It must be your threadlock that isn't suited to this use, I've never used the Loctite stuff so I dont have a point of reference.

You don't really have to start adding thrust bearings and locknuts to make it work, I use the Associated factory team locking compound and it works perfectly (the blue stuff in the grey bottle), try some of that and see how it goes :)

stating the obvoius

The head of the screw is toward the front of the car and the nut to the rear. so as it accelerates it does not try to undo it self.

blue

haivng said that, is there not more 'force' when you jab the brakes in the air to get the nose down, the wheels stop pretty much instantly.

I hope you go forward with the stick more than rearward with the stick chris:D :confused:

if I want the nose down on a jump I get on the brakes hard. :D

and the rest of the track?:rolleyes:

FULL BORE! :o

So it will tighten up eghhhhhhhhhh

Lov you see you soon:)

:rolleyes:

what's the part # for the T-Nut?

Anyone tried putting a 'kink' in the end of the diff-screw like Yokomo used to do on the works 91/93? (They may even do it on present day cars but I haven't had 1 for years.)

this it ?


http://www.m-k-racing.com/images/JC1133.jpg

I was just looking for the nut :p

Thats the baby, its only about $7 i thnk for that kit, worth every penny too!!

7$ how dare you, support your LHS, unless your State Side :mad: :mad: :)

£4.95 & ordered from MK Racing in the UK, who advertise on this site :cool:

I hate to say this since I love the car, but it is maybe worth every penny, but it is a pain in the A** to keep it from loosening.

My problem is still not solved even though I have a new original Locktite 2701 thread locker...
The screw still unscrews it self after just a couple of battery packs.

I am frustrated and sad about this problem I can not seem to resolve and if anyone comes up with a rock solid way of permamently fixing this will earn a star in my book...

I have got the tip already to:
1. Bend the screw a little on the part that is inside the metal T-nut
2. thread lok the nut by using a needle to apply the compound all the way inside the metal T-nut
3. When cured (to be on the safe side, 24hrs) use thin CA on the end of the T-nut to further aid the thread locking compound.

I have yet to try all three tips at once, but for me it will be the next step. I am however on a business trip at the moment, but will do this as soon as I am back home.

I will let you know what my experience will be when using the combination of these three.

//DaHomie

Have you got one of the team drivers racing near you, maybe you could ask one of them to have a go at rebuilding the slipper next time you're at a meeting together?

Pop jason an email, he offered to rebuild my slipper if i sent it to him to get it spot on. he would probably do the same for your self.. its worth a try!

Richard: I am sorry but I do not have that opportunity. I can bring it to the euros though so that you can have a crack at it :-)

Paul: Thanks for the tip I think I will do just that.

//DaHomie

I have had these for a few months now, when the only place you could get stuff from was JConcepts

Use the RED thread lock, set the slipper, then allow it to sit over night. If you only allow the threadlock to dry, it wont cure, and the bond will NOT be permanent. Just a tip...

Andy, what red thread lock?

//DaHomie