Lol if the slipper was supposed to be top secret how come he told everyone about it ? Or didn't say it was such a big secret.

Something to do with the pin being placed infront of the Slipper?
What is the benifits & improvements running this on the car.

Just I'm in the process having mine built, is it worth doing this straight away or try kit first

Thanks

We run the car with the pin, it makes the slipper like a normal slipper, if you don't have the pin in, the front and rear driveshafts are independant and the level of slip depends on the pad you're running, with the white pad slipping before the red one. Having it fixed makes the car easier on power.

LOL ... SHin never told me to keep that under my hat (not that there is a lot of room under there with all my hair ....)

To be fair, all I said was it is going to be a great addition to an already near perfect chassis!!! :thumbsup:

I want one, I want one noooooooowwwwwwwwwwwwww:cry:

Carlin, as for the "direct" or pinned slipper set up give the car a go in it's stock form and if you feel that you need a lot more rear end then lock slipper to direct mode, if you just want a bit then go with the normal separate arrangement but with a pair of white pads (so the two ends of the car are still independant but have the same nominal rate of slip).

I personally feel that having the slipper in direct mode gives too much rear end grip for my liking, I prefer the car in separate mode but with matched (white) pads in place.

The Kyosho cars are the most tunable out there, not much we can't do other than front inner hinge pin width .. watch this space on that too;) ) but to be fair the box stock set-up is a good starting point. Only thing I am suggesting to people is if they like a smoother car start with the 10deg castor blocks and I prefer silver #70 front springs to the kit yellows.
Other than that it's a one box car, buy build, race, smile:thumbsup::thumbsup:

The prototype car has all the beautiful red alloy. Will the new kit come in that color or will it just stay blue?

Thats unique to Shin! ive already asked the question... unfortunatley no was the answer :(

Cheers

Nick

The new slipper is a bit more clever than just a pin in and out affair.
Shin did try to explain but as far as i could guess it has drive on power and acts like a one way off.
Im not really sure on the exacts but it was something he was quite pleased about!!

can´t tell any diffrences to the `óld´ one because i don´t know it , but it looks ace specially with the red aloy!

a pin in and out affair.. i have bad issues with the rear being loose on power.. can someone elaborate on this?

also, anyone notice, on the front, for the steering, he is using set screws or something instead of button head screws.. whats that about??

Can you link to the picture you mean please as I'm not sure what part of the car your refering to with the screws

The theory is thus ...

Slipper in separate mode allows front and rear to react separately and by using pads with different nominal coefficients of friction (red is grippier than white) you can bias which end the power goes to in preference.

Red in front = more front drive, red in rear = more rear drive

Direct (pin in) mode locks the front and rear together to make it feel more like a conventional 4wd, gives even power delivery to both ends of the car and just one slipping point.

The though is this, direct makes the car feel more "normal 4wd" and gives a more reward balance on power.

My preference is separates but matched pads, that gives the advantages of letting the end with more traction still get the largest % of drive BUT tends to an even balance over all so if both have the same level of traction the car will drive 'normally'.

It is worth playing with, direct mode makes the car feel too dead and locked in at the rear compared to the separate mode ... some will prefer that but I think one of the key points that makes the FS top of the tree is the slipper ... although all, including Shin, will admit you have to experiment to get what suits you but when you do :thumbsup::woot:

How's that work then? The D4 Worlds had the same type of slipper and when I played about with it it worked just like an open diff, in that it transfered the most drive to the end that had the least drive as it was easier.....

G

I am not sure as I would expect what you suggest G' but I can assure you that on the track you can definitely feel the front of the car dig in and grip as you jump on the throttle even though it should in theory have the least tire load. I think the signifcant difference is that the FS doesn't transfer anywhere near as much weight rearwards, it certainly doesn't "squat" when you punch it (this was always what I was fighting with the BJ4/B44/D4 style cars weight distribution ... not checked it absolutely but in hand the FS feels similar to a saddle Pred with NiMhs in .. should really corner weight the car shouldn't I).

I am not familiar with the set-up on the D4 but the FS assembly has no thrust race or similar in place ... answers on a post card

I know the prototype will not change material-wise as far as the chassis goes but did you bring up the CF chassis question anyway?

Kyosho would do a moulded chassis for the off-road cars as it's the best solution to the problem;

1) keeps dirt out
2) flexes a bit so makes the car more forgiving but can easily be stiffened up if requried
3) can take knocks without the risk of delaminating etc.
4) can have any angled / cureved features as part of it reducing part count.

I have always thought that an off-road car isn't finished until it has a moulded chassis on it ... flat carbon is fine for prototypes as it so easy to mock up and modify but if your going to sell them by the truck load ... well the mould tool makes a lot of sense!

Kind of reminds me of tamiya's double slipper for the DB01 54061.

any thoughts on th price range of this new lazer

http://img28.imageshack.us/img28/3595/kyoshoshoot1.jpg


Shins new body. Hot... So MP9