so I'm going to try his way )()(

It also gives the same instrcutions in the new CAT SX manual.

The plastic cap doesn't over the larger disc springs so I'll put a bit of foam like Jason does.

I would also sand the diff plates with 600/800 grit wet and dry on a flat surface e.g. glass table, use ceramic balls e.g. Abec35.com and maintain the thrust bearing well. Thrust bearing sthis size are difficult to get hold of because the old axles were 1/8 diameter, which is just over 3mm, which is more common. Even one I bought from Schumacher, only one of the thrust plates fit. I had to buy two and use the larger plate from both.

I just ordered this one...

http://www.abec35.com/Thrust-Ball-Be...duct_info.html

Foam doughnuts
 

Any tips on how to make the little foam doughnuts?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Associated-Foam-...item4aa124d4cf

Wow, quick reply. Thanks Jeroen!

Anyone got some new Procat driveshafts :)