Try my seup from the Euros - its listed in the manual.

Si

I guess your Simon Moss...i'ts a pleasure. I'm goining to do that this weekend, I also found a couple other of your setups on the web that I'm going to try. I got two questions if you don't mind. how do you adjust the lenght of the shock, do I simply unscrew the ball joint or do I change the shaft. And how would I limit bottoming out?

Thanks
Bill

I can answer this one - use longer ballcup cut to length you need - unscrewing isn't safe as you are risking stripping thread in ballcup.

You wouldn't happen to have a part number would you?

U2989Ball Grippa Sockets - (pk 8)

Found it here

http://www.racing-cars.com/main.asp

Don't be hard on yourself there Bill,when you get this car setup right you will love it.Keep in mind it was only your first race there.When i took your car for a spin there i found your camber was out of wack now everyones setup should suit there driving style of course.Im sure if you took my cat sx for a spin you would hate the feeling of it.but for me it works great and as you know im always tweaking something but one change at a time.when you take the car for a first run don't focus how fast you will go but how you can get around the track without crashing and picking up the pace from there.

Dennis
Cat SX
Cougar SV (Soon)
B44
B4

Thanks David I ordered some, and alot of other spare parts:cry:

This is my friend I race with, I am the paduwan and he is the jedi night. After taking the car out for the first time getting used to it and my initial setup, he decide my setup sucked right before the first qualifier and changed everything. After that everything started to go south. The next time you come near my car Denis I might bite your finger, and not gentle like.

I will defeat you my master!!!

Don't worry...You'll find I catch on real fast

Good job:thumbsup:

I have been driving the Cat for over a year and still finding little set-up changes, with the help of my masters Moss and Williams:thumbsup:

I just got my replacement bits for the cat and noticed the front pivot blocks are alot beefier, they are also with 4m srews up from 3m. Do you think I still need the brace from stegger?

I'm still alittle unsure about what oil to use in the shocks, Mr. Moss uses thinner weight in the front and lighter in the back, but I'm afraid of bottoming out my front end. What should I do?

Give that set up a try that I mailed ya
My kitty is real comfortable to drive

Make sure your motor is close to center belt and lipo is as close to center as possible

after you break the stock arms ....try the med flex....if they still break easy .... put the arms in boiling water for 10 or 15 min.......that will make em flex

That's what I'm doing, your setup and moss's are almost the same exept for the 12.5 front steering blocks and the oil. It's the lighter oil in the front that I don't understand. I used 40 in the front my first race and bottomed out heavily, going to 25 will probably make it worse.

Oh ok

I can see your point about the thinner oil

I'd say don't go with the 25 oil. I've tried it and could never stop the car bottoming out. I found a switch to 350cst made a huge difference, even though that only works out to 30W in most brands. This was running 3 hole pistons and cut diaphragms. If its big, big jumps you would probably want to go with something like 400 or 450 cst.

It could just be that the brand Simon is using works out a bit thicker than some other brands of 25W.

The front brace is awesome - I'd class it as a necessity if you are on the M3 front screws. With M4 you should get away with more impacts - but only time will tell.

I ordered the braces from Stegger and some other parts from Schumacher America right before they closed, the medium wishbones were in that order. Stegger I'm not worried about but I have a little concern for the American order, I hope it didn't get lost in the transition. I ordered from the UK and recieved the parts in two days...stunning service.

I use Schumacher oil, but the track that setup is designed didnt have any big jumps. To be honest I would stiffen the sping first rather than go up on the oil - you need it to be reasonably soft to generate the grip.

Si

Your absolutely right, I raced today and had very little front traction. I had Losi 40 oil and shumacher grey rear spings up front and traction over the bumpy sections was almost non existant. The rear was great with shumacher yellow springs and 30 Losi oil. Only broke one front wisbone today, witch is a good thing. The only recurring problem was the servo arm striped on me a couple of time. The first one was original, the second was a original but not for my servo so that stipped too, the third lasted me the main. I'm figuring to go with a aluminium servo arm but not sure if it will damage the servo, my futaba servo has a aluminium spocket so aluminium on aluminium isn't the ideal senario. Does Sumacher or anyone else make a servo saver arm for the lipo setup?

Do you have ballstud in top or bottom hole on your servo arm?

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