They have just cahnged the RC8 shocks to emulsion shocks.... ;)

I know which o-rings I like :rolleyes:

I have drilled my AE shock caps just to blead them :D

G

Thanks Northy,

But for emulsioned socks type with drilled cup, it's a nightmare to drill the perfect hole.

On yokomo cups the hole ends perfectly on cups bottom (more space to screw and better to not leak oil from mini-screw)

If you drill a little more big hole or you not end hole on just cups bottom, risk to leak is high.

I am looking for a photo/video (drill cups perfect hole - home made) making off.

Also pictures or video how to fill oil in this type of shock and how to bleeding it rigth. I think it's not the same as asso manual, cause I think shaft position when fill and bleeding is different.

Any volunteer? :D

PD: Asso is forgetting its users. See HB manuals or Tips on its web page. Also its drivers offers support on one know forum.

When you remove the seals does this damage the little clip that holds all in place? Do you just push all the seals out from the body or is there a technique to their removal?

thanks, john

Get the AE shock building tool fron the bottom of the shock at a slight angle and push the clip bit out then replace o rings then click it back togertehr again.

A

cool, thanks ash.

Does any one know where or can anybody make a vid and throw it on You tube how to bleed theese F***ing shocks so that the travel is correct and there is no air in them.

ta :p

its imposible not to get air in there,the only way you could get all oil and no air would be to do it submerged in oil,you have to mix the oil with the air by pumping the piston,also iv found you get more air in there doing it by the manual,it says to pull the piston all the way down then undo the cap,all this does is suck more air in,i find it better to push the piston up slowly as you undo the cap,put the cap on tight see how far the shaft comes out,if its to far push the shaft,undo the cap and keep the shaft pressed in untill a bit of oil come out,do the cap up tight and it should come out less,if its to far do it again,
all i can say is it workes for me and the shocks are smooth and all the same,

Why oh why do 10th scale not use the same shock designs as their larger 1/8th scale brothers ?

vcs2 upgrade kit
 

i found this on the ae forum, works a treat :) http://www.aeforums.co.uk/forum/inde...t=&#entry18600

I bought that VCS2 upgrade kit but it didnt fit on my B4 shock bodies. Fitted on my TC4 bodies though, so im confused! I thought the threads on the AE bodys were all similar? Or do i have a dodgy set of B4 bodies??

Ben

Been thinking of changing my to Losi shocks after finding my rear shocks not pushing out properly last night. I find the AE shocks a nightmare to build :(

i find ae shocks so easy to do, if anyone wants theres doing, or me to show them how to come see me at tallywain,

They are easy to build, but they arn't anywhere near as easy/consistant as Losi shocks.

Dont seem to have a problem with AE shocks now.. think it just takes practice...

Ben

As Ben has said I always found them quite easy to build, Losi shocks are easier and a little more consistant to build but I think the ae shocks do work better on the B4.

They are supposed to have some air in them mixed with the oil.

There are two main shock types.

1. Emulsion shocks - these mix air and oil to allow the shock rod to move in to the shock.

2. Bladder / diaphagm shocks - these keep the air and oil separate with a membrane (bladder)

AE and LOSI shocks are both emulsion shocks

I'm switching to Losi shocks this week, so will let you know how I get on and will do a comparision between the two. I am crap at these things thou (IT Techie, but crap engineer!)