Cut a hole in the bodyshell? Oh man, that's lame.

Who's got a vacuformer handy then?

i happen to know of someone who is working on a shell to fit as we speak so will post details as soon as i get them including a pic

Let me know about that when you have some info also mate, as I might be reviewing the conversion soon.

shall do jim its one of our local model shops who has just got a vac forming machine to play with it gets wired in this week and the mold is already made so i will post pics n stuff to ya to get them online

That would be awesome if you did Jimmy. I almost pulled the trigger on one of these the other day, but decided to wait and see what others said about it first:)

Brad

BTW for the yanks, SpeedTech RC has these things in stock in blue right now

http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=482&id=6029

Brad

I am reviewing the conversion for Speedtech RC now, well, when a couple of parts arrive that I broke (hubs) oops.

Any idea when shells might be around niggs ? I cant use my old shell for the conversion (its "knackered" ) I have a brand new one - but it'd be a shame to cut up a brand new shell and make it look a bit poor - so this shell would be ideal to use in the review.

Hi Guys,

I bought the KMC conversion and here's my first impressions before the build...

1.) You will need to buy an extra stock layshaft kit that comes with the extra outdrive cup (the same one thats used for the slipper assembly drive cup).

2.) The conversion is NOT compatible with the shaft one-way bearing assebly. This kit is solid shaft only. Unfortunately, they don't tell you that or show this part of the car in any way.

3.) The countersunk holes on the bottom of the chassis were not countersunk deep enough, and the head sticks out by a .25mm or so.

4.) The center top plate (the aluminum bulkhead cap) is a VERY tight fit...some might say a little too aggresive with the annodizing....

5.) They don't include the correct size screws for the battery straps...they SAY it is supposed to be an 8mm long m3 cap, but they include only the 16mm long caps and some 12mm long philips caps....no 8mm's.

6.) The graphite is very nice though..

7.) The anodizing is spot on Kyosho blue!

8.) The CVD's only have one set of pin holes (unlike, say, a Mugen MBX5 cvd's where they have another set of holes once the originals get worn)...i guess you can drill your own set but...

9.) Still pissed about the shaft one-way thing...

Anyway, let hope the rest of the build goes smoothly...i will update with any additional findings...

Thanks CrimeWave, Keep us updated:)

Brad

lazer
 

cant you use the one diff assembly

I could, but Ive been down that road before....and it was not a pretty road!

I had terrible luck without the front diff installed. On power steering was a NIGHTMARE! I dont race on open grass fields...i race on a tight, indoor, large jump track.

But, I guess i will have to try now, or switch to the solid shaft and front diff (which shouldnt be too bad)...

here it is!
 

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y75.../IMG_20751.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y75.../IMG_20761.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y75.../IMG_20801.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y75.../IMG_20771.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y75.../IMG_20781.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y75.../IMG_20811.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y75.../IMG_20821.jpg

Car is SUPER stiff and should do real well on hard-packed tracks....if you run in the bumpy stuff, i would stickwith the stock chassis, which has some flex.

Also note the front aluminum hubs (Kenon Hobbies) and the rear pivot blocks, also Kenon.

Gonna test this thing soon, so stay tuned!

Good stuff.. Im still building mine, looks good so far tho. The carbon is all very nice.

also, news from a reliable source says that KMC are working on the center dogbone to use the center one-way...praise!

Looks great Man. Where are you located? You in the states?

Brad

I saw that they will make 1 dog bone and cvd can use the center one-way!!!!

yep, im in the U.S.

Track i race on is www.rcexcitement.com and www.glowplug.com....

RCE is indoor, where this car spends most of its time...still trying to acquire some sort of protection for the chassis underside...may have to go to the BJ4WE stuff...

How are you mounting the rear of the shell on the converted car ? I managed to find a way to mount the front body mounts without the suggested 20mm screws and nuts (because I didnt have any) but no idea about the rear..

I do have a body post on from the ZX5 kit which wasnt used on the ZX5 at all, but it needed drilling to fit- not ideal for everyone..
since im doing a review on the conversion I'd just like to know the best / easiest way for people to mount the shells / cut them out etc..

So, anyone have any suggestions ?

if you look at the pics of the one from southport jim im sure he uses the standard lazer battery posts with a small spacer to get the required height

Cheers mate

did those extra ones come in the kit ? should i have a look on the discarded parts trees on my floor ? :rolleyes: